I bought a Daisy Powerline 1000WS .177 for under $100.00. Like most springers I buy, I always want to find ways to improve their
performance.I have tuned a couple of these models in the past and was quite impressed with the triggers and shooting cycle after I had
tuned them. So I decided to buy one for myself and maybe do a bit of R&D on it.
After my new Daisy arrived I cleaned her up as usual and took some shots. After the smoke cleared I run her accross the chrony. I was
pushing the 8.3 JSB's accross the chrony at almost 1100 fps. Like always those numbers do not mean much, do to the fact that most
Chinese guns have nicks and chunks missing from the seals, which allows lube to be sucked up into the combustion chamber.
I did notice that there was no spring twang/buzz, which meant that it must have some lube on the spring. This Daisy Powerline felt
pretty good to shoot.
On the bench I started the tear down proceedure. Now the parts are all out and on the bench. I could see that yes the spring did have
some Chinese recycled binjo ditch lube on the spring. The piston and seal looked almost black. I could not tell if the seal was messed
up untill I wiped her down and there were several scrapes and cuts lines in the seal from where the piston was installed at factory.
Like I said before, this is not unusual and the action with the cutouts and slots had plenty of burrs.
After looking at the spring guide/trigger block assymbly I remembered this was a rather cheap set up. This is what houses the trigger
group itself. Not a bad design but the plastic was cheesy...:) and it was very loose fitting in the action. Not to mention the spring
guide fit way loose in the spirng.This is similar to the RWS design except instead of it being all one piece they made it a two piece
design. Don't take that wrong..:) I am not comparing the overall trigger group with RWS but merely the way it was designed.
Now is where the meat and potatoes comes in sort of speak..:)
A complete trigger block and spring guide refit. I started out with a 1.125" diameter by 5" long piece of 6061 aluminum. I did all my
calulations off of the old plastic trigger block. Instead of a loose fitting piece of plastic I will make a solid fitting replacement
out of aluminum and delrin.
The process was quite simple and what I wanted to do close the gap on the original tolerance. In doing so I also would incorporate
delrin in the process. After I had the trigger block/spring guinde finished, I then checked it in the action for proper fit. Once that
was done I then wanted to close the tolerances in.
I prepped the spring ends and chucked a 1/2"X5" round piece of delrin up into the lathe. I drilled a hole down the center of it just
under the size of the trigger block spring guide shaft. Once that was done I then pressed the delrin onto the spring block guide.
Chuck the whole thing up into the lathe and turned the guide down to fit the spring.
I could of cut the O/D of the aluminum trigger block and guide assyemly to fit in the action. But here is where the RWS design comes
in.RWS uses a plastic outer sleeve on there trigger block assymbly. So this is what I did. Instead of plastic I used delrin because I
have plenty of it on hand and it machines very good.
I machined a piece of delrin to fit around my aluminum trigger block. After this was finished I checked whole fit with the tigger group
in the action. Installed the cross pin also. Now she is done...:)
Below I have taken some pictures of the
process.
