B3-1 Tuning

[hyounker]

Hey John,

Where did you get the buttpad that you have on the Industry Brand in the picture?

I'm looking to add a little length to my B3 and that looks to be perfect.

THanks,

[70GTvert]

That, sir, is the buttplate off a Gamo Big Cat. I have a Big Cat that I wanted a wood stock for, so I bought one from Gamo, the 440. Fits like a glove (some said that plastic cover needs tweaked, but I had no issue). So....look at the one on your Big Cat synthetic stock, look familiar? One and the same. I sanded off the carved in "tread" in the B3 wood stock and added this. As I was refinishing the B3 stock at the time, I was able to do some better match up. Still not a perfect fit at the end, but close enough for my tastes.

[ronbeaux]

Great picture!!!!

I got mine apart and all lubed up but every time I put it back together it won't cock. Goes about half way and acts like something is stopping it from going further.

I know I'm missing something in the procedure but can't figure it out. I've had the trigger in and out in and out and it seems simple but I guess not to me.

Any ideas???







Did I miss a step?? EVERY SINGLE PART is back on the gun so none flew out the door when taking it down.

[shadow]

B's they love to be tuned and can be smooth and accurate for such a cheap shooter. Done a few myself hehehe. One of my B gal's below, she's had lot's of TLC inside and out. Ed

[ronbeaux]

Never mind!!! Turns out I was doing everything right. The reason it was only cocking half way was because the side screws that hold the stock on the barrel were too long. Now these were that same screws I took out, but I remember them being very loose. The reason they were loose is because they were too D******** long and they knew it when they shipped it!!

Works perfect now with a little Dremel cut off action on them!.

[shadow]

Check the cocking arm where it slides back and forth in the slot, it might be catching on something in there. Also one thing that I came across was that the front stock screw's where in so close to the cocking arm that they were catching the cocking arm. I figured it out , flipped it over and watched what was going on. Keep us posted buddy we'll figure it out. Ed

[ronbeaux]

Read above. You called it. Great minds think alike!

This baby shoots nice and smooth and quiet! Will poke holes through and through a beer can at 10M... In the dark I might add.

[shadow]

Great you found the problem.  One of my B's did the same thing and I just cut em back with a dremel, cleaned up the thread's and was good to go.Ed

[70GTvert]

Run some electrical tape across one side of the trigger housing, it will hold those pins in and won't show up when together like some tape of another color can. Ever since I bought the pair of Beemans that do not have bear traps, I've removed them from my others so I can de-cock them. The only thing they do is prevent you from shooting during the cocking cycle, so as long as your keeping fingers off the trigger, it won't hurt safety and it is nice to be able to do that without shooting.

[hyounker]

Ron,

Though I lack the experience that John has, I will agree with him.  Removing the bear trap, if only temporarily while tuning and disassembling and reassembling, definitely made things smoother.  You simply remove that short flathead screw, the piece it holds in place (with the two short springs), that sliding bar that slides back into the trigger when cocking, and the forwardmost pin in the trigger group.  I removed mine and never put it back.

But, as John has said, be careful.  That mechanism blocks the trigger when the action is open so that the trigger cannot be pulled causing the cylinder to slam forward, seperating you from your fingers as you load a pellet.  If you remove the bear trap (or even if you don't!), make sure you have a firm grip on the cocking lever handle AND that the buttstock is under control and cannot slip and swing off your hip suddenly, closing the action.

[scanb3]

Dimensions:

M5:  14,9 mm x 1,2 mm

M6: 17,9 mm x 1,6 mm

[rr_shooter]

Thanks!

[Gene_SC]

And yes my B-3 has been totally tuned and moded and it shoots hard and pretty accurate with RWS Superdomes.  Ed turned us all on to how neat it is to tune a B-3 and there are hundreds of mods you can do inside and out on them..

[gosciu555]

rr_shooter - 10/6/2008  7:52 PM

I'm taking apart my first B3 and starting on the trigger.  It's somewhat difficult for me to visualize the operation of the trigger because of the stamped housing.  Does anyone know of a diagram that shows the engagement of the sear with the piston and the contact surfaces between the trigger and the sear?  Or, maybe just a figure that shows which surfaces need to be polished in order to smooth the trigger operation?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Be careful though, foreign airgun blog posted this story. Pics>words X 1000.
http://www.airguns.pl/porady-sprzet-obcinaczka-palcow

Went off because of a loose screw .

[scanb3]

I have thought trigger mods to B3 now and then. One day I figured out this. If angles in piston and sear (is it sear) are changed like in picture, we reduce load towards trigger (force vector Fd). In my understanding that mean less friction between trigger and sear and that way lighter trigger. Is this old idea and is it already tried?