PowerLine 1000 tuning

[tjk]

Calling for high nineties today so I thought I'd get to work on the 1000. Last night I researched this rifle, so I've somewhat done my homework. Looking at the rear guide, the molded plastic guide rear stop is 'stepped up' to one sideso when the spring seats,..the whole thing doesn't line up straight. The spring and seat washers don't sit flush with the stop,... if this description makes any sense. A half washer would easily correct this (washer cut in half to fill the void) So here's a question:

Is it neccesary that the spring guide be fixed to the rear stop portion where the cross bolt holding the power plant lays?? I was toying with the idea of cutting off the whole factory guide and letting a new spring guide "free-float". I found and old guide that fits the Powerline's factory spring,....from a Marksman that Bob spun a custom guide for. if anything, maybe exopying the guide to the rest of the rear block assembly.

Any suggestions would be great!!!

As for the piston seal,..it has a good gash in it, and from reading the past posts,..it don't sound likeDaisy's too big on replacement parts!!!! Damn!!!!!! Thought of modifying and old Diana 34 seal,..but it's not thick enough and shimming the seal poses yet another problem. It was shooting in the 860/870 fps range so I guess it stays. I do have Daisy's CS # so I'll take a shot in the dark and see what happens!!!!

Thanks again, tjk

[tjk]

Saving old parts from just about everything has always been one of my "bad-habits". But today it's paid of some dividends!!!! While fooling around with this 1000, I came upon some serious road blocks. First the piston seal was less than desirable,...but it's all I had to work with. A Diana seal may have worked if I had the proper tools and materials, so a seal up-grade will have to wait. But I did come up with an idea I read on an earlier post from my research. Everything went back together in it's stock form except the rear guide. Shrink wrap was out of the question since the guide was a four sided peice of plastic. I had an old Marksman (Norica) guide left over that fit the factory spring as if it were a custom guide,...nice and snug,...almost too snug. But what to do?!?!?! Should I cut of the exsisting guide and 'free-float' this guide??? Something about permanantly destroying the factory guide didn't sit well with me. So I partially destroyed it!!!! The factory guide wouldn't fit into the hollow Norica guide,...so out comes the dremil tool and my pocket knife. I ground and wittled the four sides untill the Norica guide would slide over it freely. I omited the factory plastic guide washer and thrush washer. Now with the Norica guide and its original thrush washer I was able to get pretty close to the seat thickness. Now my biggest concern was that the guide may be too long!!! After debating to chop it,...I decided to mount the barrel back on and cock the action (trigger assembly still in a plastic bag) to see if it would give enough for the sear to catch,...this was purely a guess-work experiment. Cocked it and the piston looked like it would catch. This rifle doesn't cock as far back as the Crosmans do and I had plenty of room to spare!!! We hope that is. Next was the trigger installation. I'm still not sure how I did it,..but I got the trigger assembly back in. There's one little spring in it that's a devil to install,...but I did it,...and it was pure "Dumb-Luck" that it went in right. You can't see this spring when it's in the action. Now I kept wondering to myself,..."did I do this right"?!?!?!?! I monkeyed around with it and figured what the hell let's see if it's right,...we'll know soon enough anyways. Mounted it to the stock and half-cocked the barrel and loaded a pellet. When I finally got up the courage,...I full cocked her, knelt down on the floor in frond of my indoor trap and eased back the safety. Took a deep breath and pulled the trigger,.......What a nice little "pop"!!!! Still doubtful I tried it again,...same results!!!!!! I'm still amazed I got the trigger back together!!!! Like I said,..pure dumb-luck,...but sometimes it's better to be lucky than good!!!!!! LOL's The 1000 is a lot more smoother both cocking and fireing,..and the twang is non exsistant!!!! Still shooting about the same velocities,.....But I'm confident if the piston seal were in better shape I'd be in the 900's easy. Hit 900 with Beeman SB's,...and 830's with RWS SD's,..and 860's with the 'Peak' pellets. Think I'll pick up a tine of CPHP's and see how the 7.9's shoot tommorrow!!!! Here are a few pix of my psuedo-custom spring guide!!! tjk

[shadow]

Oh good buddy that little spring is a bugger to get back in there, you have to slid it in, hold it in place and assemble. Here's a pic of the trigger/sear layout anyway.Ed

[tjk]

Thanks Ed. I ended up turning the action over (trigger hole facing down) and sliding the assembly back in. Boy I got Lucky on this one!!!!!! Thomas

[shadow]

As long as it's working good put it in any way you can get it buddy.:) Ed

[tjk]

Ain't that the Damn Truth!!!!! LLH!!!! Goes for alot of things!!!!!!tjk

[tjk]

Thought I'd post some results and thoughts on the Powerline. After about 100 shots yesterday,...I noticed alot of dieselling. The funny part is that a majority of it is coming from within the compression chamber. The lubes were used sparingly, and like Bob has said before,..."little is better"!!!!  With the deep gash I found in the piston seal,..this leads me to the conclusion that I'm getting alot of 'blow-by' of compressed air back through the compression chamber. When I cleanned the chamber, I didn't see any burrs during inspection so I guess the seal damage occured during assembly at the factory.  Now the search goes on for a replacement seal. I found that JG Airguns sells them but not sure if they are in stock and available. We'll check tommorrow.
Also, with continued shooting, the sound level did come back up a bit. The twang and vibration have remainned minimal,....but still it's a loud rifle during the firing cycle. So here are a few ideas I'm thinking about trying. For starters, the piston in this machine is huge compared to the Gamo/Crosmans I've foolled around with. And to add insult to injury,...the top hat has alot of weight to it as well.
I'm thinking of buttonning the piston on this because it has alot of clearance between the OD of the piston and the comp chamber wall. Not sure if this will tame the noise level,..but it may help. The same goes for the top-hat as well. It fit very loosly in the piston too. Or I may try a lighter TH and install a thrush washer to ease the torque movement of the spring when fireing. As long as the buttons are sanded down to move freely, I don't see how this could hurt the performance.
Any ideas or suggestions from the PowerLine Fans would be Great. Even if you think I'm a complete idiot wasting my time! LOL's
Thanks Thomas

[ronbeaux]

Sounds like you are having too much fun!!!

[longislandhunter]

Sounds like you've already improved the rifle quite a bit,,, you should be proud of yourself..... :)

Let us know where you find a seal for it...... I have 2 of em and I'm sure sometime down the road I'm gonna need one as well....

Sounds like you're doing a great job on it,,,, I'm looking forward to following your progress  :)

Jeff

[tjk]

Thanks Guys!! Yes Siry, I've had a blast digging into this rifle, and it is alot smoother in all aspects with an "amateur tune". I will say that this PowerLine is an absolute Sledge Hammer!!!!! Probably the strongest .177 rifle I have!!!! Think I'll call it "The Judge"!!!! If I can procure a seal source, I'll buy a few for future use, and if anyone needs one, then I'll have some for others that may have a need for one as well. I'm serious though,...if it weren't for the seal damage,..this hammer would cause some major damage to any and all creatures caught within the cross-hairs!!!!! Picked up a Tasco scope at wally-world this morning and we'll see how it does with some glass. Got some CPHP's to see what we can do with 7.9 pellets as well. Let's keep our fingers crossed for some seals!!!!! Thomas
PS, Ron, I don't think the Baikal trigger is going to be too difficult to tweek!!! tjk

[joe-joe guns]

OK heres what I have done to fix a seal that I couldn't get for a super streak, it's held up over 1000 rounds so far.Loctite makes a product called "repair extreme" all temperature.It sets up to a very hard non solid ,still somewhat rubbery,kinda like a seal.I took my seal out scuffed up the damaged area then I cleaned the seal with brake cleaner and applied the "repair extreme" to the damaged area.Then to make sure I didn't build a high spot I wrapped the seal with clear packing tape to let it set overnight to cure.I know it's no replacement for a new seal but this stuff works in a pinch.
    As far as the Daisy's spring guide I made a new one from a piece of half inch rod stock with a washer welded to the end.I used the existing block and cut the rod off flush.I also buttoned the piston don't know if It helped but the gun shoots sweet as heck.

    TRY THE SEAL FIX ,IT WORKS!!

[tjk]

Thanks Frank,...I'll have to invest in some of that and give it a try the next time I have a seal problem with a damaged seal. I was able to find a seal source for the PowerLine (JGAirGuns), but still, it might come in handy with some of the lower-end relabelled Norica's like the older Beemans/Marksmans. Thanks for the tip though. tjk