RWS 48 Parts Help

[thebookdoc]

I'd like to get some parts for a gun I traded for to bring it back to spec. According to the diagram I found at UMAREX I need the following:

66-302398 cocking arm pin
76-303968 cocking pin washer
67-300457 cocking pin nut
10-303668 barrel cover
5-8 305205 front sight assembly

Here is the diagram: http://www.umarexusa.com/umarex/images/partsdrawings2/48-52-1.jpg

The following two parts are a little confusing, as one seems to be shown as the barrel, but then the other part is shown as a stub and rated by caliber:

10a-303595 barrel cover insert?
305396 .22 rifled barrel

The gun is currently a .177, and I think I want to change that to a .22. I assume that because other parts are not listed by caliber that the barrel can be swapped out for the higher caliber? Do you think I can swap it, or is it a bad idea? And what about the 3 barrel parts?

Thanks!

[thebookdoc]

Called Umarex and got it figured out. Should someone need same, it appears that 10-303668 is the barrel cover and that you do want to get 10a-303595 as well. Total cost about $27. It will cover the yellow-bluing on the barrel and bring the rifle back to standard parts -- with the replacement pin for the cocking arm and the little screw for the back of the rail (not listed, $2.75).

According to the rep, changing out to make the rifle a .22 from a .177 would cost $365 (!?!?!) as the barrel assembly comes in one piece from the factory. I can get a refurb for at least $100 less.

Now to figure out why it is shooting down and left.

This is the first post here on GTA that I didn't get any response to!

[HNT5]

IIRC, there is a outer sleeve and a inner sleeve that go over the actual barrel. I think 10a-303595 is the inner sleeve, and 10-303668 is the outer sleeve.  I recall people saying that changing out the barrel is diificult, I think it's pinned and pressed in. You're right, it may be cheaper to buy a refurb in .22 than pay someone to rebarrel it for you. The gun may be shooting low and left because the barrel was attached slightly off and since the irons are attached to the barrel they will be ok. But since the scope rail is attached to the receiver, they will be off from the barrel angle. You can try bending the barrel up and to the right to take out some of the "droop".

HTH

Nathan

[thebookdoc]

Thanks for the rundown. As far as bending the barrel, I imagine I don't want to bend it much (off 3/4 inch down and left at 10 yards). Maybe just even try disassembling and putting together when I have it apart to install the barrel covers?

Bending a barrel...I don't just put it in a vice and push, do I?!

[HNT5]

Pad the barrel in the vise real good and grab it by the end of the stock to get more leverage. Bend a little and check it out. Keep doing it a little at a time. You may find the first couple of times it doesn't move. It takes a good bit of pressure to bend it.
If you're only off 3/4 inch @ 10 yards you don't need to bend too much.

Nathan