GTA
General Discussion To Gateway To Airguns => The Shop => : howie1a May 01, 2008, 08:15:05 AM
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This is using a tool from woodworking to do a nice recrown on a rifle , I an using a C-5 countersink using either a polished brass insert or a wood dowell put into the countersink backward in place of the drill bitt , the part sticking out that you will put into your barrel will act as a guide to make the tool perpendicular to the bore , powered with a drill you can make a chamfer ( crown) very easy. This is similar to the tool that gunsmiths use , see the pictures I used an old piece of barrel left from one of my projects.howie PS I've used this countersink or one like it on ss wood plastics and mild steel and it can be sharpened or the angle can be changed when resharpening it just put it into a drill backward and sharpen in a bench grinder.
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That's not a bad idea. If I ever have to recrown a rifle, or if I decide to recrown one just for the heck of it, I'm definately going to try it this way.
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Great idea Howie and I bet running in reverse, with some toothpaste, it will polish up nicely to.
Mike
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VERY GOOD
this is another great example of what made me join this forum, not everyone has access to the proper equipment, gunsmiths or can send it off to get it tuned
fin
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Nice Post Howie. I just used a bit like that this week to make some wood traps. I have always thought recrowning needed to be much more precise. How do you deal with the burs that result in the rifling grooves? I would love to "chop" a few barrels on some of my guns. Im hesatant,Id hate to have to send my botched job to Gene or Bob to fix! Im watching this post Bud, any info you can provide would be greatly appreiciated. Way to go Howie, you are braver than me! Tim.
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What I do is make sure the counter sink is nice and sharp that helps but if you see any burs you could take a swiss round file and put it into the barrel handle first then gently lightly pull the file out cutting the burs out to the mussel your swiss file needs to have a small dia. the thing is that a mandrel ( wood or brass dowel ) in the countersink gives you a guide instead of free hand crowning. I seen a crowning tool in an book about gunsmithing and it was very much like using your countersink as I described but he had a tool for each cal.howie ps if you use the same c-5 countersinks that I am using you sharpen them by putting them on a drill bit and use your bench grinder to sharpen don't use a drill motor and spin them you grind each face all 4 faces one at a time . howie
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Im gona do it! The new Feuerkraft Pro Compact from Diana has me mesmerized.19 1/4' brl vrs. 15 3/4" ?? Im gonna lop off 4" tomorow. We will see. Have played around with many Cros XX brls. with good results. Time for another 3 stage polish on a crown!LOL! Tim.
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Hi Tim I've taken 4 inches of both my b2-2's (177 & 22) and my fast deer and it made them better they are now a short rifle (or carbine ) which ever you like to call them , they seem to shoot better the only thing was in the b2-2's they cock harder since you loose some cocking leverage on a brake barrel, but in my case I feel they are more accurate as well as faster. howie
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I DID IT Howie!! My 350 now has a 15 3/4" barrel just like the Feurkraft Pro Compact! Followed your crowning method,( slight variation) It turned out GREAT!! I would have never had the guts to do it without the help from you & BB Gun Bob. With the new muzzle break from Gene cocking is a breeze, & most important after about 50 shots (newly cleaned brl.) its gruoping fantastic, seems better than before!!! Ill be posting some pics. of the project later today. Im gonna go now & shorten the grub screws on the break & shoot some more Gamo targets! Thanks Howie for the insperation. Tim.
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Good job with that 350 Tim did you get my brass rear guide for that airgun
Howie, you live in St. Pete?? I work there maybe we need to hang out some time and talk air gun language
warren
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Most of the time I think my guns are better than me, but I keep trying to catch up ha ha howie
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Hey Uncle Warren, Tim here! Glad to see ya here! Have not used the new parts yet,got off on another mission today! Great to hear you & Howie can hook up!! Like I told you U.W. GREAT folks here at GTA! Dont call me now I gotta make a new thread! LOL! Cousin Tim.
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After I just did two crowns "the hard way", you show how to do them "the easy way"! Oh well, that's the way it always goes for me. Mine probably took me a lot longer but they still came out OK.
Did the wood dowel do anything bad to the rifling? Or did the rifling shave off parts of the wood dowel and get wood embedded in the rifling? If not, this definitely looks like a winning (and quick!) technique.
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Thanks, Howie good POST ! I will use your tricks on my next adventure...It will be
a lot faster.I even wrote the part down before I wrote the post!
Keep the Info coming..
Steve
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The wood dowel will not hurt the rifleing accually My grandfather used to have a wood cleaning rod. The only problem with a wood dowel is it keeps breaking you could use a different mtl that is softer than the steel barrel , I happen to have a brass rod laying around and I use that with no problems , I would be think that aluminum might put some build up if you used aluminum but when we used to cut aluminum with either a band saw, skill saw, or table saw we used to use saw wax to lube the blade it prevent the aluminum from sticking to the blade and fowling the teeth, a saw wax might be a good lube for this system and then clean the rifle when done howie
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Howie, how does the wood tool hold up to cutting steel? I have a set of these tools. Before reading I looked at the pictures and thought you had a set for steel, but you mentioned wood. I do see you mention sharpening. I guess after doing a job they need to be sharpened... Is my thinking correct on that? Frank
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I've used them for stainless as well as mild steel but they need sharpening from time to time , for sure after using them on fiber glass , I don't know for sure but I would think they should be made of tool steel the same as a drill bit so I don't have any problem using them on steel. howie
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Thank you Howie... I will be sure to use them then..... Frank
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Carbide would be the way to go..and if the ID of the cutter would be a close enough fit on a colimator collet that would be a great guide.
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I've never seen this counter sink in carbide and I've used then from 1/4 inch dia to 1 1/2 inch dia. their a woodworkers tool and they have a matching plug cutter that you can get to go with each dia. so you could plug the counter sunk screw it hide the screw.I would look in a woodworkers tool site for them not the depot or lowes. howie ps I've used them on everthing from fiberglass, stainless steel ,mild steel, wood and plastics.