Stuck patch and skewer in a cfx

[Splash]

Try pulling the cocking arm down, hold tight and pull the trigger, then ease the arm back up. Some can be done this way some can't, don't remember on the CFX.
Mike

[RCnMo]

The whole action will have to be removed to de cock the cfx. Unfortunately, you have to find a way to pin the anti-beartrap mechanism in the (lever closed) position to pull the trigger. I wouldn't recommend it because to get proper leverage on the rifle, you should have the action installed in the stock. There is a way to remove the anti-beartrap mechanism so the rifle can be decocked, but, it's there for a reason. I successfully blew a stuck patch out of the barrel using compressed air, but didn't have a skewer stuck with it. You may try to put a piece of heat shrink tubing on the brass filler rod idea. Good luck.

[vinceb]

No. The CFX has an anti-beartrap. It is possible to disassemble it to deactivate it, but it sounds like you might not wanna go there.

I'd close teh breach, point it in a safe direction, and fire. You're damaging the spring by leaving it cocked so long.

[johncedarhill]

Can I leave the breech open?? I my way of thinking I need to have the breech open to get the plug out. I am under the impression that the gun has to be cocked for the rotating breech to be opened. Is that correct?

Nothing is going to happen till tuesday anyway.

[RedFeather]

Looks like you're going to have to work on it cocked.  Not the end of the world if you remain careful and don't get frustrated.  Leave the port closed.  If you discharge opened, it will block the exiting air and might mess up your gun.  I would get something like fairly stiff foam, say from a swimming pool noodle (great stuff for all sorts of things) and cut a thick piece to wedge in behind the trigger.  Enough so that an accidental pull will not fire the gun.  This will give you a bit more safety when working on it.  Of course, you can do the same to the safety lever, wedging it on.

I would not put too much oil down the bore in trying to dislodge your obstruction.  Unlike firearms, airguns don't do well with a lot of oil in the spring chamber.  The dowel rod is maybe your best bet, although finding one hard enough for a .177 might be a neat trick.  Make sure it is oak since poplar that small will be next to useless, being too light.  If you have a .177 cleaning rod, you might be able to get away with a jag tip that's been filed flat.  The last thing you want to do is to have the rod go off-center and wedge in amongst the other stuff.  (This from muzzle loader experience.)  Best thing is to go slow.

Good luck.  And no more skewers.  Save them for the victory barbeque when you get it cleared.

[vinceb]

...or at least the cocking arm pulled back a bit. Do not fire it with the breech open, especially if its dieseling at all.

If the gun is cocked and the breech doesn't wanna open, that means that the patch or skewer (or something) seems to have made it past the breech and into the rotating block.

[johncedarhill]

The skewers were the first panic attempt to remove it ASAP--but of course they failed. It would be nice if five thirty seconds dowels were available. Stupid question safety goes forward to put it on right??? Automatic safety not so bad when you make a stupid mistake.

[Progun]

John, I don't have a cfx but my Gamo 1250's move forward to fire position.(Away from the trigger.Moving toward the trigger puts it on "safe")

[Progun]

John, is the skewer sticking out the end of the barrel? Can you grab it with pliers and pull it out? If so,then all you would have left is a stuck patch right?If you only have a stuck patch why don't you load a pellet and shoot.If the pellet comes out but the patch remains continue shooting until the patch disintigrates or moves forward enough that you can extract it with tweezers.

[Machinist]

John:

First try high pressure compressed air - 90 to 120 psi range with a blow gun. There other alternatives along this line that are not OSHA compliant  that I might attempt myself but NOT recommend.

If compressed air does not push the patch out, I would recommend using 1/8" dia. brazing rod or hardwood dowel as a ramrod for a .177 cal.
 

Please note that the ends of both should be made flat and square.

NOTE: Under no circumstances sand or use anything abrasive on either as they will charge and likely damage the soft barrel. Also, under no circumstances put a bare brass or brass brazing rod down an air rifle barrel as the rods are likely charged accidentally already.

Using wood dowel no longer than 1 or 2" more than what will span the length from muzzle to breech, slip small as possible dia. shrink tube over the dowel. The shrink tube needs to be cut into lengths of no more than 2" long, and spaced along the dowel's length about 1/2" apart. Apply heat to shrink tight the tube. This will strengthen the dowel and keep any abrasive in/on the wood from rubbing the bore. If you incur to much "spring in the dowel, more than 1 layer of shrink tube can be used to reduce dowel flexing.

NOTE: Let the shrink tube on the ends of the dowel extend beyond the wood or brass ends to shield the bore from end edges.

Don't push a wood dowel with a bare hand. Use a hard plastic or wood push block ie. something a splintered dowel can't penetrate.

Shrink tube can be found at Radio Shack and most electrical supply houses.

Happy Airgunning!

Mike

[RCnMo]

I agree with the last post and the shrink tubing. It is an old trick that I have used in my powder burners with success. The heat shrink will help protect the crown (which is recessed a good 1/4") and it will also give a bumper as the rod flexes inside the bore.  Brass brazing rod can be picked up in any welder supply house. I believe that even Home Depot  sells it. (get the uncoated bare ones). If you don't want to buy a pound of brazing rods, you can pick up a .125" brass rod at most of the big home stores for a few bucks and the heat shrink tubing will only be a few aisles away.  Good luck again!

[RedFeather]

And if you must oil the obstruction, I would opt for pure silicone oil.  It is the least likely to give you dieseling problems.

[RedFeather]

And, if nothing else works, have Gene rebarrel it with a .20 Lothar blank.