Noobie tries his fist tune on Crosman G1 / B19

[tedshred]

Hey all,

I'm new to the world of airguns, and I've read quite a bit from this site. I purchased a Crosman G1 for cheap at a local store, have been shooting it with glee, and just bought another one ($85.) to work on to pick up some skills. It's an experiment really, but I love to tinker, and have a shop with plenty of auto, metal and wood tools to get the job done with somewhat success. Need to place an order with Maccari. More about that later.

I've got the gun disassembled and  have successfully cleaned up all the rough spots following CDT's B19 instruction.  I plan to  order a GRT III trigger soon, but wanted to see what I could do with the stock one first. I'm confused about which surface to polish on the sear. Do I polish the flat surface which faces away from the barrel, the top point, or the rounded surface? Charlie's B19 tune instructions have an arrow pointing toward the top point only, so I was hoping to get some clarity on that. Also, when the sear was originally stamped, it looks like the stamping removed some extra metal, making the sear edge somewhat lousy. I want to file it flat, but don't want to render the whole trigger assembly worthless. Will leaving the surface kinda pitted impact the smoothness of the trigger action at all? Could having less surface area on the sear actually be a benefit as there is less surface to interface?

Also, what aftermarket spring would be good for this gun?

Thanks for all your help.

Ted

[CharlieDaTuna]

Hi Ted...

You need to be careful with the seer and intermediate lever on the Chinese Gamo clone guns. The stamping is terrible and you need to be careful not to change the profile on them. If you try to take all of the pitted area out you might make it dangerous or useless. (If that happens, you can, if you have the tools, modify the slot in the intermediate lever). Just take off enough to take off any high surfaces and make it reasonably flat and don't worry about the pits or rough stamping. I don't usually use a file on the but use either wet/dry 200-400 grit paper or stone.

You want to do the surface in the seer both on the capture part and where the contact is for the intermediate lever on the top of the sear. Also the contact area on the intermediate lever. You can tell where by looking at it. There will be some shiny metal surfaces where they mate.

[mikeiniowa]

like Bob says, leave some pits etc. they hold the lube and keep it spreading through use.........it is possible to make it too smooth

[tedshred]

Charlie and Mike,
Thanks for those tips/details. I'll not remove material but will keep the original shape. I'll sand and polish up those contact areas.

[tedshred]

Here is a picture of the seer problem, let me know if you think I can remove just a little bit of the materials to get a flat surface, or if I should just leave it.

Also, the seal has a few big problems as you can see.

Finally, anybody every try this ski binding silicone spray? It's formulated for cold temps on both plastic and metal parts so it should be safe for the receiver.

[peejay]

where did you get a G1 for 85 bucks and could you get your hands on anymore?             Peejay

[CharlieDaTuna]

I wouldn't use any silicone spray at all. It has very little lubing qualities if any for the seal and has little lubricating value short term  let alone long term for meeting springer requirements. It will have no lubing qualities in the tube after the first couple of shots and be wiped clean. Then the power loss begins and  seal starts to go and the cylinder walls start to get scored.

People have a tendency to sometimes want to deviate from what works or should be used in airgun applications. I suppose that's fine it you just want to test different things but there are few things that have not been tested or toyed with over the years. But when it comes to lubes, they have been time tested by the old pros for 50-70 years and more and there are only a few lubes that really meet and exceed  the test. For the little bit that it costs and the end results that it provides, why not do it right and why use anything else. All you will have usually is poor short term results and almost certainly long term damage or wear.

[tedshred]

peejay, my local Bi Mart store had but one so I grabbed it.

[tedshred]

yep, that seal is toast. I guess I should pick up a apex small when I order the lubes from Maccari.

[tedshred]

Thanks Charlie, I'll put that can away for now. I didn't want to leave the receiver without some kind of coating while I wait for my order of lubes and seals to arrive from Maccari.

[Machinist]

Ted:
What book is that in the picture behind the spray can?
Mike

[tedshred]

I printed out CDT's "Tuning Up B18-19" (from the library link) so I would have the instruction with me in the shop while I work.

[troypla]

Another Noob here. I've been all thru the Library and can't find the link to "tuning the B19" ? Is it still there, am I blind w/enthusiasm?
I've been lurking for a while, not knowing what I want...springer, pcp, 2240 variant. Then a local free advertising paper had an ad for a high power pellet gun $50. Made the call and the decision was made for me...got a G1 Extreme w/3x9x32AO Centerpoint scope. Maybe 10 pellets thru it. Hope it isn't Hot. I'm guessing from all my reading here, it is the Wally World Special. Seems to shoot pretty good, my first Adult gun and a springer at that so I have no consistency yet. But am already excited about a Tuna Trigger and maybe a full Tuna Tune in the near future.

[troypla]

Found it. It is on Charlie's "Info" page!