This was an email I originally sent to DaveD, but then I realized that maybe other people would want to read it too, especially since Dave hasn't even written me back....so here it goes:
Trigger bliss!!!! No diagram, but for the third time since I've owned it I took it all down again and started fooling with the trigger....this time I went a little further in dissassembly. Here is the updated adjustment sequence:
Small screw in front is 1st stage takeup. Small adjustments go a LONG way, I got rid of 99% of my first stage with just 1 turn.
Second medium screw is 1st stage adjustment, you can actually adjust this in till the gun wont cock, or till you have no second stage till after the gun fires.
Third medium screw is 2nd stage adjustment/travel, here's where you can get rid of some creep(may have to move the trigger shoe to get to this screw).
The last tiny screw IS in fact a trigger stop, you have to tighten this one way down before it'll do anything though
The allen screw that is in the trigger gaurd at the far after end is the trigger weight, adjust it too far out and it falls out in your hand, adjust too far in and the spring may wind around it. This is an allen head set screw with a little plunger tip on it that the spring rides on. This spring is called out as "second stage trigger pull" or something in the manual, it actually effects BOTH first and second stage weight.
The trigger shoe gives more leverage the further aft it sits on the little dovetail, kinda bad when you get the trigger all setup, then adjust the trigger shoe to fit you and and everything feels different than how you set it up:(
Here is how I think it should be adjusted.
Remove the air cylinder. Remove the stock.
Remove trigger guard, spring will come out with it under the far afterwards screw, put in safe place. You'll notice that the trigger still has spring to it, that's because there is a second spring...probably why some say it isn't a true 2-stage trigger, but both 1st and 2nd stage screws DO move the sear, that means it's a true 2-stage trigger, has nothing to do with if it has an extra spring for "feel"....could probably nip this spring down a coil or two and get a REALLY light trigger, but I'm not messing with it. The other spring, the one they call "2nd stage weight" is actually the spring acting on the sear, the other acts only on the blade/dovetail. Remove the trigger shoe, it's in the way from here on out.
The edge of the trigger dovetail has a little groove in it that tends to hang up on the side of the reciever, to remedy that you have to adjust the small front screw in far enough that the groove isn't visable while looking from the side of the reciever....this is why my trigger felt gritty and un-predictable, I was pulling the trigger till I felt that groove catch the edge of the reciever and thinking it was my second stage, then pulling through that and popping through the true second stage....yes, the S200 has a true 2-stage trigger despite any other references. So backoff the other screws a bit and adjust the forward tiny screw till the dovetail rocks aft and edge is out of sight, problem solved.
Now adjust the rearmost tiny screw, the one I couldn't decide if it was a screw or a hole, it IS in fact a trigger stop. You'll have to turn this one in till it almost dissapears before it actually stops anything. I adjusted mine till it was about 3 turns from completely going through the dovetail, should really be a longer setscrew, may replace it at a later date. If you didn't do it while adjusting the front tiny screw, adjust the two middle medium screws out a few turns now.
If you look just aft of the dovetail you'll see where the "2nd stage weight" screw rides on the sear, push the sear down at that spot ( I used a small allen wrench)and cock the gun (did you remove the air cylinder? If not do it now and be sure you are unloaded).
While pushing this down, with the gun cocked, push the dovetail down like you would be pulling the trigger till it hits the stop. If you backed out the two medium middle screws the gun should not fire. While still pushing on the sear start tightening down the front medium screw till the gun fires, then back off one turn. Repeat cocking procedure, and push dovetail again, gun should not fire, if it does the forward medium screw is still too tight, back off in 1/2 turn increments till it consistantly does NOT fire. Now, cock the gun again, and while pressing on the sear, tighten the rear medium screw till the gun fires, then tighten 1/2 turn more. Reinstall trigger shoe, but leave loose. Reinstall spring and trigger gaurd. Remove aft spring "plunger" screw till it comes out, then reinstall and tighten 3 full turns, make sure the spring lines up with the tip of the screw during re-installation. Reinstall stock.
Shoulder rifle, adjust trigger shoe till it fits you right, but remember, the further aft the lighter the pull...mine is fairly far aft, but still comfy.
With air tube still un-installed, cock rifle and slowly pull the trigger, you should have a really light 2-stage trigger. It may be hard to feel the 2nd stage at first, but you should feel it pretty well after a try or two. If you really can't feel the 2nd stage then you will need to tighten the rear plunger screw a 1/2 turn at a time till the weight and feel is right for you. If you pull the trigger and the gun doesn't fire, loosen the trigger shoe and slide forward, and tighten the rear medium screw till the gun fires with the trigger pulled then 1/2 turn more. Tighten the rearmost screw in the trigger gaurd till the feel and weight are right for you, I left mine in about 4 turns, but I shoot from a bench, if you are going to hunt or carry this gun in the field you will want a heavier trigger.
With the trigger setup this way you should have a light, short first stage, a short/sharp/crisp second stage, and very little trigger blade movement after the gun fires.
Amen!
