GTA
General Discussion To Gateway To Airguns => Gamo Gate => : johncedarhill May 31, 2008, 07:33:34 AM
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I am almost starting to chuckle but it will take months or years to laugh about this. I don't want to make a long story about it. Basically i decided to clean the barrel just with patches. anyway the patch got stuck and now i also have a bamboo skewer stuck plus the patch he he he he. The stuck patch is about 4 inches from the breech. I took off the scope and the muzzle break. Any reasonable ideas will be appreciated. I thought if I could get the patch back to breach I could pick at it an eventually get it out. I did not want to try to shoot it out. I don't think I am chuckling anymore. You guy can laugh as you think how dumb can he be. If I weren't so frustrated with the noise I would not have ever tried to clean it etc. I would like to think I can do better than to just chuck it into a dumpster.
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Been there done that. I used a 1/8" wooden dowel (most hardware stores and sometimes walmart in the craft section). Once I didn't have the dowel handy and carefully used a cleaning rod to slowly work the stuff out.
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Cleaning rods, wooden dowel, maybe even a thin metal rod (like a wooden dowel, but made of metal). I guess if worst came to worst and it's impossible for you to get the stuff out (I don't think you could actually get it permanently stuck) you could always buy a new barrel.
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the wooden dowel is probably your best option as it will not damage the grooves of the barrel
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Hey, John, if you have a source of compressed air and a duster nozzle with a rubber tip, you could probably blow everything out. Although I'm thinking shooting it out probably isn't a bad idea, I suspect there'd be enough resistance that it wouldn't behave like a dry fire. If neither of those work, it might just be time to tear it down and do that lube tune you know you've been wanting to do anyway :-). Good luck!
Dave
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Not sure trying to fire it out is a good idea. If it is wedged pretty tight and that close to the breech it could be pretty hard on the spring. It may have the same effect as detonation. The dowel approach or compressed air is probably a better approach or a brass rod although I don't like to use any metal rod used in pellet gun barrels.
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Good luck getting it out. I would do the dowel method myself.BUT, if you pick the dumpster option, did I ever tell you that they call me 'Vinny the dumpster'?lol.
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...that their rifles could be dry-fired without damage. Since then they've changed their recommendations, but I still suspect that a single dry-fire wouldn't hurt it. BTW - if you DO try to shoot it out, make sure you still point it in a safe direction. I once shot a wad of paper-towel through a B4-2, and it was going fast enough to embed itself into a cardboard box a couple of inches from the muzzle!
You could also disassemble the rifle and push it out from the other direction. It sounds like the skewer wedged everything in there, a good poke from the other direction might dislodge it.
Then again, you might be able to accomplish the same thing with some flexible copper wire (somewhere in the 10-14ga range) or some thick plumbing solder and work it through the loading port. IF YOU TRY THIS - don't cock the rifle! Just pull the cocking lever back a bit, rotate the port open, and then let the lever come back to its rest position.
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It is cocked and it will sit till tuesday. The fact that it was cocked sort of caused me to panic and go for the skewer so that it would not set that way. I was afraid to dry fire it. I don't want to get wiped out by an air gun. I got some dowel since I did not have a small enough one at the house and brass rods on the way home. I would never have tried this but the gun was tuned (I am told last decembe) and has exhibited sonic cracking since I got it. If it did not make my ears ring yesterday I would not have tried to clean it out.
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deleted
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I thought about your deleted idea and ruled it out. Thanks for the idea though.
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One more suggestion, start soaking the blockage with some fine oil, like Rem oil. Lubrication will help the blockage slip out .Then buy a length of brass/bronze welding rod at any welding supply .Then working from the non plugged end try driving out the blockage the same way it came in, by tapping the rod with a 2x4 lightly. The bronze brass/ rod should be softer than the barrel metal. Also i would carefully round and polish the rod tip as a precaution against any barrel damage.This is a great reminder to follow Bob and Genes instruction on cleaning only with trimmer line ,it really works great and this can't happen. Also with the trimmer line I melt the end with a lighter flame to form a nub that keeps the cleaning patch on. 7MMMARK
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The trimmer line is how I got into this mess. I got some 12 inch brass rods and thinner dowels to go after it. I will try lubing. With as much goo that is in the barrel it wont make any difference. I am most concerned about it discharging--can I tape the cocking lever open?? I am wondering if I got a gun with a bad (new) seal since there is a lot more oil than I ever would have suspected.
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John, I'm not sure if you can, but try to decock it. Then you can work on the barrel, with no worries, about a discharge.
Mike
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Tried the Gamo site but could not find directions on how to decock it. In fact the directions I found did not cover the rotary breech but some sort of rising breech which described how to remove a pellet not another item.
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Try pulling the cocking arm down, hold tight and pull the trigger, then ease the arm back up. Some can be done this way some can't, don't remember on the CFX.
Mike
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The whole action will have to be removed to de cock the cfx. Unfortunately, you have to find a way to pin the anti-beartrap mechanism in the (lever closed) position to pull the trigger. I wouldn't recommend it because to get proper leverage on the rifle, you should have the action installed in the stock. There is a way to remove the anti-beartrap mechanism so the rifle can be decocked, but, it's there for a reason. I successfully blew a stuck patch out of the barrel using compressed air, but didn't have a skewer stuck with it. You may try to put a piece of heat shrink tubing on the brass filler rod idea. Good luck.
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No. The CFX has an anti-beartrap. It is possible to disassemble it to deactivate it, but it sounds like you might not wanna go there.
I'd close teh breach, point it in a safe direction, and fire. You're damaging the spring by leaving it cocked so long.
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Can I leave the breech open?? I my way of thinking I need to have the breech open to get the plug out. I am under the impression that the gun has to be cocked for the rotating breech to be opened. Is that correct?
Nothing is going to happen till tuesday anyway.
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Looks like you're going to have to work on it cocked. Not the end of the world if you remain careful and don't get frustrated. Leave the port closed. If you discharge opened, it will block the exiting air and might mess up your gun. I would get something like fairly stiff foam, say from a swimming pool noodle (great stuff for all sorts of things) and cut a thick piece to wedge in behind the trigger. Enough so that an accidental pull will not fire the gun. This will give you a bit more safety when working on it. Of course, you can do the same to the safety lever, wedging it on.
I would not put too much oil down the bore in trying to dislodge your obstruction. Unlike firearms, airguns don't do well with a lot of oil in the spring chamber. The dowel rod is maybe your best bet, although finding one hard enough for a .177 might be a neat trick. Make sure it is oak since poplar that small will be next to useless, being too light. If you have a .177 cleaning rod, you might be able to get away with a jag tip that's been filed flat. The last thing you want to do is to have the rod go off-center and wedge in amongst the other stuff. (This from muzzle loader experience.) Best thing is to go slow.
Good luck. And no more skewers. Save them for the victory barbeque when you get it cleared.
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...or at least the cocking arm pulled back a bit. Do not fire it with the breech open, especially if its dieseling at all.
If the gun is cocked and the breech doesn't wanna open, that means that the patch or skewer (or something) seems to have made it past the breech and into the rotating block.
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The skewers were the first panic attempt to remove it ASAP--but of course they failed. It would be nice if five thirty seconds dowels were available. Stupid question safety goes forward to put it on right?????? Automatic safety not so bad when you make a stupid mistake.
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John, I don't have a cfx but my Gamo 1250's move forward to fire position.(Away from the trigger.Moving toward the trigger puts it on "safe")
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John, is the skewer sticking out the end of the barrel? Can you grab it with pliers and pull it out? If so,then all you would have left is a stuck patch right?If you only have a stuck patch why don't you load a pellet and shoot.If the pellet comes out but the patch remains continue shooting until the patch disintigrates or moves forward enough that you can extract it with tweezers.
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John:
First try high pressure compressed air - 90 to 120 psi range with a blow gun. There other alternatives along this line that are not OSHA compliant that I might attempt myself but NOT recommend.
If compressed air does not push the patch out, I would recommend using 1/8" dia. brazing rod or hardwood dowel as a ramrod for a .177 cal.
Please note that the ends of both should be made flat and square.
NOTE: Under no circumstances sand or use anything abrasive on either as they will charge and likely damage the soft barrel. Also, under no circumstances put a bare brass or brass brazing rod down an air rifle barrel as the rods are likely charged accidentally already.
Using wood dowel no longer than 1 or 2" more than what will span the length from muzzle to breech, slip small as possible dia. shrink tube over the dowel. The shrink tube needs to be cut into lengths of no more than 2" long, and spaced along the dowel's length about 1/2" apart. Apply heat to shrink tight the tube. This will strengthen the dowel and keep any abrasive in/on the wood from rubbing the bore. If you incur to much "spring in the dowel, more than 1 layer of shrink tube can be used to reduce dowel flexing.
NOTE: Let the shrink tube on the ends of the dowel extend beyond the wood or brass ends to shield the bore from end edges.
Don't push a wood dowel with a bare hand. Use a hard plastic or wood push block ie. something a splintered dowel can't penetrate.
Shrink tube can be found at Radio Shack and most electrical supply houses.
Happy Airgunning!
Mike
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I agree with the last post and the shrink tubing. It is an old trick that I have used in my powder burners with success. The heat shrink will help protect the crown (which is recessed a good 1/4") and it will also give a bumper as the rod flexes inside the bore. Brass brazing rod can be picked up in any welder supply house. I believe that even Home Depot sells it. (get the uncoated bare ones). If you don't want to buy a pound of brazing rods, you can pick up a .125" brass rod at most of the big home stores for a few bucks and the heat shrink tubing will only be a few aisles away. Good luck again!
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And if you must oil the obstruction, I would opt for pure silicone oil. It is the least likely to give you dieseling problems.
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And, if nothing else works, have Gene rebarrel it with a .20 Lothar blank.