Gamo Whisper Factory Scope

Anyone else besides me having problems with their Whisper's accuracy?  I have tried to sight this rifle in on 6 different occasions.  I am shooting at 25 yards from a bench rest.  The best i can get is a group of about 6 inches with any type of pellets that I try.

I have tried:
Gamo Match
Gamo Hunter
Gamo PBA
Crossman Non-Lead Hollow Points
RWS Super Dome

The Gamo PBAs are the worst, they mostly hit the paper sideways instead of punching a round hole.  I have also noticed that it looks as if the scope or scope rail is 'cocked' to the side maybe one or two degrees compared to the barrel.  I verified this by shooting at 25 yards and at 10 feet.  At 10 feet my pellet groups on average hit about 1/2 inch to the right, at 25 yards they hit about 2 inches to the left.

I also noticed that if you hold the gun down in a bench rest and move your eye an inch up/down/left/right, it actually moves where the crosshairs are on the target.  I do not have this with any of my .22 scopes.  Also, I cannot seem to get the crosshairs and the target to both be in focus no matter how much I adust the rear portion of the scope.  Turning the mag down to 3X helps somewhat.

Does anyone have any suggestions other than throwing the scope and scope mount in the garbage?  

I'm going to try the iron sights tomorrow and see if I can get any kind of accuracy with them...

[leftcoast1]

that is a common problem with all the gamo guns. Try taking it all apart remove the riser block and attach the mount directly to the gun provided there is room. Remount the scope then try it again. That fails call gamo and see if they will send you a new scope and mount. I have the same problem with a couple scopes with the target and crosshairs not in focus together never could get it fixed.

[CharlieDaTuna]

From what you are describing, it sounds like it may be a parallax problem. I think I would check that before I did anything else.

[shadow]

Yup that's what I was thinkin too. Ed

Ok, i did a little reading on the parallax you talked about.  Here is the best article I could find on it...

http://www.lasc.us/RangingShotRifleAirGunScopes.htm

To quote the article specifically:

"The key word here is parallax free. So what is parallax? As I explained in my series of articles on hand gun scopes earlier this last year, parallax is an optical condition in which the optical plane of the image and the optical plane of the crosshairs are not the same. The effect is that any little head movement on your part while looking through the scope will cause the apparent location of the  target to move.  In other words, when your head is in one location the target will appear to be in one place in relationship with the crosshairs, and if you move your head slightly, it will move to another location. On some poorly designed or constructed scopes the movement can easily be 18 inches.

Rifle scopes without an adjustable objective lens on the front are engineered to be parallax free at 100 yards. When used at distances shorter or farther away than 100 yards, parallax will be introduced onto the image to some degree depending on the distance to the object being viewed."



This would lead me to believe one of two things.

1.  This Gamo scope may not be parallax free at the distances I'm shooting at.  It's not adjustable for distance and the problem seems to get worse at 9x that it is at 3x.

2.  I may have created this problem by attempting to adust the rear eyepiece on the scope.  I still cannot get both the crosshairs and the target image to be in focus at the same time (with or without my glasses on) not matter how much I rotate the eyepiece in either direction.

 I may also be adding to the problem by not always putting my face in the same spot on the stock.

The only thing i can think of doing is mailing my Rifle in to Gene (just kidding).  He seems to be the best shot ever with the Gamo Whisper!  I think the review of it, where you guys have 10 shots through the bullseye was with a really good scope though, not the Gamo Scope.

Maybe I'll send an email to Gamo and ask if the scope is parallax free at 10 meters...

So what do I do as a solution to my parallax problem?

[crazy4salmon]

I just put CDT's trigger in my new Whisper, and cant wait to see what that does to my accuracy. I personally think you should ask Gamo for a new scope. The one that I have is clear and focuses in just fine. At 20 yards I have been shooting groups around 1 1/2 inch or so (100 pellets total through the gun). Thats yanking on the old trigger. I have yet to really dial the scope in. The weather here has been wet and windy since Santa brought it down the chimney. Will be very interesting to see if the scope will hold together or not. I've  been eyeing a Centerpoint tactical scope. :p Hoped this helped some. P.S. The GRT-III trigger is sweet. After the 15 minute install tonight had to test fire into a log out back. The difference is night and day. :emoticon:

Dan L

[rkr]

You can adjust the parallax to the range you shoot most at by rotating the front lense in/out.

[98 SNAKE EATER]

The only problem I had with the stock scope was the scope stop coming loose, but a little threadlocker (which I should've added in the first place) was an easy fix  

I shoot @ 100 yards and it always held zero without issue (even when randomly adjusting MOA and back)

I have since moved up to a Center Point that I won in a contest and the Gamo/BSA scope now sits on my G1





Rick

My CDT triggered Whisper wouldn't group anything but RWS Super Mags until I had about 800-1000 pellets through it. Now it groups most anything well, especially CPLs.

cover objective lens (front lens) with a piece of a white plastic bag, so you can see the cross hairs but not any thing else through the scope

now place the rifle on a rest and with both eyes open one looking through the scope at the cross hairs  as normal and with the other eye look at an object that is at your typical shooting distance

now adjust the ocular bell (rear lens) until the cross hair is in sharp focus, make sure that your eye is relaxed and not forcing the cross hairs into focus, close your eyes for a few seconds and when you open them the cross hair should be in perfect focus immediately, if it takes a moment or two your eye is forcing it into focus and so more adjustment is needed

once the cross hair in in focus lock, mark or remember its position so you will not have to do this again, this is now set and should need no further adjustment for a long time

remove the plastic bag from the objective

now set up something like a newspaper at your shooting distance and look through the scope (as normal) if the image is not in focus and your scope is fitted with parallax/ focus adjustment (usually fitted to objective bell and has range markings) turn the bell one way or the other as required until the target is in focus

if your scope has no parallax adjustment either on the ocular bell or on the saddle  (on the opposite side to the horizontal cross hair position adjuster), turning down the magnification (if fitted) may bring target into focus

if not then your scope is not suitable for use a  that (usually very short) distance and you can experience misses due to parallax error

to check for parallax, set up scope so it cannot move and point it at a distinct target, now move your eye up, down, left, right if the crosshair appears to move then the scope is not parallax free at that distance
so if  shooting, each time you place the crosshair on the target the gun maybe pointing to a different part of the target, which of course results in lots of Misses and trying to use a scope like this will harm your eyes as they will try to force the target into focus which will then cause the crosshair to go out of focus and on and on

hope that's some use to you
fin

[JTK]

Hi, if the scope does not have adjustable objective(will be the front bell turning) then you have to practice putting your head at the same spot every time. To do this tape something to your stock where you head rests like maybe a safety match so that you can see it when your head is against the stock right next to your eye. Put your head on the stock and see if the match is in the same place. Anyways.. Form what you discribe you have paralax problems. try shooting a grouping at 40 Yards and see if it gets better than that. I think if you rest the stock on your hand, on a sandbag you should be able to easily group 2-3inches on 40 Yards even if you cannot shoot that well. Also your stck trigger may be about 2inches of your grouping. Get a GRT-III or take the trigger mech off and polish the parts that contact each other. Then replace the adjustment bolt with a longer one to reduce creep. Make sure you dont adjust it to short. Turn it to where the rifle does not cock then about 1/3 turn out should do. Polish the parts in this photo. Make sure you use a square item to sand it like a stone of fine grit. Do not bevel or round the corners! keep them square!

I still have paralax problems myself.. it takes practice. I can still easily at 10m get bet better groupings with the open sights than with scope. Go figure. Fortunately  the further the distance the better the scope

Maybe shoot a 10shot group and post it. the guys here wil be able to tell you where your likely problem is if it is not paralax.

JT

[Izzie45895]

You may have other issues also, but I can guarantee that if you have the same 3-9 scope that came on my shadow sport, it's pretty much worthless. BIG TIME parallax issues. The one I have is only usable on 3x at 20 yds. My rifle now has a BSA 2-7x32AO on it. Get a good AO scope, it'll make a heck of a difference.

Iz

Wow, that is some really helpful information about sighing in scopes.  As soon as it warms up, I'm going to give the factory scope one last try.  If it doesn't improve, I'm just going to slap a Bushnell Trophy on it.  It's a little on the pricey side but I have one on my .22 rifle and I really love it.