Getting started

[hyounker]

Just started this whole airgunning thing myself.  I will benefit from the lists in this post, myself.  I started my tuning experiences with a B-3.  You'll need to accumulate the right lubes.  I ordered these:

Lube Kit from JM:  http://www.airguns.citymax.com/catalog/item/251484/4169286.htm

Silicone Shock Oil:  Bought this on eBay.  I bought 40wt.

Neatsfoot Oil:  For leather seals.  Bought this at Wal-Mart.

30wt Non-Detergent Motor Oil:  Again, Wal-Mart.

I used my parts washer extensively to get parts down to bare metal, especially Chinese parts:  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7340

And a deepsink to wash things with soapy water to get the cleaner off them, and an air compressor to dry them.

I had some large blocks of cedar, so I used them to build my first spring compressor.  I don't recommend cedar, as I have beat it to death in very short time.  I am building another out of oak that I have salvaged from pallets.

Latex or some other disposable protective gloves to keep lubes, especially moly, off your hands.

I've also found that a set of needle files that I purchased at Home Depot several years ago have come in very handy when deburring.

Lots of wet/dry sandpaper and some really good, flexible lighting.

An endless supply of notepads to keep good notes.  I bought some kitty litter pans from Wal-Mart to help me keep track of parts and put the aforementioned muffin pans inside them to keep track of smaller parts (pins, screws, springs, etc.) And a digital camera to document your accomplishes and share them with the rest of us!!!

Good luck and please post your progress with the TF97.  I'm sure I'll benefit from your experiences as much as I have the others!

[ronbeaux]

Thanks guys for all the great suggestions!!

Built the work bench today. It's 38.5" high and 3ft deep with a 1ft by 8ft shelf above it. I know It's sturdy cause I had to climb on it to instal the top shelf! Framed with 2x6 lumber with a 3/4" top and treated 4x4 legs in case I get water on the floor over the years.

3ft is no problem for me to reach the back wall. I also picked up some punches and some Allen wrenches today as well as some more screw drivers.

Here she is;





Not ready to start just yet. I gotta get lubes and some tools for polishing and..........................................

[ronbeaux]

More update.

[billharmon2]

If you are going to use those bar clamp parts for a spring compressor make sure you make something to hold the action to the bar so it does not try to rise up out of the clamp when you compree the spring. Nice Bench. I always build my own too.

[ronbeaux]

Well I got the bar clamps and I'm still not sure they will work right. So they may take a back seat. I want to make sure I have no problems removing and replacing the spring without having to have three hands.

Any suggestions??

Send pics.

[billharmon2]

I made a spring compressor similar to the one that is in the library from Charlie. You do have to allow for the amount of preload on the sping so you have enough travel on the clamp to completly release the spring before you run out of travel. It did take some trial and error. I did find that with a clamp holding the action steady it was easy to decompress the spring

[hyounker]

The refrigerator is IMPORTANT.  I keep "pain reliever" in mine.  You may want some band-aids and neosporin too!

Also, will that fence stop a 7.9 gr. pellet traveling at 700-1000 fps?  LOL!  You may find out one day!!

That work bench seems long enough to be able to shoot on.  I put my rest in line with my chronograph and a cardboard box full of rags as a pellet trap (test it outside first).  I am able to fire pellets well into the wee hours of the night.  You need lights on the chronograph to shoot indoors.

I also used the plans that Charlie has in the library for the spring compressor.  Those plans are somewhat difficult to understand when it comes to the holes and whatnot that hold the action in place.  I sort of took my B3 apart and built my spring compressor all at the same time, so it would all make sense.  I am building my second spring compressor several inches longer than that one and I am putting holes in the base so that I can firmly attach it to the workbench so that it doesn't bow under the pressure of the springs.  Two holes in the middle, as the ends don't bow up.

Looking good so far!

[TCups]

Ronbeaux:

You need to wire that work bench with at least 4 two outlet grounded 110V power outlets now, before it gets covered up.  And you need to hang two bright fluorescent light fixtures overhead.  But the Fridge is a good idea.

[ronbeaux]

Good call on the plugs T man! I've already tripped over cords once too many times today.

Got the vice mounted this afternoon.

I must be plum stupid when it comes to a spring compressor cause I can't get past go on building one. I guess I need to see an airgun locked down in one so I can get a better picture. I was thinking I could smash it together from the barrel to the end cap????? Trust me, the last thing I want to have happen is the spring go flying taking out things in it's path, especially ME!


Can anyone help out as to which spring from JM I can use on this? I didn't see the 97 listed.

Also can someone explain what the heck clear and black tar are for and if I might need it? I've read about it here but I think I missed where and how much you would apply.

I hope I'm not bothering you guys. Just having a mid life "I gotta try this" moment.

I'm heading back out there and crank up Bob Marley on the Bose. Plus that is where all the pain killer is.

[TCups]

Clear tar looks about like vasiline petroleum jelly -- perhaps a little thicker.  It is a lubricant.  Heavy (black) tar indeed looks like tar - thick and sticky.  It is used sparingly on the spring to reduce vibration and "twang".  Moly is a metal to metal surface lubricant.  It is silver-gray in color and has a bit of a gritty consistency.  It works like ball bearings, though, and is used t lubricate surfaces were metal to metal friction under heavy pressure occurs.  CDT has a pretty good link in the library explaining lubricants.

[ronbeaux]

Ordered the lube kit this morning. Also scrounged up some big tubs for parts washing. Also sacrificed a boiled crawfish serving tray to place all the parts in so they don't skoot away.

Thanks for the help!

[TCups]

Love those mud bugs.  Now get to work on that spring compressor.  Mine was (is) a work in evolution.  see:
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=8502&posts=16&highlight=spring%20compressor&highlightmode=1#M64317

[DanoInTx]

Screwdriver set, band-aids, and a dog.  Screwdrivers to start taking things apart, band-aids to patch up your leg from where the dog bit you when your screwdriver slipped and scratched the blueing:)

[ronbeaux]

Well I took the advice here when using a bar clamp for a spring compressor and added a large C clamp and some wood to hold the action in place. BRAVO! No problems getting the spring out at all.

Got all the parts cleaned up real good and finished polishing the cylinder and de-burring it. The spring guide is plastic?? The spring has a slight bow to it?? The piston seal is leather. And it sure seams like I got more parts laying out than I took apart??

I think I have done all I can do with the tools that I have now unless there are some other suggestions. I can't make a spring guide or shims/spacers yet. I read where it is advized to polish the ends of the spring so I did, but also to polish where it rests on the guide and in the piston. Can't reach where it rests in the piston????