GTA
General Discussion To Gateway To Airguns => Airgun Gate => : MarkS34 June 06, 2009, 04:20:52 AM
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Howdy. I was wondering if anyone knows of a peep sight that will fit on an RWS 34 ('05)? I've never gotten a handle on on the "U" shaped sights, and I'm finding my 4x scope (RWS 4x32) to be an annoying pain sometimes. Which leads to more questions: Are scopes generally a pain to keep sighted in? I find I have to readjust every... 40 shots? That's an estimate, I really don't know for sure. I do try to make sure the screws are all nice and tight before I go shooting, and I generally shoot about 30 shots at a time (20 at paper a target, 10ish at cans, plaster golf balls, etc). And I don't bang it around.
I'm running myself through a modified, unofficial, 20 yrd NRA Light Rifle qualification course, and I need to hit an average of 8.5 with each shot. It's possible I just need more practice, but when I take that first shot and I get a big ol' goose egg, or every shot goes high right after a handful of 9s and 10s.. well, I get frustrated.
Shoot, I'm rambling now. All I want... all I'm looking for is a circle to look through that will not budge once it's set. I know, I'm dreaming the dream, ain't I? :0
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You probably have scope creep. All you need is a solid scope stop. Search pyramyd air for scope stop, and you wll have what you need.
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Hey Mark,
You didn't mention the make and model of scope that you are using ? It may not be holding up to the double recoil of the RWS-34. Be real sure that it's AirGun Rated. And if it is moving around, you might want to mark the front of the scope barrel, in front of the mounts,with a soft pencil, and also the rear of the scope barrel, behind the mounts. This will show you if your scope is moving.
Keep us informed on your progress.
Bill
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The rifle did come with a couple of holes where the mount attaches, and the mount does have the right sized pin to fit what I assume is the factory stop, so I don't think that's my problem. I'm keeping a wide open mind though, so I'll put it on my mental list of possibilities.
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The scope is an RWS 4x32. There are no other markings on it that I can find. I got the rifle and scope as a package from Cabela's, if that helps.
I have noticed one thing. I take a couple shots and get some decent hits, the very next shot will hit the target below the one I'm aiming at (it's happened more than once, it's not me I swear). Before the next shot, and after cocking the barrel, I'll rub my finger on the nub that holds the barrel's ball bearing in place, and bingo, another good shot. My thought now is perhaps it's not my scope but some build-up at the barrel lock? Or fliers? I shoot RWS SuperDomes and they usually stack up on top of each other at 20yrds.
Too many variables, and I'm too new at this.
(Edit), Whoops, was supposed to be a reply to Big Bill. I'll get the hang of this place eventually.
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I don't think it's my barrel lock theory. Tried my shoot and wipe technique and it didn't work.
Curiously, someone on another forum has posted a thread regarding this very issue. Doubt it's a coincidence, so thanks to them for that. Scope stop does seem to be an issue as there's a lot of wiggle between the hole and the pin (Thanks Brod man, didn't realize how much give there was there). I'm filling the hole with a round circle of silicone rubber to just take up the space. The rubber should hold together short term, and I'll at least find out if further more permanent alterations are needed. I don't like cutting metal except as a last resort. I'll try various methods of filling up the excess space if the rubber doesn't hold. A drop of cooled hot glue might do the trick too. That stuff is flexible and very strong, but doesn't bond to metal very well. Might be perfect.
Thanks!
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I had the exact same problem with a rws scope.I'm not a fan of having to hold over/under when shooting at distances other than my set POA at 25 yards,so I bought a Beeman peep for my M34.After installing it I can say that it is like a lazer beam now over a broader set of ranges.Granted your eyes have to be good because you don't have the benefit of magnification.I do have a scope on my 350 mag. I had to scrap the combo rws scope and went with a 69 dollar centerpoint from walmart,my groups are much tighter now i.e. stacking pellets at 25 yards.I also replaced the rws C mount with a rws droop compensating dual stop pin mount.But to address your original question Beeman peep sight works on a 34.
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If you don't have too much droop look at this. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=121512
This is what I put on my Panther. Just file it square and remove the sight screw from the rail and it will slide on. No frills stays put once set. Perfect for hunting. The Beeman fits with no modification.
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Ok, after shooting most of my remaining pellets, it's definitely scope related. My silicone rubber held for a couple of groups, but then gave it up. I took off the scope and fired a bunch through the open sights and got much better grouping than when the scope is misbehaving. When the scope is solid (like at the beginning of the experiment), it punches 5 shot holes in the paper.
So. I gotta work on a way to keep the scope from moving on my own, buy something to stop it moving, and/or get a peep sight which is what I've always wanted anyway. Well, at least I got options.
Thanks everyone.
(edit) Almost forgot! Do either of those peep sights mount on the barrel? I'd rather just swap out the rear open sights and keep things off the receiver... but I'll do what I have to to shoot straight.
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No,aperture or "peep" sights are made to mount at the rear of a rifle. Here is a picture of one ona a 460.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/184474/message/1218593045/Look%2C+Ma%21+No+sights+on+my+new+460%21
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Drat, that's too bad. Thanks for the info.
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Ooh ooh ooh! I think I might have found a near perfect spacer to take up the room in the scope stop hole. Ready.... a staple! Or rather, 3-4mm of a staple from my staple gun, bent around needle nose pliers for shape. Yes, the staple was bent before it was cut, I'm not that strong. Does it fit? Near perfectly. It's just a small arc of metal, a couple mm long, that stays below the surface of the rail so the mount stays flush. Took a little wiggling to get it to seat, but once it did it was nice and snug. I should've taken a picture, but it's too late now, sorry. I've got everything back together (again) and half a tin of Meisterklugen eagerly waiting for tomorrow. I prefer SuperDomes, but I shot most of those today and my new supply ain't coming for a few days.
I'll give this five cent solution a try for the time being. If it works long term, I'll take pictures of the process. Or at least come up with a simple drawing.
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Try looking here. http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Mendoza_Diopter_Sight_11mm_Dovetail/2003http You might have barrel droop and it's known that the RWS scope stop holes on the mount are too shallow for any effective effect. Look at this http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/UTG_Scope_Mount_Base_Fits_RWS_Diana_34_36_38__and_45_Compensates_for_Droop_and_Stops_Scope_Shift/2298
and try a different scope. The Centerpoint 3-12x40AO at Walmart is $70.00 and if you don't like it, return it.
Just because the manf. gave you a scope mount, doesn't mean that it's the proper one or that it works well on your rifle. Same with the included scope.
Hoe this helps.
PaulS
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Williams makes a air rifle peeper that sets lower than the Mendoza that has a third clamping screw that secures the jaw after you have tightened the rail screws that I have used . It is a FP - AG part number . Here is a link.
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=WU14168&prodTitle=Williams%20FP%20Series%20for%20Grooved%20Receivers
If you look at the one on my Discovery real close you can see the third screw top on the bottom rail facing down . Marvin
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This is a quick drawing of the Staple Arc Method.
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I have the same gun circa 1990 with a RWS 350 4X32 scope and a one piece Accushot mount that I just mounted today and after about 10 shots to sight it in I've shot consistently without any scope movement and with surprising accuracy.
You might have problems with your scope mount sliding.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l32/togo4it/Mod34wscope.jpg
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The Superdomes are in and the scope is holding so far. I messed around a bit with some Meisterkugeln and got things back on the paper, but they wander on me too much to make any real determination. Today, after the domes showed up I put things to a better test. After fine tuning the scope a bit I took 3 shots at the green 1" square (pic below) at 20 yards. Then I shot 20 rounds into one of my personal achievement targets (scored 170 / 200, my second best target to date) also at 20 yards. And finally took 2 last shots at the 1" green square again. Everything is working great so far.
If it continues to hold, I won't need a peep sight except for fun. If it doesn't hold I'm coming back to this thread to decide which of the many options y'all have presented that works for me. Thanks everyone.
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The Staple Arc failed yesterday. Got a couple hundred shots through it before it slipped out of place, but slip it did. I'm going to continue to try and not spend any money trying to get this mess to stabilize, even though I can probably save myself the headache and just get a better scope and mount, I'm not beaten yet.
When I took the scope and mount off the rail I noticed a little something something. On the underside of the mount, where it meets the rail, were some scratches caused by the mount moving over the ridges in the rail. Ok, that's not news. What is news is how small an area was actually scratched up. Two tiny little sections about a mm wide and a cm in length right near where the hex screws that hold the mount to the rail. If only those two small areas are scratched up due to scope shift, then only those two small areas were actually gripping the base. The other 98% of the surface area of the mount is unmarked, and couldn't have been snug to the base or it would also be all scratched up.
So, plan B is now in effect: Increase the surface area of contact, the friction, between the mount and rail. Attempt B-1 is just a simple piece of friction tape applied to the whole length of the underside of the mount. I cut a small hole in the tape to allow the stop pin to come through and find it's home in the stop hole on the rail. It felt very snug during re-assembly, but I have not done any test shooting with this method yet, but, in theory, it *should* work for a little while anyway.
- Mark
p.s. Almost picked up a CenterPoint at Wally World the other day. Would probably be posting targets in the target gate by now if I had. Grrrrr.