AA ProSport Safety Mechanism

[TCups]

Well, I had what I can now call a "learning experience" with my AA ProSport this afternoon.  The cocking lever adjustment was a bit off such that if the air rifle is fired, the lever drops down by itself.  So, having been told by Brother Gene that it should be easy enough to adjust, I got industrious this afternoon and disassembled the AA ProSport for the first time.  The cocking lever mechanism is unique.  There is a spring-loaded lever that pivots off of one of two pins that retain the rear end of the cocking lever mechanism within an aluminum rail.  On the top-side of the aluminum block/hinge mechanism houses a blued metal lever -- a reverse sear that extends into the rear end of the cocking slot and engages the air rifles main piston unless it is pushed down. This prevents the air rifle from firing, like a bear trap mechanism, only different.  The front end of the reverse sear is pushed down by a plunger-spring-piston assembly that fits into a hole drilled into the underside of the aluminum hinge block that the cocking lever pivots on.  You can see the end of the plunger sticking out under the rear end of the cocking lever just in front of the hinge.  The "safety sear" (the blued metal rectangle just under the end of the aluminum pivot block is the front end of the safety sear) has a small OD spring under its front end that pushes the sear into the "safe" position unless the "plunger-spring-piston" assembly pushes the front end of the safety sear upward and pivots the business (rear) end of the safety sear out of the way of the main spring and piston.  

You learn this when you drive the two retaining pins out of the hinge block and the safety sear, two springs, a plunger and a small metal piston fall out on the table.  It would be prudent, here, to advise that the pins be driven out with the action laying on its side to avoid small metal parts from dropping into the spring mechanism through the cocking slot.  Re-assembly is also best accomplished with the gun horizontal, on its side using a dab of silicone grease to retain the sear spring in its shallow retaining hole and carefully aligning the safety sear, cocking lever, and front retaining pin with the plunger-spring-piston uncompressed in the hinge block.  Be sure to hold your mouth just right.  It took me 3 tries after I reasoned out how the parts had to fit.

PS:  If you don't put the plunger spring between the plunger and the small metal piston, the rifle won't fire as the safety sear stays engaged with the cocking lever closed.  Then you get to do it again with the spring cocked and a pellet loaded, since  there is no way to discharge the air rifle.

PPS:  There are no adjustments short of bending or filing metal that would seem to fix the problem for which I initially disassembled the mechanism.

[KAZ]

Thats not good. I've loved my ProSport and have managed to fire approx a hundred pellets with no drama, just joy. Now, I'll be waiting for the cocking lever to drop, and that looks like a very busy, complicated arrangement. I'll be pulling(all puns intended) for a quick fix. I took a look on AAOC and found this:
When I shoot (exactly the moment when I pull the trigger) the "underlever-arm" releases and drop down and thats very annoying (it breaks my concentration). Is this usuall, and does anybody know how to fix it?

Thanks

/erik


When the underlever is dropped down you will see the cocking arm that attaches to the compression cylinder, undo the bolt thats secures the arm to the cylinder and move it all the way back towards the butt of the rifle (it may only move a mm or so) that should solve the problem, if not try it the other way towards the barrel. Let us know how you get on. A little thread locking compound is also advisable on that bolt as its quite common for it to come loose  

Ps it is easier if you do this when the rifle is cocked, but be it on your own head, if you do it when cocked make sure you keep hold of that underlever whilst your fingers are inside the guns innards

eric reported that this fixed his cocking lever. Regards
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[Sam]

I was always suspicious of the cocking lever of the Pro Sport the minute I laid eyes on it.  For some reason I had the feeling that at any time the cocking lever will not fully close when cocked or it will drop off during firing.  I do not own one and not planning to.  That should never happen to an air rifle in this price range.

[TCups]

If the lever is pulled down, and the head of the plunger is sticking out of the block, the safety sear is engaged.  Good idea to hold the lever, but I tried firing my 3 times with the spring not properly installed under the plunger -- " click, click, click"  When the "click" happens, the spring & piston are held by the safety sear rather than the trigger mechanism.  To disengage the safety sear, you have to  re-cock the rifle by giveing it that last bit of cocking motion that results in the final "click" you hear when you cock it.

PS:  There is no forward or back play in the front bolt that retains the red washer that acts as a pad.  The bolt that fastens the lever rod to the underside of the breech end of the compression chamber is so tight that I can't easily loosen it with a 4mm driver.  I will have to get a 4 mm hex bit and a ratchet handle to loosen it, it appears.  I trust it is the second, not the first bolt that needs adjusting.

[KAZ]

One other idea:  The compression tube lug is a good place to look as Ferrets says. Also, you can remove the gun from the stock and loosen the rear lug and the front screw that holds the rail to the receiver and push the rail forward and tighten the rear lug again followed by the front rail screw. Just a very small amount will do the job in most case
Perfect advice - the problem is solved - Thanx guys!!!!
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[KAZ]

I also found this:

There is a screw that has the nasty tendency to become loose after cocking the PS. This screw is located on the "shoe" that is brought in motion by the cocking lever.
The movement is only small, but enough to prohibit the cocking lever from "locking" into position and staying there.
In some instances the "shoe" must be pushed towards the barrel end of the rifle and then tighten the said screw - in other instances, the same "shoe" needs to be pushed as far to the stock side of the rifle before tightening the screw => this is a try and test method.
So in all : lots of words to describe a quick and easy solution to that small problem.