GTA
General Discussion To Gateway To Airguns => The Shop => : davee1 January 17, 2010, 04:32:06 PM
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Whipped this puppy up in anticipation of my 350M tune. 1/2-13 threaded rod, a few washers, flangenuts, and coupling nuts. Works great!!!
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Looks simple, inexpensive, and will get the job done safety. What's not to love. Good work, Dave. snookman
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Yep, cheap and works great. Small cost for a large safety factor of working with a non-preloaded spring!!! Only difference in mine is I used a wing nut on one end.
Dave
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I used a 1/2"-13 coupling nut, so I could use a 7/8 wrench for when the goin getstough. Right at coilbind, things get a little hard to turn...but all the coils line up nice and straight, and I let it sit for a few seconds, then undo the nut with my wrench.(http://../jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-smile.gif)
Works much better than I thought it would!!!
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Thanx Snook
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Yep, does get a little tough when you get down to the complete compression. (http://../jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-surprised.gif)
Excellent setup. I think I posted instructions on making one of these but Ididn't post apicture. Good job. Should savemembers some griefand injury!!!!
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Wish I had this little item when I tried to put in a new spring in my Whisper the first time. I worked my but off trying to get the spring in my compressor. Great idea!!!
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As a matter of fact Chortdraw, this idea came to mind while installing a spring in my Whisper too. I couldn't get the barrel off, so I ended up putting the whole action/barrel in my compressor...and it was a little more difficult that way. Then when the unset JM Tarantula came into play, it was even more difficult. The lightbulb in my head went on, and I knew I had to do something different, because My 350Ms are on the slate for lubetunes. They have really long unset mainsprings, and I wasnt going to try to undertake the task of stuffing an unset 350 spring with my compressor. Hence...the "springsetter"(http://../jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-smile.gif)
Makes things a whole lot easier, works good, looks good, and seems very safe to me. I used the thickest threaded rod that would fit inside most of my springs. I also have another smaller sized setup for the smaller ID of the smaller springs.
I always wear safety glasses too, when using this puppy.
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Simple but Effective. What more can be asked for????
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Looks great. I hope you don't mind if I make a copy of it for myself.
Really nice and simple. It should get the job done. Thanks for sharing.
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By all means Doc...make your own. Thats why I share this stuff, so you can see, and make it too if you want. Somewhere in my travels, I saw someone else's too...and made my own.(http://../jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-smile.gif)
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I got all this stuff from Enco...and tried to go as heavy duty as possible...maybe overkill, but I like to build safe:
990-3196 1/2-13 threaded rod 3ft, alloy steel 4140B-7
319-7818 1/2-13 flanged nuts...qty 2
319-8048 1/2" bolt size washers 1 1/8 x 17/32 x 3/16...qty 4
319-7800 1/2-13 coupling nuts...qty 2
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clever idea!
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You should cross drill the nut on the end and pin it so only one nut can back off. That will increase the safety factor as well. At HD and other hardware stores they sell an adaptor that fits into a drill and a socket will fit on the opposite end-3/8 or 1/2 drive. you can then turn the whole assy with a cordless or other drill and save your arms.
Al
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Double nutting like he has done will hold just as well and it's easier for anyone to assemble one.
I have one very much like he made that I've been using for 25 years to compress the very large center coil springs of finger spring type clutches I rebuild.
I also work on aircraft style air cooled antique auto enginess that have the crankcase studs for the cylinder jugs of these motors originally designed to be double nutted. That method holds far better with the thermal expansion and vibration these motors get, than with lock washers, or even cotter pins and castliated nuts.
Paul.
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Al, I actually like using a long 7/8ths wrench to twirl that baby down...keeps me fit!!!(http://../jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-smile.gif) And one of theflange nuts acts as a jam nut against the other, and the botton coupling nut acts as a jam nut against the flange nuts. I've already done a 350 spring, and those nuts didnt budge. Its safe enough to pass on to other folks, and you can modify to your own saftey levels.
Also, the way I like to use this is...after I've jammed the 3 nuts together, I put thethree nuts in a vise on my workbench so that the rod is sticking straight up in the air. Then, I use a 7/8ths boxed end wrench to slip over the single coupling nut on top, and twirlaway.
I guess there's lots of ways of doing things...this is my gift to you guys as food for thought.
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Good to know Paul. Them jam nuts work really well. I've seen em in other applications as well. They are a solid foundation. I'm even using two jam nuts!!!
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It is a good idea and I used one for a long time years ago although it had a bearing on each end. In fact, it was on my website on the "Airgun Info" page for a number of years. I stopped using it altogether when I made a good universal can do all spring compressor and I got tired of calculating exact spring height all the time.
I also determined that it was far more accurate letting the gun itself set the spring. The reason that I stopped is that unless youi know exactly what your overall spring set length is and it is compressed value to that length, and if it is compressed and set beyond the maximum required set length, you do lose a little spring efficiency. A bit of premature spring fatigue if you will. Also, it you do happen to nick the spring on the inside due to it scraping the threaded rod, you then have a weakened spot in the spring and that is where it will possibly fail.
One other point is that depending on the size of the spring to the threaded rod, you can also cause the spring to have cant issues.
Of course the optimum way to set the spring is to install the spring in the gun without it being set and let the gun set the spring the first time it is cocked. Just cock it and let it set for about 5 minutes. Then it will be set to it's exact length that is determined by the compressed length to that particular action and spring guide and tophat or spacer configuration.