GTA
General Discussion To Gateway To Airguns => The Shop => : kiwi November 23, 2008, 04:27:26 PM
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Disaster struck me today. Had pulled my one peice guide B11 apart
to check that it was holding togeather after 500 shoots "All good in there"
So it was time to put her togeather for the last time.
I have a carpeted table for working on the guns so I layed all the nice clean
bit out on it. then went to the shed to get the grease got back and desided
to lube the chamber up first. BUT when I picked it up and turned it over
WHAT THE HELL... A big patch of blueing was gone.
And then it stuck me I had used the table for anodizing & spilt some battrey acid
on it the day before. So after a LOT of swearing and a tantrum I desided
the best thing was to strip it totaly. So brushed battrey acid on it and in
less than a minute no more blueing.
So what the hell do I do with it now?...re-blue it / polish it & put a coat of clear on/
Or put it on a anvil and deal to it with a sledge hammer.
Maybe I can get it nickeled
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guess it depends on how much you want to spend on the gun.....reblue can be expensive if you have a gunsmith do it....there are "cold" kits you can buy but they are really made for touching up smaill areas....or you could take it apart and mirror polish it and have a "chrome" looking gun, or do a "camo" paint job on it....personnally, i would do the camo paint job since its not a very expensive gun.
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You will need to neutralize the acid or it will keep eating at the metal. A bath in hot alkali ( Draino) is best baking soda works but not as well. If you smell the metal & it smells funny the acid is still there. A hot lye bath is also a great way to clean the metal before blueing.
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Wonder how it would look Powder Coated matte black.......that would probably be the most economic
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Contact Ed Kryznowek. He has come up with a new bluing product that looks black like a factory job. Not blue like cold blue.
edward73@sbcglobal.net
Rob
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You may try heating the metal with a hair dryer in sections and reblue it with rebluer from wally-world,...once you get everything cleanned up first. Just a thought though, but it worked for me. Im not sure, but heating seems to help open the pores in metals allowing the blueing to adhere better than 'cold-blueing'. Best of Luck! tjk
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A whole rifle can be blued with a Cold Blueing solution. There's quite a few products that'll get the job done. I've been reblueing rifles & pistols for years with Perma Blue & Oxpho Blue.
Brownell's Oxpho Blue is GREAT stuff. Birchwood Case's Perma Blue is also good. I've also tried Blue Wonder Gun Black and it works just as good as Oxpho Blue. But for the price, Oxpho Blue the best next to hot salts blueing in my book.
I've got a write-up in the library section on blueing with BC Perma Blue. The same applies to Oxpho Blue.
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My vote is for Oxpho Blue. I've used for touch-up several times. I also used it to reblue a whole 1377 tube, it came out better than I thought it would. Prep is key. Just keep going over it until its a little darker than you want it, then oil it well for a day or two. I was pleased with it and would use it again.
Skip
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Dip it in that vinyl stuff for plier handles and screwdrivers! Bright yellow to remind you......
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There are some really cool looking finishes available at a ceramic coating shop. They protect against rust too. pretty durable as well. I did my VW turbo exaust system for about $150. they charge by the weight of the items being coated, so I would think that it would be probably in to $30-$50 range...just thinking out loud...
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Clean your bench......before you forget and sit on it.
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RedFeather - 11/26/2008 3:53 PM
Clean your bench......before you forget and sit on it.
Gee thanks Red .. You could have told me that before I tryed to use it..
SO IT ALL YOUR FOLT...LOL
layed it on its side and had the hose running over it for a hour or so.
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Hell, just parkerize it. You need phosphoric acid, distilled water, Manganese Dioxide?(the stuff in alkaline batteries, between the carbon core and the outer shell)
Dunk it in used Dexron ATF after parking. Plug the barrel BEFORE parking.
a fantastic hot blue can be achieved with nothing more than distilled water, lye, saltpeter(sodium OR potassium nitrate) and a heat source capable of maintaining a water temp of 285-305 degrees F for 30-60 minutes. Gives a deep black that is harder than the underlying steel. Don't even need to plug the barrel. It's wear and corrosion resistant.
All of you really should join the home gunsmithing forum. They have a gun and gunstock finish forum on there that applies just as much to air guns as it does to powder burners. After all, wood is wood. Metal is metal. When it comes to refinishing, it matters not whether it's propelled by air or by hot gas.
There's a dude over there who built a NICE 8 shot lever action .22 cal PCP rifle that Marlin and Browning would be PROUD to claim as their own. No Joke. He's also building a double barreled PCP rifle.
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Or you could use one of the spray on/bake on finishes from Brownell's or DuraKote.
How about giving the exterior a good coating of spray on bedliner. It's hell for tough.