WALTER FORCE 1000 SEAL MATERIAL

[7MMMARK]

HELLO GENTLEMEN,     A FRIEND IS GOING TO HELP ME TEARDOWN MY WALTERFORCE 1000 ( SAME AS TF89)  AND I WANT TO DO A SIMPLE LUBE TUNE WITH ORIGINAL PARTS. CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT KIND OF SEAL I WILL FIND IN THIS GUN ? LEATHER? SYNTHETIC?  ALSO ANY HINTS , OR SUGGESTIONS WHILE I AM IN THERE ?  MOSTLY I WANT TO TAR/GREASE THE SPRING . THANKS MARK

[bearded_spock]

I have a Beeman RS2 (same thing as TF89, Force 1000, Hammerli Titan, etc...) that I tore down recently.  The seal is synthetic.  Be aware that the trigger group is what the spring guide is resting against so you'll need to fabricate a tool to get around the trigger group and pins to relieve spring tension before driving out the two front pins.  Its kind of tricky the first time you try it.  GTA member 70GTvert made a very good tool for the job out of a deep-well socket using a grinder.  Also, don't try it without a spring compressor, the spring has quite a bit of preload!  The pins only come out one way, one side is knurled and one side smooth - drive them out from the smooth side.  Based on what I found inside mine I would recommend that you deburr the cocking slot and trigger group cutout as best you can before you pull the piston to avoid cutting the seal on the way out.  I polished the spring ends, tophat, and rear thrust washer with fine grit sandpaper and did a more-or-less standard lube job on mine.  Made a world of difference and I got a pretty decent increase in power as well.

[billharmon2]

If you need seals. You can get them from Umarex or Compasseco. They don't list them on the sites you have to call them. I inqured at both places and this is the answer I got. I have a Pair of RS2 rifles and they are good guns. Compasseco also sells the trigger to this gun for $25.  I did not think to deburr those areas before removing the piston. Luckily it didn't acuse any damage. I will do it when i take the .22 version apart.

[Gene_SC]

Sometimes on these models because of poor tolerances seals are way loose in the compression chambers. In these case's I find it necessary to manufacture a parachute seal custom fit to the bore. I only make these seals for customer tunes and do not sell them. The reason for this is because each time I make a seal for one of these models it is specific to piston and compression chamber fit.

Also these models are comparable to the power range of the RWS 350 series air rifles when tuned. The triggers are very good triggers to work on.

My first experience was on a Beeman GH 950. Could not believe how much power it had after a tune.

[70GTvert]

Here is an alternative to replacing the seal if the seal does not fit well. Find a washer about the size and thickness of a quarter with the center hole large enough for the small portion of the seal set screw to go into. Place it under the seal and tighten the set screw down. Since the set screw has a ledge on it, and the seal is counter sunk to fit this, raising the seal with that washer allows the screw to go deeper into the seal, and that screw “ledge” (you’ll understand what I mean once you see that screw) will go down a little into the non countersunk part of the seal causing the head of the piston seal to expand slightly. Don’t over do it. Go in a little at a time and manually test the seal in the gun  (hold a finger over the port while forcing the piston up, good seal, you’ll know but if air still leaking past, it will go up easily and thus will need you to tighten the screw in a little deeper along with another retest).

If you have any experience with tuning these, I can also tell you where you can get a seal that with minor mods will work for under $8, but ONLY if you’ve played with a few rebuilds first.