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Some scrap leather, soaked in water overnight. A piece of MDF
board with a 1 1/8" hole drilled in it, and a socket. The
leather is about 1/8 inch thick
I rubbed the MDF board with silicone oil, then
pounded the socket down ino the leather til I got about 1/4 inch
depth, then cut off the excess with the razor saw.
Let the whole thing dry
overnight, or if you're in a hurry, bake it in the oven at 250
for an hour or
so.
Sorry for the crappy pics, my
digital doesn't like close-ups. |
The leather is about 1/8 inch thick. From what I've learned about
leather pump cups, they're theoretically supposed to be full grain, with
the smooth side out.
But I just bought a bag of leather scraps at the local craft store, and
used the thickest piece in the bag, which was a split, meaning it has
suede on both sides.
The great thing about leather seals is that they conform, and "shoot
in." I put one of these home-made jobs in the refurbished Wischo, and it
actually dieseled for the first 50 or so rounds, so I know I'm getting
good compression. It later settled down to nice shots with a light haze
left in the barrel, a sign of GOOD combustion in a leather seal gun.
Not such good luck with the Lucznik (oops, unintentional pun.) I'm
pretty sure you have to have just the right size and stiffness of filler
inside the cup. I was able to reuse the original mystery orange washers
on the Wischo, but in the Lucznik, I used a plastic plumbing washer, and
I think I'm getting some blow-by, or I could still have breach seal
issues. Regardless, the velocity seems low, and there's no indication of
combustion, despite a good dose of silicone oil on the seal prior to
reassembly.
If one were so equipped, one could drill a more precisely sized hole in
the mold (piece of wood) then find the tightest socket to fit. Myself, I
was limited to 1", 1 1/8", and 1 1/4" hole saws. 1 1/8" seemed the best
compromise.
James Grossman |
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