The MOST important part of rod building is finding the blank's spine. I was never any goo at that. But you flex the rod against the floor and turn it until you feel it lop into the bend. Then there's your spine. If the spine is on the wrong side, the finished rod will wanna twist when to have a load on it. Casting won't be as accurate either.
You can make a thread tensioner from a piece of threaded nylon rod some nuts and a few nylon washers. All from home depot. I built one and had it on a slider so I can keep the thread tracked while wrapping. But after a while I found that just using my fingers was easier and faster.
A small stick with a loop at the end made from an extra light gauge E string for a guitar make a great thread tieing tool. You could also make it from 1Lb mono, or even use a needle threader from a sewing kit.
The lever from a pair of Nail Clippers works PERFECTLY as a thread burnishing tool. Also a good thread cutter!
For epoxy & finish coat, you'll need a rod lathe to keep the rod spinning while it cures. Otherwise you'll get drips, blobs and thin spots. Also, when stirring your epoxy, keep the stir stick touching the bottom of the cup and stir SLOWLY to keep bubbles from forming. After the epoxy is mixed up, let it sit for a while so if there is any bubbles, they're rise to the surface and pop.
I used 20 minute epoxy for everything. It's easier to make a small batch of 20 minute then use it a few minutes before it starts to harden. 5 minute was OK, but for me it harded too fast.
A piece of Dacron line or something similar stretched tight from end to end on your jig will help to keep the eyes straight during layout. 1/8 inch masking tape from the autobody supply is really nice for holding the eyes to the rod before wrapping.
For the handle reaming, I used a homemade flap wheel reamer made from a dowel rod and a piece of 60 grit sandpaper. Just tape one edge of the sandpaper to the end of the dowel, then give it 2 wraps around. Chuck it up in a drill motor and go to town! Make sure to keep the grip tubes a little undersized so they slide on TIGHT. They loosen up over time. I used the old motorcycle grip trick to get em on and keep them there... HAIRSPRAY! hahaha. I know it sounds funny, but it works. A little aquanet helps them slide on and when it dries, it's like glue. Once you have the ends epoxied, then no worries about water loosening them up.
For finishing, I used a trick I sometimes used when I was painting bikes. I took a candle (used an acetelyene torch on bikes) and left Smoke Streaks on the rod before applying the clear coat. Gives the rod a sort of marbleized appearance.
