So I get this right

[MIKE I]

I have just recieved some JM lubes, moly, heavy tar and clear tar.

Heavy tar for the OD of the spring.

Moly for ID of spring at spring guide, spring ends, between tophat and spring, between tophat and piston.

Moly for piston thrust surfaces where it will touch walls of reciever.

Dielectric grease for seal and compression chamber

Clear tar for pivot pin and breach block thrust surfaces

Have I missed anything?

[RWS460Shooter]

Mike, Go very light on the lubes. What kind of gun are you tuning? Only use a tiny bit of moly on the side of the piston seal behind the lip. A film so thin you can see through it. Too much and you will have dieseling, smoke and inaccuracy. You don't need any on the piston except a tiny bit at the back. Go light on the heavy tar. Just use it on the outside coils of the spring. I use a pair of Nitrile gloves and put a little between my thumbs and fingers. Smear it across my fingers and pat it onto the spring moving in a circular motion and from end to end. A light even coat is plenty. Use moly on your pivot pin, breech block and thrust surfaces. Cleat tar is for moving compression chambers like on RWS 48/52/54/460 and Air Arms TX200 rifles. You don't need it for brake barrels. Dielectric grease isn't necessary. Go easy on lubing the spring guides. The thinnest film is best. HTH Rob

[MIKE I]

Thanks!  

I am tuning (re-tuning) my S1K and RS-2.  I had just done them both with materials on hand, Dielectric for the seals and JT-6 #2 for all other surfaces.  Interesting to note, I used it on both guns liberally on the piston behind the seal with absolutely no dieseling.  I can smell smoke after the firing cycle, but no loud report and both guns now group tightly.  

Taking the advice of the much more experienced tuners I ordered the proper products from JM, I would like for my guns to last and their methods are proven.