Took the Plung, New NPSS

[Shaky]

Well. I finally took the plung. Just came home with my new Crosman NPSS in 177. I like the carbon fiber (like) finish. The centerline seems to be a decent score for a package deal. Might change it out to the Bug Buster if it doesnt hold up. Nice crisp feel when shot. Clean bit of recoil. Everyones remarks are right about the trigger, not real hot. I see a trigger in my very near future (from all the feedback here im going to try to get the CBT!!). Ill try the sight in tomorrow and see how it does in break in. Will keep you all informed.

[LongIslandArcher]

The Center Point scope is really nice.  It won't give you any problems.  I have it on my NPSS and it's worked flawlessly and it holds zero.  You might want to tighten down all the screws on the scope mount to the dovetail though and level off the scope in the rings.  Don't tighten down on the rings too much or you'll bend the scope tube.  I invested in the F.A.T. Wrench http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/GNS103-1.html and it is the best investment I ever made.  No more bent scope tubes.  I also discovered that the tape in the top half of the rings don't need to be there, because it tends to grab the scope and turn it out of level, when you're tightening down the top ring.  The tape on the bottom half of the rings is enough to keep the scope from sliding.  This way, the top half is free to slide left or right without grabbing the scope and turning it.  Have fun with the rifle.  You should be getting around 950 fps with 7.9 grain pellets.  Also, you'll need to pick up a tube of Silicone Chamber Oil and add a drop down into the compression chamber (when you break the barrel open) to keep the piston seal lubed.  However, later down the road, you might want to look into getting some piston seal moly paste from J. Maccari (http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com) to permanently seal the piston seal to the receiver tube, but that's a project for another day with the right tools (spring compressor, deburring tool, punch tool).  

I had sent J. Maccari an NPSS piston seal for him to make tesla seals from and he said they should be available in 3 to 4 weeks, if he doesn't already have them in stock.  As soon as I get my new tesla seal, I'm dropping it in and I'll see what speed gains I'll get with it (since the stock seal on my NPSS was gouged, direct from the factory, because the receiver tube interior has sharp burrs on it and probably leaks some).  I already took the time and deburred my NPSS (as you can read from my posts about it here).  

Happy plinking!

[Shaky]

Well after better inspection in the light of day, the rifle i bought has been previously used. On my way back to the store for an exchange... URG!

[CharlieDaTuna]

I don't think I would introduce any silicone oil (or any kind of oil for that matter) into the compression chamber. It will almost surely cause combustion and/or detonation in the combustion chamber and may cause hot spots on the seal or the seal to crystallize or burn.

[Shaky]

Thanks for the heads up!Just on my way home with the exchanged NPSS. Cant wait to get it set up!

[LongIslandArcher]

Bob, silicone chamber oil in the compression chamber is specified in the owner's manual.

[RedFeather]

It's a debated topic. Some manuals also call from "spring oil". Welcome to 1955,

[CharlieDaTuna]

I don't care what the manual says, I wouldn't do it. There were a lot of manufactures out there that recommended chamber oil years ogo (it was a sales gimmick to sell cheap small doses of oil for big profits) and thousands of guns were damaged because of it. Most eventaully realized the problems and don't recommend it any longer. I worked on and repaired a  lot of guns for a lot of people because they followed the advise of people  that they thought knew what they were talking about. They were by misled and/or misinformed by others about their airguns, and especially springers.

There are some people that seem have all the answers (many of them wrong) and like to stand on a soap box and be noticed and jump on every opportunity to promote themselves or their ideas of how or what should be done and when. In most cases, those the say the most know the least and have very little or no actual hands on experience other than tinkering with their own guns. Kinda like shade tree mechanics.

[Timmyj1959@yahoo.com]

Introducing any kind of "Lubricant" into the compresion chamber of a spring piston or gas ram gun will most certainly result in deiseling and or detonation. BOTH BAD!! At best,,,, just a ruined piston seal. Or,,, a severely stressed spring. (Or broken spring) Maybee gas rams can take more abuse than springs? Uhhhhhhhh,,,, How about that compresion tube,,,, piston,,,, & seal?No lubes for me thanks. Dont ask me how I KNOW THIS first hand!!!!!LOL!! Tim.

[LongIslandArcher]

Well, I was told by Crosman themselves that only ONE drop should be used every several hundred rounds; any more than that at there will be dieseling.  Personally, I never did it to my NPSS, because I took it apart and lubed the seal with moly paste before I let it get to the point where the seal was bone dry.  But for newbies who don't have the right tools or the knowledge to take apart their guns to do the moly lube, and who shoot their guns a lot and then suddenly find that their pellets are hitting lower and lower, the chamber oil is to keep the seal lubed and pliable against the receiver tube, to prevent air leaks, or so I was told.  And maybe it's supposed to diesel to give the pellet the extra speed to hit that 1000 fps mark at which it was advertised.

We all start at some point to gain the experience and knowledge necessary.  I've got 5 or 6 guns of different types under my belt, from multi-pumps to CO2s to break barrels.  We all have to start somewhere.  I never said I know the most.  If I did, I wouldn't be here asking questions and poring over this forum looking for answers.  I know what I know at this moment in time.  I'm sure I'll learn more as I gain more experience.  Yeah, I guess you could call me a shade tree mechanic, but it was a shade tree mechanic that invented the world's first Cotton Gin, so I'm in good company.

[shadow]

Agreed introducing any lube oils into the action that shouldn't be there even though some airgun companies recommend it will fry the piston seal along with other possible damage. :0 I cringe when I see some of the lube in Gamo's that I tune then pull out a hardened glazed piston seal. :0 Ed

[CharlieDaTuna]

Yep Ed and Tim and the others, you are right. And there is nothing that upsets me more on our forum than for someone to spiel out misinformation and is the reason that some in the past were "removed" from the GTA.

 It's our intent not to let misinformation go unnoticed and to not let that information cause accidents and damage to the memberships hobby and their airgiuns.  From the beginning of our forum, we have made every attempt to protect our members from misinformation that is counter productive,damaging and possibly dangerous and will continue to do so. For those that insist and persist on doing so, it is suggested that you find another forum to frequent or call home.

[RedFeather]

In all fairness, I will say the Hector Medinez (sp?) on the Dianawerk does recommend an occasional drop of chamber oil in 54's and this guy can write the book on them, having extensive first hand knowledge. Having said that, I will add that chamber oil should be pure silicone oil - no petroleum additives!!!!! One drop every thousand rounds will probably not hurt anything and should not diesel. We used silicone oil in the Navy on high pressure hydraulic systems (extremely critical systems, I might add) specifically because of its very high flash point. I imagine it's the last "oil" to diesel. Still, with modern seals being what they are, it's probably like throwing salt over your left shoulder. The materials used have a fairly high lubricity, so how much additional lube do you really need? Remember, Crosman sells chamber oil for quite a few dollars per ounce. Take it with a grain of that salt. And, should you do a moly lube of the seal, you won't need any, as mentioned above. It is amazing that some many Gun Gurus, some with prominent blogs, still recommend this stuff.

[Progun]

Right you are Bob. I think a lot of the misinformation concerning chamber lubes even when it  comes from the manufacturers own manuals and literature is due to the reasons you stated .The  other reason we still see these "maintenance" lubes mentioned in even brand new guns manuals is also attributable to when so many guns had leather seals that would dry out and need refreshing  occasionally. But with modern synthetic seals that never dry out or need a good oiling,it does seem disingeneous for manufacturers to even make mention of such counter productive  "maintenance" lubes such as silicone oil chamber lube much less selling such products with a recomendation to actually use it in synthetic sealed spring piston guns.That's part of what makes the GTA forums such a Great place to learn about airguns and shooting them.We through our collective experience can pass along some grief saving and gun saving information to the new generation of our sport.Consider it Gospel fellow shooters....It's not really a good idea to put combustables in the compression chamber of your spring piston airguns.Those "fast eddie" and slick 50 ideas usually shorten the useable life of modern synthetic sealed air guns.

[LongIslandArcher]

Right, and my RWS 350 came with a bottle of silicone chamber lube, but I've never used it and I just replaced the seal with a J.Maccari tesla seal with moly paste.  That was a learning experience.  The whole trigger assembly comes out as a whole and is retained with 2 pins, not like the Gamos where they use a 1/4" thick backplate with one retaining pin, and the trigger assembly slides in before that.  Every break barrel or piston driven air rifle I get from now on will get the works - debur, seals, moly paste and gas ram or Vortek Pro-Guide.