GTA
PCP - HPA - C02 Gate => QB-7X Gate -W/Co2 & HPA => : ribbonstone March 14, 2007, 10:34:46 AM
-
I hate the QB safety....need to flip it 180degrees, it's impossible to flick it ON with one hand while holding the rifle to your shoulder, so we tend to ignore it or flip the rifle on it's side to operate it (which lets the muzzle wander in unsafe ways). I hate having to remove tehesaefy before de-stocking the rifle.
So I "fixed" mine. this riufle is to be a hunter, and I really want to be able to put it ON and OFF safe without removing it from my shoulder.
Some experimenting showed that it when off safe at about 90degrees. This got me to thinking.
First I inletted a slot so the saefty can pass while still in place, just turned straight down. IT's an easy, straight slot (these guns de-stock by being pulled straight up). With a hard stock, can do it with a small square or even triangluar file...nice to have a small round rfile to radius the edge of the slot and make the job look neater. Take your time, the trigger housing inletting is dead flat...so it's pretty easy to make a dead flat groove and keep it even.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/IMG_0619.jpg) (http://photobucket.com)
Notice, I did file the safety lever doen a bit so the inletting wouldn't have to be so deep...and I promise to re-groove it just as soon as I find my lost metal checkering file (and proably blue it).
Then I marked the saefy lever and drilled it for a pin (1/16"). The pin hits the trigger guard, so when off safe it points stright down. Same pin hits the top of the trigger guard, so when on safe, the lever is a little riased. Pin is a tight fit in it's 1/16" hole...is good to rough ithe base of the pin a little bit to give the lock-tite or epoxy something to bite into.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/IMG_0610.jpg) (http://photobucket.com)
Can flick it on and off with my trigger finger while holding the gun ready to fire..and can take the stock off while leaving the safety in place.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/IMG_0616.jpg) (http://photobucket.com)
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/IMG_0614.jpg) (http://photobucket.com)
The safety didn't quite disengare 100% of the time in this posision...safety shaft 9where the spring rids)needs to drop down a little farther. The way the safety stystem works is that when 'On" the shaft of the safety pushes the sear up and out of contact with the hammer...when "off" it lowers the sear into contact with the hammer. This one needed to be a little lower...will nedd to check yours as there is a good bit of differences between triggers. Can either (1) file a flat on the saefy cylinder or (2) file the shaft of the safety a little bit so the sear can clear....it's an easy fix.
Completed rifle...safety mod. and all.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/IMG_0624.jpg) (http://photobucket.com)
Yeah...there is a LDC on the barrel; mouted the issue front sight to kind of disguise that fact. With a thin enough attahcment, can still sight in the iron (rear sight needs to be rasied a good bit, but you can get it on at 25yards even with the front sight mounted higher).
-
Purdy slick!!!
What all have you done to that stock? The stock on my old QB didn't look nuthin' like that.
Dan
-
Dan:
This one actually came with a pretty poor example of wood...finish was typical, but there ae several ares where the factory filled cracks. On a guess, from dealing with wood, either they (1) forced dried the wood, (2) used a tree that had sever wind damage at some time in the past (those types of cracks are sometimes called "shakes"). The thick finish they use hides that filler pretty well so I decided to leave most of the factory finish/color in place.
All I did was rub off the excess dull factory finish with a solvent (mineral spirits) damp burlap cloth (let it dry)...paint on a thick coat of MinWax dark walnut...let that sit for about 1/2 and hour then rub the excess off.....let it dry overnight (or two)...three coats of true-oil and a little lite buffing with 0000steel wool between coats. Let it dry for a couple of days, then wax it (basic Johnson's hard paste floor wax).
Sounds like a lot...but each day's work is all of 10-20min. and inside of a work-week, it'll be done.
-
The one I had looked like they stored it in a cesspool for coloring, then polished it up with a wet rag dipped in glass shards. The same action now sports a custom curly maple stock:
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/DanoInTx/IMAG0007.jpg)
Dan