GTA
General Discussion To Gateway To Airguns => Crosman-Benjamin Gate => : onemountain April 18, 2010, 07:00:38 AM
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I know this might seem like a weird thread and maybe it is. But I'm reaaalllyyy starting to lust after a .22 Trail XL right now and when I get my tax return my button clicking finger is probably going to start getting really twitchy.
That said, I want to know what I'm getting into as far as possible downsides. From what I've read the stock seal probably(?) will need replacing. However, I've also read that you don't need a spring compressor to take the preload off the gas ram, which would be a huge plus to me. Are these things true?
And how about cocking effort? It is a magnum springer after all. If its the same as the chopped B28A I used to have (or maybe a chopped 350 or 350 compact) then it won't be a problem.
Any problems with the finish? These aren't likely to bother me, but hey, you never know.
Any other issues people have had?
I spoke with one of my relatives (I have no idea what our relation technically is; I just think of him as uncle-ish) and he mentioned that he knows a farmer that has horrible problems with groundhogs. Mr. Farmer Guy has been recruiting people with rimfire guns and kids with airguns to help him clean out the groundhogs and pest birds, respectively. I'm thinking it might be nice to have a relatively quiet magnum springer in the mix for work around the barns/stables etc to be able to cull both birds and 'hogs with minimal worries about property damage and spooking the livestock. And the Trail XL is looking like the perfect tool for the job right now.
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I didn't take my .22 XL apart as my chrony results indicated the seal in my gun is fine so I just left it the way it is, but the guys that have taken theirs down have said that you do not need a spring compressor.
Cocking effort..... I own a .22 350 magnum and my XL definitely takes more force to cock. The only other springer I have that takes as much cocking force is my English made GAMO 1250 Royal in .22 The cocking effort doesn't bother me though because it's not a target rifle, it's a hunter so it's not like I'll be sitting in the back yard plinking with it. The initial sighting in and pellet testing did of course give my arms and shoulders a workout, but now that that's done I don't give the cocking effort a thought.
My only complaints with the rifle out of the box was the HORRIBLE stock trigger, but that's an easy fix :) , and the staining job on the stock. Don't get me wrong, the staining job isn't horrible, it's just poor - fair at best, but I must admit that once I cleaned it up and spent some time on the stock with a new silicone cloth it now actually looks much better. To be honest though the stock is fine with me cause I bought the rifle to go hunting with and it's gonna get its nicks and dings anyway so to me it's no real big deal.
The metal and bluing on my rifle was good,,,,not great but good,, about what I would expect. Again though, I bought this rifle to hunt with so I'm happy.
As for it's capability as a hunter for small game and medium sized game such as groundhogs....... the gun is simply outstanding :)
Jeff
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Thanks for the post, Jeff. Exactly what I was looking for. Sounds like a good hunting gun- a tool, really, with functionality over looks and not a paintball plinker.
I've always thought of a good hunting gun as being like a girl raised out in the country who had to pull her weight on the farm- she might not be as civilized or dress as fancy as some of the more sophisticated European gals, but she's tough and gets the job done, and resents being cooped up in the house or confined to the range.
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What Jeff said.
And you heard right, you do not need a spring compresser to open up the Trail NPXL model.
However, because of the differance in how the rear of the recievers are between the two Trail models, you will need a spring compresser to open up the Trail NP model.
As to working inside one, I've had mine apart, cleaned and deburred it and replaced the seal. All easy to do. You only have to unscrew the rear cap of the reciever a few turns and all the preload is off the ram. Continue unscrewing and the ram slides right out. Slide the trigger group back a bit and it comes out. Un-latch the cocking shoe from the piston, tip the reviever up, tap it into your open palm and the piston slides out.
I will add this to the dislikes....
The clear finish is fine, but the staining under it has the dull look of water based wood stain which was not rubbed down before the clear coats were put on. The brush marks of the strain are very noticable.
I don't like the recoil pad. I'm used to rounded edged pads so I can bring the gun up quickly to a shooting position. The sharp edges of my Trail XL's pad get caught on clothing and shouldering it takes a bit of adjusting for me to get it where I'm comfortable. With a coat on it only gets tougher to shoulder properly. I'll be taking the pad off and going over it with my bench sander and buffing wheels to round the edges.
And, whatever the synthetic rubber is that the pad is made out of smells bad !!!! It's aired out some as time goes by, but when the gun was new ...PHEW !!!!
Other than that, the effort to cock it doesn't bother me near as much as when I first got it, and I REALY like it's accuracy and power.
Paul.
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I have had mine a week. I'm closing in on 200 rounds and it is still shooting poorly and dieseling. The fact that I have to either return my gun (to the vendor or Crosman) for a replacement or procure the parts (and pay for them and wait for them) and do my first lube tune annoy me. I've put a lot of effort into breaking it down, cleaning it, replacing the trigger, dialing in the scope, shooting many break-in pellets, struggling during the sight-in process, etc. I'm rolling the dice if I request a replacement - could get another one that needs work too. I wish they had sent me Jeff's! I'm inclined to order the parts and do it myself, then cross my fingers and hope the accuracy is not due to something else.
The good part is I really like the smoothness of it and like the punch it packs on my targets enough to not simply get my money back.
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I thought about the same things - send it in for warrentee and wonder, or do it myself.
I chose to do it myself so I wouldn't have to,
A. Wonder if it was going to be OK, and would they de-burr inside so the new seal wouldn't also be chewed up.
B. I'd have a better quality seal from Maccari.
C. I'd know more about the inner workings of my gun.
As far as cost of a new seal + postage, that got weighed against what UPS-ing the gun back to Crosman would have cost me.
Paul.
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It is A great powerful riffle,
It took my partner about 300 rounds & then found that the beeman kodiacs work.
Only dislike for me it was to long I am only 5"6'
sent mine back & got the NP
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When I bought my Trail XL it was new with few reviews. I wanted a 22 cal gas piston rifle to do mostly paper punching, and occasional pest control duty here at the lake. My XL had zero problems and grouped well with Beeman FTS, and 40 yd head shots on my prairie dog target, were easy. This is a heavy rifle, but balance is good and the provided sling is excellent. The integral weaver style scope mounting rail is the way all rifles should be. I had no problems, no smoke,very accurate, and feel that it needed only one of tuna's triggers. Cocking effort is for sure in the magnum range at 48lbs, and would have been fine for hunting, but was to much for me doing mostly target shooting, so, I took advantage of the PA deal and swapped it for an NP. Were I a hunter there is no doubt that I would still own the XL. Regards
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Heres the bad- Its very big & heavy! it wont be a pleasure to pack hunting.. --- the factory trigger is impossible & extra $$ will likely have to be spent on this problem.. --- The scope is not a hunting scope IMO! It has exposed adjustments & no way to lock in your settings + it doesn't track well enough to depend on either.. I also, didn't care for the scope mounts! It is a strong set up, but the rings provided sets the scope to high off the barrel which magnifies canting.. No big deal to replace the mounts! but like the scope & trigger, its just extra $$.. --- The barrel is threaded at the muzzle to accept the barrel shroud & obviously wasnt aligned well with the bore because the pellets was clipping the shroud & causeing terrible accuracy at first.. Of course this meens extra pellets/ $$ wasted figureing out the problem --- The rifle is very finicky about its hold! Even with the trigger lightened you have to be very particular about how you handle it to get the accuracy out of the rig. --- The finish on the stock leaves something to be desired & is just OK --- The rifle requires crosman silicone lube for the compression chamber & IMO should be included! That would be a nice added bonus for folks like me that dont have the product available locally..
Now for the good -
The rifle has a decent appearance & its very accurate with JSB 18.1 gr pellets --- The rifle is achieving 800 + FPS with the pellet mentioned so theres no hold over to 40 yrds --- Even though I dont like the features of the scope, it is performing OK and holding its zero --- The reviews I read about the pellet strike being louder than the report of the rifle is a fact! --- Because of its weight,the rifle lays well on the bench which helps ring out all the accuracy you can get from the rig.. --- The strap is a nice added bonus -- I found the thumb hole stock very comfortable & well made & despite the looks of the finish, its a pleasure to hold..
Over all, its a decent buy! It would be nice if there was nothing else to buy!! but then again, im sure some people are totally satisfied with the deal as is.. FWIW, a longer adjustment screw in the trigger will allow you to reduce the pull to under 2LBS.. With that said,I would recommend the GTX trigger as this is a risky & potentually dangerous way to accomplish the task.
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its got its problems but for 3oo dollars it will be very hard to beat for looks and power , at least it feels like a rifle not some piece of plastic. and silicon grease is available at any automotive store .
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The directions call for oil, not grease! you have to tear the rig down to apply grease and tearing down a new rifle or "buying anything extra after paying 300.00" isn't tops on my list! :)
To each there own! but the point is I could be spending that extra $$ on pellet testing..
I read a ton of reviews before purchaseing this rifle & as I stated, there are those that are very pleased with the deal.. I myself am content! but not exactly over joyed!! :)
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seems that most of the trails have bad piston seals in them.. i quess most of us knew that from this forum i replaced my piston seal and applied silicon grease. no oil i know the manual says to put a few drops of oil but i don;t speaking for myself. i don't think i have read anywhere on this forum anything about putting oil in the compression chamber, i could be wrong though , but i have learned alot on here.
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No silicone oil should be used in the chamber. Crosman does put a light coat of silicone oil on the poston shaft and piston housing. That should last a lifetime as long as your gun is healthy. The seal is nylon and needs no grease or oil on it.
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Gene,
So when I replace my piston seal next week (Maccari seal) I just need to clean the old oil out the compression chamber with a degreaser, then leave the walls bone dry? I have the moly and was going to put a small amount all over the seal.
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Quoted directly from the Benjamin trail manual.
Maintaining your airgun
-Periodically tighten all stock screws
-Check and tighten scope mounts if applicable
-To ensure that your air rifle maintains uniform power, it is important that you apply a drop of crosman RMCoil every few hundred shots into the compression chamber
CAUTION: USE Crosman RMCOIL ONLY AND DO NOT OVER OIL.
Since I have no intension of tearing my rifle down,ill stick with the directions for now..
Thanks for the info though! This is a great site with lots of that..
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About overlubing your gun! I know the manual says to put a drop in every few hundred shots. I've never heard of RMCoil, but if you do use it , use just ONE drop. One is good 2 is not better. That's were people get in trouble and overlube the compression chamber and cause dieseling or detonation. Personnally I would go every 3000 not 300 rounds or longer between oilings. But that's just me.
http://www.air-rifle.net/cleaning/cleaning.html
Nathan
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With the gas ram guns yes you should put just a small amount of molly on the seal and a one inch strip behind all around the piston. You may also put a one inch strip of molly on the rear of the piston. Use very sparingly. You just want enough on the seal to shine it up. Your gun during normal shooting will pull the moly forward and actually keep the seal in good condition. But remember use it sparingly. The piston shaft on the gas ram you should use 30wt pure sicone lube and just coat it lightly. If you have clear tar it is a good idea to put a small amount around the gas shock tube towards the front. A little goes a very long way..:)
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RMCoil is the crosman silicone oil, but I had actually never heard it called that either.
Thanks for the link! Great read..
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The new air gun user can misinterpret these articles. The articles are based on the old leather seals. And not the new synthetic seals. They simply understate the effects of what it can do to your spingers. Since the beginning of man making parts that move they have always used some kind of lubricants..:) Like the old wagon wheels.:) Beeman, RWS and others make lubing a springer look easy and convienent but the only way to really lube them properly is taking them apart and lubing with molly and tar.
And I know it is always easier to just put a drop or two in the spring chamber to lube the spring instead of taking it apart.. But really you are not improving anything. Springs do not squeak in air guns...:) Take my advice and do not use any oil in your spingers..
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As Gene said do not put the oil in the shooter. :0 Remember that commercial This is your brain on drug's and they tossed the egg in a hot fry pan with oil. The new airgun ad this is your shooter on oil. :0 Ed
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Mine seems to be shooting just fine "as is" and since its now broken in and shooting very smooth & accurately it wont get shot much anyhow.. I have other rifles that are much better to plink with.. Maybe in a yr or so when the warranty is up ill take it down & lube it..
Thanks.
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ok now im worried. hello all. new to this site. just purchased the benji trail xp in 22 caliber after reading good reviews on it. unfortunately my bad luck being what it is i got a lemon from P.A. not there fault but the gun would not cock. would bottom out on the stroke but not engage the trigger. so while im waiting for a replacement and my grt 3 trigger from charlie i thought i would do some more research. is this gun going to need a new seal every year or am i reading too much into this? i used to have a rws diana 34[i believe that was the model] for 8 years and never oiled the thing. it was shooting fine when i gave it away.i just want a good reliable hunting rifle.
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Well, I'm under the impression that a seal (if in good shape and properly installed) should last a long time. Like years and years or maybe 8 or 10k shots. But I'm no tuner, and since I couldn't find the answer, let's find out (http://thread-view.asp?tid=27642&posts=1#M217615) :)
What I understand to be the problem with the Benjamins is that some of their seals were nicked when they were assembled at the factory, not that they've worn out swiftly. I dunno the odds that yours will be bad. It might be worth it to just get a new one and install it anyway, since it sounds like these rifles are easy to tear down. Also, that way you won't have to worry about it in the back of your mind.
Oh, and welcome to the GTA! Might I suggest you post a thread saying hi to everyone over in the Airgun Gate?
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Welcome Ricky.
Sorry to hear you got a lemon, but it does happen.
Since the Trails have only been on the market about two months, I've heard no mention of any seals wearing out. As Onemountain mentioned, there have been several mentioned, and pictures posted (mine included), where some of the guns have seals that were damaged during assembly.
Even if you get one with a bad seal, Crosman's warrentee service is said to be one of the best in the industry.
And with the Trail XL model, should you decide to fix it yourself, the replacement seals are not expensive, or difficult to change. In fact, the Maccari replacement seals are said, by those extreamly knowleagable in Airgun tuning, to be made of better, longer lasting material than the Crosman original.
Use the search feature and type in, "Trail XL" and read how many XL's are doing fine, and you'll also see the info on the few that had problems and what the solutions were.
Paul.
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Mine finally bit the dust Sunday. All this agonizing over the possible status of the piston seal became a moot point when my Nitro piston went limp! I was around the 300 shot mark and had all my parts ready to do a seal+lube tune when the cocking effort went from the usual to about 50%. It is currently being shipped back for a full gun exchange as they would not simply send me a replacement Nitro piston or replace just that part.
I took the opportunity to do a complete disassembly. My seal did have some damage - I'll try to post pics but they get fuzzy when I zoom in to make them visible. I saw what Gene posted previously (here (http://thread-view.asp?tid=27225&mid=214531#M214531) ) regarding the ram rubbing inside the piston, also saw where the piston rubbed the chamber wall some too. Really makes me wonder if there is anything designed to stop that or do the gun manufacturers just allow the rear end of the piston to flop around like that? I would prefer a bushing or guide or something. I guess all I can do on the next one is put some moly on those spots?
My seal looked pretty bad compared to Gene's. But my piston chamber looked smooth as glass and would not have needed any work other than along the cocking groove. All and all I still like the gun, like the power I felt for a little while, it was fun to shoot and I personally didn't find the magnum cocking to be a major problem. So I am looking forward to getting my new one back. I will remain a fan of the gun unless the second one has issues too.
(http://www.earlysvilleironworks.com/link/seal_all.jpg)
(http://www.earlysvilleironworks.com/wds3r/seal1.bmp)
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Sorry to hear your's quit.
That seal has as many nicks and is as oily as mine was.
Hope the new XL is a keeper !!!
Paul.
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Mine had that dipped in oil look as well. The JM seal seems much more durable then the factory seal. So far mine has held up(knock on wood).
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my seal in mine looks just like yours, looks like a hole in the side of it sorry pics kinda fuzzy
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Were you replacing your seal? How did it go? I think that 'hole' is part of the production process like an injection port or something. Or maybe an assembly tool they use? I've seen a very similar mark on other photos.
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Mine has a similar mark in it, but I thought it looked like a crater burned into the seal rather than something to do with injection molding. Since so many have it, maybe it does have something to do with how it was made.
Anyway, the seal lip was chewed up, so now it's got a new Maccari seal. It was easy to install, just a light wipe of silicone grease and it easily popped on the dovetail button on the piston.
Paul