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Author Topic: RWS 350 Magnum Disassemble  (Read 3483 times)
Bhawanna
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« on: February 20, 2008, 03:53:14 AM »

Ok, I will show how ignorant I am with air rifles.  I have never taken one apart so I wanted to ask someone before I took the wrong bolt out and everything flew into the air.  How do I remove the gun from the stock?  this is a new gun but feels and sounds very dry (crunchy)when cocking.  I wanted to remove and put a drop of oil on the piston to see if that would help.  has anyone else had this problem with a new RWS?

thanx,

bhawanna
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longislandhunter
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« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2008, 04:04:12 AM »

I've read that RWS rifles can be very dry out of the box.  I have 2 of em and haven't had that problem, but I do recall reading posts from others that mention their new RWS rifles being bone dry inside.   I'm sure some of the others will chime in......

Jeff
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« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2008, 04:06:54 AM »

First, wait a bit.  Shoot at least 500-1000 rounds thru the gun before you decide it needs anything at all.  Using regular oils on this gun will cause it to diesel violently (detonate), which can and will damage the gun, and could very well be dangerous/deadly to you.  Add no lubes to a spring gun unless you KNOW what you're doing.  Oil will do nothing to reduce the "crunchyness" you feel in your new gun.  Breaking it in with much shooting will.  A professional tune by someone knowledgable would too, but that's much more than a few drops of oil here and there.

Ok, that's out of the way....

You can remove the action from the stock with 3 screws.  The 2 at the front of the forarm, and the front trigger screw.  In fact, you probably should remove these, clean'em really well with alcohol and put them back in with blue locktite on the threads.  This will prevent them from vibrating loose during use, causing inaccuracy.  After that, check them for tight occasionally anyway.  Without locktight, they can and WILL come loose, and this will lead to random inaccuracy.

Don't attempt to disassemble your gun any further than this, and only go this far only if it's un-cocked.  Attempting to disassemble the powerplant without knowledge and a spring compressor will likely result in at very least several broken fingers, and very likely much worse.  Even uncocked, the spring in your 350 is very much compressed, maybe as much as 100 pounds.  It can punch thru walls, or your head.

Read, read, research and learn about springgun tuning before you even think of doing this.  Just using the gun will give you many of the benefits of a good tune without the risk you're contemplating.

Play and shoot safe!

J
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daved
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« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2008, 04:50:32 AM »

But I've got to disagree with you here.  First, the preload on the spring in the 350 isn't 100 pounds, maybe half that.  And second, RWS guns are notorious for being shipped practically devoid of lubrication.  Yes, doing some research first is necessary, and caution is always required when working with springs under compression.  But a simple lube job isn't rocket science, and scaring the hell out of people isn't helpful.  

I strongly suggest a good spring compressor, either purchased or home built.  There are plans all over the place.  If you build one, allow for plenty of stroke, the preload is pretty long.  I also recommend buying a lube kit from Macarri before opening the gun up, basic info on what goes where is on his site.  But this is one gun that I don't agree with the "shoot it for awhile first, then tune" advice.  There was a huge difference in the way it shot after I lubed mine.  And all I did was lube it, the internals looked pretty good.  But it was practically bone dry, just lubing it greatly reduced the spring twang, vibration and torque.  It was still a bear to shoot, and it definitely cured me of springer magnumitis.  I've since moved on to PCP's, and the 350 had a lot to do with that move.  But a good lube job was very worthwhile, I just wish I'd done it right out of the box.  If you can afford a pro tune, great, but just doing a good lube on these guns makes a huge difference.  And it's a difference that I don't believe can be matched by "just shooting it".  Just my opinion, hope it helps.  Later.

Dave
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CharlieDaTuna
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« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2008, 05:50:56 AM »

I agree with everything that Dave said and also disagree with almost everything that Jason said. (Sorry Jason) Waiting to lube it will do nothing to improve it and if not lubed, the spring vibration and it's harmonics can possibly cause early spring failure. Also, it causes wear on both the inner piston, which is not important really and also the outer spring and possibly on the action wall if the spring is heavily canted. Also, the preload on the uncocked spring isn't a hundred pounds but if it gets away from you, you will think so and can be very dangerous to body and soul ... and you will use a bunch of words that you normally don't use.

A lube tune will resolve some issues and as Dave said, and not something that requires a great deal of expertise and not really very dangerous (but can be) providing the correct tools are used along with some care and a bit of horse sense. It is also very important to use the correct amount of the correct lubes in the correct places. A spring compressor is required though for the disassembly of any springer as far as I'm concerned. Many people have been injured, some seriously by not using one.

That said, a lube tune can never take the place of a full tune with everything beburred, resurfaced and fitted spring and spring guides and tophat  along with all of the other tricks of the trade.
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« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2008, 06:38:38 AM »

it can take a while to find everything in the library, i am still finding great ideas and info, here are a few links i hope will help get you started

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/Mod.350MAG_TO5.pdf

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/library/Oiling%20Spring%20Airguns.htm

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/library/all%20about%20lubricants.htm

http://www.kermitairgunclub.com/airguntips/compressor/

fin
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bwgstock
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« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2008, 03:16:21 PM »

Here are a couple of pictorial guides of other guns that may be helpful to review (the first link will be very relevant since the Diana 34 and 350 have similar designs):

http://web.mac.com/photomark/iWeb/Airgun%20Adventures/Diana%20RWS%2034%20Spring%20Upgrade.html

http://home.comcast.net/%7Escot_for_sale/guns/RWS48_tune/index.html

http://www.network54.com/Forum/479035/thread/1157402298/CFX+rebuild+-+long+-+pics

I recently built a spring compressor (using my car jack!) and disassembled my Diana 350. I was surprised at how little tension there was in the preload of the spring -- surprised because most of what I read suggested lots of tension. That said, it is still better to use a spring compressor to hold everything in place.

P.S.

Here's an exploded view of the 350 parts in case something goes wrong -- you will need to contact Umarex to get a factory replacement part; or contact some craftsmen on this forum for nonfactory parts.

http://www.pyramydair.com/schematics/rwsmodel350.asp
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Bryan G.
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