By Howie1a

VARNISHING A GUN STOCK

Here is the procedure……. It does some take time and effort and you can end up applying about 12 coats, with sanding between the coats. However, there are some short cuts that can be taken and this is the procedure using those short cuts.

Start out by sanding off all the old finish. I use a 4x4 sander with 100 grit paper, than I wipe the bare wood stock with alcohol. This will raise some fine wood fibers.  Now remove those firers by hand sanding using 180 grit paper.

The next step is to cover anything you don't want stained like the butt plate and white spacer with blue painters tape. It comes off without leaving adhesive behind unlike tan masking tape.  I leave the butt plate on when sanding so they end up fitting perfect.

Now you can stain the stock. I use oil stain. I stain using a rag to apply the stain.  If you happen to get it too dark you can always take thinners and wash out some of the stain to make it lighter or if needed you can also apply more stain on if you want it darker. (Once you varnish the stock the only way you can make it darker is to use a varnish stain. It's varnish with stain in it.

There are different ways of varnishing. A wiping varnish is put on with a rag always wiped in one direction if possible. It does take several coats to get a desired finish with wiping varnish. Wiping varnish is a varnish mixed with 1 part varnish and 2 parts of thinner.  I also sometimes use varnish in spray cans and one can will do 1 stock.

 I hang the stock using a wire hanger and spray one coat do not pause or get to close just a nice even coat wait 1 hr. and check if it is just dry to the touch. What we are doing is building 4 coats and catching the window that will allow us apply to multiple coat without sanding between the coats. We will apply 4 coats and let the stock dry at least one day and preferably 2 days.

The next step would be to sand the stock with 400 grit paper. You can now remove the blue tape and the additional coats will leave the butt plate with a nice finish.

Wipe down the stock so it is clean.  I use alcohol.  Now apply 4 more coats the same as before.  Again, let it dry for at least one day and again preferably two.

Once again sand with 400 grit paper. The objective of all these coats of varnish and the sanding between the coats are to fill the pores of wood with varnish.  When sanding the stock it will have a white power look with tiny spots. You do not want to have any spots or your final coat will look like your stock was coated in plastic.

Wipe the stock down and blow out any places that may hold dirt or dust like the screw holes. Wipe it down again and finally wipe it down using a tack rag.  Now spray 1 full coat come back in 1 hr and spray another coat and possibly an additional coat if needed.

If the stock looks good you can stop and let it dry overnight. Once thoroughly dry, you can use lemon oil and pumice or rottenstone to make a light compound and lightly rub down the stock. Care must be taken here because if you take it too far or get overly aggressive, you can turn the gloss into a semi gloss finish.  The objective is to make a nice smooth finish on the stock.

I used to work in a boat yard and this is the way we used to varnish million dollar boats varnish at $65.00 per hr. varnish work is expensive.

You will need a 4x4 sander , varnish,stain,100 grit paper,180 grit paper, 400 grit paper , blue making tape, lemon oil ,pumice, tack rag, alcohol I think this covers it, If you damage your finish you can always just re-sand it with 400 and re spray it ,

Hint: If you use Minwax brand spray varnish, you can turn the spray nozzle and get a horizontal spray and that works better for me.

Howie1a