GTA
General Discussion To Gateway To Airguns => The Shop => : kiwi November 15, 2008, 03:59:12 PM
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Hi..Thought it was about time I done up the stock on my
moded B11 but after I spent ages sanding I found it has a big
crack in it they have tryed to repair it at the factory but it looks
like it will brake at some stage.
I thought of putting 2 scews in it and painting it with a camo job.
Think vanish is out.
Have a look and see what yer think can be done
"I went out and bought a dremmal to put some grip in it before the
vanish" Bugger
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I've seen where people have used hardwood dowels and epoxy to fix things like that. I'm not really a wood guy, I think Howie is though.
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Dowels is a great idea..no filler in the holes so will still be able to vanish THANKS.
Me and wood an't on first name terms. give me metal anyday
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Peter, from the way it looks, you should be able to put dowels, or screws in from under the butpad.
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Dowels would be your safest bet. A good wood glue is excellent for bonding as well. Some epoxies will expand and will not come out looking so good and epoxy is harder to sand. Ya two dowels ought to do it just fine. Gene
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I would go from the bottom up to the comb and put 2 dowels in if you push them a little below the surface then put a wood plug in on top of the dowels you will not notice the repair it can be sanded and as long as the grain is going the same way it will not be noticeable. Epoxy's ore OK as well as white glue both are stronger than the wood, you will need to put a flat or cut in the dowel running lengthwise so the glue can squeeze out . ( don't use gorilla glue it keeps squeezing out and is hard to clean up.) howie
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I'd just fill it with superglue or thinned epoxy. It doesn't look like a critical area. Fill it full of sawdust if you superglue and it'll have some substance to the repair.
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I would use a 1/4" hardwood dowell thru the butt. Two if it makes you feel better.Use a good wood glue and sand a flat on one side or groove it with a razor knife so excess glue can get out.You may have trouble finding fluted dowells long enough.Be sure and clamp the stock because you may need to tap the dowell with a hammer to get it all the way in and it could finish the split.
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While not an expert at this, I like the dowlel- glue idea, dried in a vice over night.
Somebody mentioned super glue also. I use super glue, and baking soda to repair nicks in my ultralight propeller, and it has always held well.
Sands out perfectly shaped, but obvious
a little saw dust on top will help it disappear better
A black permanent marker, and light smearing with a palm of your hand will disguise the repair.
An ultralight propeller spinds at 3500 rpm, and an pushes a plane, and human though the air, so it is obviously tough enough for a rifle stock
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Thanks guys..Dowels and glue seems to be the go,
fingers crossed I don't stuff it up.
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The trick to removing the excess Gorilla/polyurethane glue is to let it cure completely, and then use a sharp scraper or knife to scrape off the excess. I've used it to repair split hardwood lumber and a couple of cracked stocks and it's very hard to detect when done correctly.
I've used CA and talc and CA and sawdust. Never tried CA and Bicarb Soda. Bondo is basicaly just polyester resin mixed with talc. CA/talc is a pretty commonly used repair agent for rigid thermosets such as SMC(modern automotive fiberglass).
The brass screw will give you a much stronger repair than the wood dowel. I've used that very method to repair and reinforce stocks. I used it this year to reinforce the wrist of my B40 stock.
I also used CA/talc as well as epoxy putty in that same stock. As soon as I stripped the original finish off it, I knew that a tung oil finish was out of the question. It got spray on bedliner.
You could go that route. It's cheap, easy, and very tough.
After you pilot drill your screw holes, you can counterbore the holes so the heads of the screws will be recessed, and then install plugs made of birch dowel.
You can cut the plugs off and rasp/sand them flush, if you want to use a varnish to finish it.
If you use polyurethane glue to fix the crack, be sure to clamp it firmly for about 4 hours to allow for a full cure.
A friend of mine made a stock from plywood and polyurethane glue. It turned out really nicely. And the polyurethane glue is waterproof, as well as being much stronger than the wood.
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Thanks Jaymo...I'm thinking of having it powder coated as they have low heat powders
for furnisher that only require 100 degrees to cure.
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Sweet, didn't know that. I like powder coat.