I BOOFED UP !!!

[shady816]

after reading through the cfx plastic trigger post I believe I have a answer to problem that has me ready to throw my cfx in the trash. I recently had my cfx apart for all new seals and a good deburring and such and after reading all the literature I could find I began the job after deburing I posted how smooth should I get the tube and compression chamber after a week I decide ( IT MUST BE A DUMB QUESTION NEWBEE) so I proceed to polish this thing out till you could use it as a mirror. I reassembled the gun and off to the range first shot WOW this thing goes sonic with 7.9's I must have did a great job and this goes on for 30 or so pellets and stops. I'm thinking must be settling down now groups came together and life was great again and after a week or two it appears to be getting weaker and weaker now back to the drawing board so I pull it apart all looks great reassembled WOW we need hearing protection to shot indoors again 30 shoots later it stops again and begins the process again so we tear it back apart this time I sit for days studying all the parts thinking something has to be wrong why can I not see it. I began to miss my gun so I put it back together and would you know we need hearing protection again now I know you truly do not want it to go that fast and I general would shot heavy pellets on the norm knowing that would slow it down though the groups are good after about 75 shots I would like to do more than render squirrels unconscious with pellets. now after reading the previous post cfx trigger I see Charlie mention 440 being to smooth so I am going to go out on a limb here and say 1500 must be entirely to smooth and could this be why I keep getting the sinario of start strong and finish week I mean I can see the pellet arc to the target and takes all mills in my scope at fifty with a 30 yard zero.

[shadow]

Too smooth, not holding the lube in the proper hone therefore not keeping a consistent compression, fps drop after shooting some rounds through it. Ed

[shady816]

i guess i should rough it up with 320 and get back out there.

[shadow]

Now remember when going back in to hone some more to check the piston seal for fit in the compression chamber. The ID of the chamber may be oversized now and require a slightly larger seal. Ed

[shady816]

Thanks for the tip i will be for sure to check that out.

[Uncle J]

Don't feel bad everyone makes mistakes and experience is a very good teacher,  I'm fairly new here myself and was wondering how you honed the chamber, did you use a wheel cylinder hone or something similar. That part of my whisper had already been done by Gene when I went to tune it.

Jeff

[shady816]

I use a brake cylinder hone to start then used a wooden dowel with a slot cut for the paper chucked into a drill  and wet sanded started with 320-400-600-1200-1500 it came out like glass but obviously that is way to smooth for the compression chamber.

[Bogey]

Well Robert,  Welcome to the World of Live and Learn.    The only people that don't make mistakes are the ones who never do anything.   Maybe you have figured out your compression  problem.

[shady816]

I am never afraid to try this lesson at least has not hurt anything as of yet any advise on should I just use the cylinder hone again or just rough it up with 320 paper on the dowel.