GTA
General Discussion To Gateway To Airguns => Airgun Gate => : Gene_SC June 22, 2006, 08:47:10 AM
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As I mentioned in an earlier post about trying to keep scopes on my S1K. Here is a solution to my broken Scope.
This scope is a Accushot Model 168 Reticule Intensified Tactical Scope, Objective to Ocular - One Piece Tube.
This looks like a well made scope with heavy base that I thought would work great on my S1K. At the time I was have problems keeping scope mounts from moving from recoil. The S1K has no set pin hole in built in dove tail on barrel. I was using the Gamo stock stop to hold the mounts and scopes in place. Every mount I used would eventually kick off the Gamo scope mount.
Now I was new at air gunning at this point, reading and posting to get help on the forums. When I saw this scope on Pyramids Web Site, I thought this was my answer..... he he, but not hardly.
When I got the Scope in from Pyramid, I opened up the box and saw a one piece scope and mount set up. With big thumb head round nuts to tight the mount to the dove tail on the barrel. I figured with a new stop that I had purchase "heavy duty stop" and this set up the S1K would not jar this loose..... WRONG.......
After getting the new stop in place and mounting the scope with mount to the rifle. I tightened down the thumb heads as tight as I could tighten them with my thumb and for fore finger.
At this point I knew this would end my problems. After trying to sight in the new scope I noticed my patterns were going astray.
I took a look at the set up and low and behold it was moving,,,, Yikeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees
So I took it all apart and reset the stop and re-tightened the scope mount as tight as I could get it. Now by looking at the size of the thumb heads on the mount you would think the thread and screws were very heavy duty.... WRONG........
Well I proceeded to re-sight the scope and on the third pellet one of the thumb heads bounced off my shooting table. Dang it broke off under the recoil of the S1K. So then I set everything down and picked up the thumb head off the floor. I then started to loosen the other thumb head nut and it sheared off in my fingers.
So the reason for this post....
The scope cost me over $70.00 with shipping and then I realized that I had just lost my money... Yikeeeeeeeees
That was a couple months back. One day I mentioned it to Charlie that I had broken a brand new scope on the S1k. Being the way CharlieDaTuna is, he said let me see that thing. So I gave it to him and today he gave it back to me. Below you will find the solution on how to salvage a $70.00 scope..
Tools Used:
1. Drill Bit # 11/64"
2. Tap # 8-32
The original screws were pressed in from one side of scope mount with threads exposed on opposite side. This is where the second half of the mount laid and the round thumb head nuts are used tighten the two halves together on the rife dove tail.
Charlie pressed out the screws from the broken side where screws were sheared flush with the mount surface. He re-tapped the holes one size larger. He tapped the threads all the way through the block because it was cast aluminum and felt that they needed the extra threads because of it was aluminum. Used 8/32 X 3/4' allen head grade eight screws.
Now he re-drilled the other half of mount with a 11/64" drill bit to facilitate the newer larger allen head set screws.
I will use this scope on one of my Co2 Rifles and not a springer.... :)
My post on how I got to finally get a scope and mount not to move on my S1k was to drill in between the dove tail on back of barrel where scope mount would go useing a mount with a set screw. Drill a shallow hole about 1/16" in diameter and us a bottom drill to get a straight hole. Note: You do not have to drill that deep
Here are the pictures of the parts..
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you ought to try it just to see how it holds up and let the other guys know. That way they can determine whether or not they want to take a chance on buying it. It is a neat little scope and with that repair/mod done to it you should really be able to pull it down and it should never break and I don't think it will slide any more. Especially if the scope mounting groves or rails are really clean.
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Since springer tend to pretty brutal on scopes and mounts. That repair you did for Gene, was there enough metal left to install Heli-Coils??
After they are Red Loctite in, they won't move. Also you can torque on those screw a bit more. A little more confidence with them, than if you only dealing with just Aluminum threads and alloy screws
Just my $.02 worth
BTW I still like this forum:D :D
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way to put a set screw through the bottom of mount and into hole on S1K. In fact there is no way to put a set screw at all on the mount. So I don't think it would work on any of my springers without working loose. If you look at my pictures you will see that the mount itself bolts to the base of the scope before you mount it on the rifle. That is why I probably will only use it on my Co2 rifles.
Sure it will tighten down better than before but I think you really need a set screw to lock the mount in place on the dove tail with a springer.
Oh well it wil work great on my QB 78 .177..
Gene
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I bought the same Scope and the base had a problem. I called Leapers and they sent out a new base...It now sit on my S1K not a problem yet...Note this S1K has a stop pin hole. I guess Gamo got a clue
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It's pretty close. If you drill it out enough to put in heli-coils you would be just about through the wall. I think the screw will hold in the aluminum just fine I think if you run the tap clear through and us a 8-32x3/4 hex cap screw like I did. I don't think you would pull the threads unless you really cranked down on it. There is a lot of meat there.
I'm not sure I would want to use Red Loc-Tite either. Possibly blue but I just don't think the screws would loosen up.
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a tiny smear of fine valve lapping compound(autoparts store)in the bottom of the dovetail on the gun,where you will put the clamps.The compound bites into the jaws and the rail,"keying " them together on a microscopic level.Far more effective than locktite on the rail,because any slip just laps the parts to a better fit and increases the grip.When the lcotite cracks,it loses its effect. Found this in a book on firearms tips,used on magnum pistols.
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Excellent idea!
I use the same stuff on the tip of a phillips head screwdriver to get out stubborn screws that have worn/semi-stripped heads, I would haveto agree that the stuff does bite down. I've taken out screws that most people would have drilled out just by using an apex bit in a speed handle with a dab of valve grinding compound. If I can put my 200pounds of weight behind a screwdriver and it doesn't slip on a tweaked screwhead, I would imagine a scope mount would NEVER move...unless you were purposely removing it. Just wonder what the compound might do to the guns blueing if you got a tad too much on it, or didn't clean it well....yikes!
Dan
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the compound on a screwdriver trick has saved my bacon a couple times. The oil based lapping compound wont hurt the bluing,UNLESS you rub it around.You can wipe it off gently will an oily q-tip if it shows.I use a toothpick to get it down in the groove.