GTA
PCP - HPA - C02 Gate => Crosman Discovery Forum => : kent_man October 22, 2009, 03:05:38 PM
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I'm wanting to get that silky smooth gloss finish that you see on other guns. I bought several gun stock products by Birchwood Casey. One is a stock finish kit that contains a walnut stain, Tru-Oil, Stock sheen and conditioner, and sand paper clothes and steel wool. I also bough their gun stock wax. I'm not neccesarily looking to strip sand and stain the stock at this point, but I was hoping to get good results with the other products.
I was thinking maybe I could use the tru-oil over the existing finish then condtion and wax, I'm not sure if this will work or screw it up. Or will the stock sheen and conitioner give me the finish I'm looking for? I know that for the best looking results stripping and sanding first is the way to go, but at this point I'm not looking to put that much time into it.
Thanks in advance,
kent_man
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I wanted to do something similar and as soon as I put double 0 steel wool to it I bit into the finish.So I'd start on the inside of the stock first and go easy.
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Maybe you should have used 0000 steel wool instead??
Ray
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So is it ok to put the tru-oil over the existing finish or should it be totally removed?
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So how did yours turn out? What did you end up doing?
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Yea Ray probly should have started finer and not in the middle of the stock.LOL. Now I'll just have to strip all the way down.Kent man I ended up making my own custom cherry stock but that was my plan to start any who.
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Well I just decided to go for it. Just put my first coat of tru oil on.
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Joe-Joe I'm from Indiana too. I'm in Fort Wayne soon to be North Carolina though.
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Jonathan, good luck and let us know how it turns out. I may try this on one of my disco stocks.
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What part of North Carolina ?
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Wiinston-Salem, my girlfriend is getting her PhD at Wake Forest.
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I guess I was too late to give some tips!
Yes you can put true oil over the existing finish, but it's gotta be roughed up a little first. I'd stay away from using steel wool as it has oil in it. It also leaves small particles of steel fibers behind.
I would get some 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper and dry sand the entire stock until it's dull. Then mix some Tru Oil 50/50 with mineral spirits. And apply it with your FINGERS to the stock. A little Tru Oil goes a LONG way. I use my fingers because you can feel when you need more oil. This also keeps the coats thin and you get almost no runs this way.
Hang the stock from one or both of the butt plate screws and start applying the Tru Oil. Dip your finger in the 50/50 mix of oil and mineral spirits then start spreading it in long strokes from top to bottom following the grain. You'll feel when you need more oil. Dry spots tend to feel slightly stickey. After you have your first coat on. Let it dry overnight in a well lit room (Tru Oil needs light to dry properly. that's why it's in a dark brown bottle).
Next day if the finish still feels kinda tackey, let it sit for another day or so. When it feels hard to the touch, give it another dry sanding with the 1000 grit paper, wipe it off well and go with another coat. Repeat the process about 3 times and on the fourth time, use Full Strength, uncut Tru Oil. This will take a bit longer to dry, but it's worth the wait. It should take about 3 or 4 days to cure completely.
Once the final coat is completely cured, lightly sand it with the 1000 grit sand paper, then move to rubbing compound. After the rubbing compound the stock should be semi-shiney and still have feather light scratches in it from the compound. Now move to Polishing compound and buff the stock until it shines. Onces it there, you can wax it. This should give it a nice luster!
For rubbing & polishing compounds I just use Turtle Wax red rubbing compound and Turtle Wax White polishing compound. I get them both from Walmart in the automotive section for about 4 dollars each. They come in tubs that look like car wax.
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Well I'm actually finished. I'm an impatient person so I only applied 3 coats then used the stock sheen and coditioner followed by the wax. All products used were the Birchwood Casey brand. I only let it cure a day before the polish and waxing, but I'd say it turned out great. It didn't transform the stock into something that it wasn't, but it did give it that sheen I was looking for and a high quality look. Now it doesn't look like a dried out piece of wood like before.