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General Discussion To Gateway To Airguns => The Shop => : cfxlongshot November 21, 2008, 03:12:06 AM
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I just opened my new RWS 350 and it seems to be dry inside. Can I lube it effectively without pulling the spring and stuff out? It's brand new and I dont want to take a chance scratching it. Should I stick a drop of crossman silicon oil in the transfer port also?
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You have to pull the hole thing apart to properly lube it. And never put any oil down the port . Even if the instructions say to do so.
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Phil is dead on, don't dump, pour or squeeze any lube into the action.:( it will end up migrating up to and in front of the piston seal and making thing's worse.:( Take her down and do a proper lube tune with the right lubes but a full tune is really the way to go. Ed
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...making a mix of 30wt ND oil and moly powder, about 50% or so, enough to make it really thick but still able to form drops.
I then put a few drops into the spring area, where it gets spread around and the moly eventually (theoretically) gets burnished into the metal. Unless the seal is seriously cut or loose, I don't think you'll have a problem with any harmful amount of oil getting in front of the seal. There will be a very light film left clinging to the walls as the seal wipes the lube back during the cocking stroke, but I've never had any gun object to this.
If there's a very thin layer of lube clinging to the walls, I believe it's possible that it won't combust at all. In order to burn effectively I think there needs to be enough lube to become atomized in free air.
Just my thoughts...
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Is that ND 30wt oil Slick 50? Can I get Moly powder at a local store or do I need to order it? Can I use Graphite powder??
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CFXlongshot...No it is not Slick50.Non Detergent 30W oil is on the Walmart shelves in the automotive section. As for moly powder, I would like to know where to get some myself. I use moly grease purchased from JM and from ebay( a loctite product).
I do something similar to Vince, just use ND 30W and moly grease mixed together till its nice and thick but will still run, or form a droplet out of a squeeze bottle...its just a littlethicker than the original ND30W. I put a few drops through the slot alongthe spring, let it sit for a few minutesand start shooting. After a whileI can smell the combustion...so I know its working right, but its not dieseling or detonating. There's no heavy smoke,there's no loud explosions, just the regular 350M sound.The key thing with this method is that only a few drops (3-4) are used, and less is better than more in this case. Velocity starts returningto its normal range, and consistency sets in a little later. I believe this is whats known as "controlled combustion", or at least as close as we are going to get to it in a properly functioning springer.
But its important to realize that I do this *after* my original lube where I took it all apart, cleaned, deburred, crosshatched the compression cylinder, lubed, checked or replaced the pistonseal, tarred the spring lightly...and that original combustion smell has gone away...meaning that it has used up its "fuel". That is likethousands of shots after the original lubejob.
There is no need to put anything into the transfer port. That is inviting detonation (been there done that). The "fuel" needs to come from behind the piston seal. The fuelclings to the crosshatch grooves/scratches on the compression cylinder walls. Thepiston seal acts as a wiper when traveling back in the cocking cycle, keeping any excess fuel from the firing/compression cycle. In a nutshell, the 350M needs just a little fuel to help it develop its magnum power. Anything flammable that you put into the transfer port is more than what sneeks past the piston seal, and itwill be ignited just like in a diesel engine...from the high compression alone. A resulting detonation can permanently damage a spring, break a spring, burn a piston seal, or even permantly change the shape of the cylinder (just to name a few). Or even worse...blow up!!!
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I found some lubricant I want to try. It has 25%moly 20%graphite and ?% of PTFE in a synthetic base. It has a temp range from -5 degrees to 600 degrees and Im going to mix it with 30wt nondetergent motor oil. I'm going to use it on my old Shadow 1K first to see how it works and I'll get back and give the results. I found some of that molygrease from loctite if this stuff turns up bad.
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In a silicon grease base not synthetic.
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http://www.tsmoly.com/index.html