Truth in advertising, RS2 in 22 and 177

[70GTvert]

For any non believers out there, here are those proverbial 1000 word pics. First, let me preface this with the acknowledgement these are NOT off the shelf figures, but darn near. All that was done was a dis assembly, tiding up the spring ends and any potential burrs (darn few) then putting it together with JM lubes. Factory piston seal, spring, guides, NO aftermarket or replacement parts whatsoever. First group of five are for the .177 version, the next 3 are the .22. Got tired of resizing and turning into Jpegs, but it gives you and idea. These numbers are after about 800-1000 rounds passing through after the above re-lube and an outside temp of 54.

Keep in mind, these are mid weight pellets and Beeman claims 1000 in 177 and 765 in 22 with the dual barrel gun, which these are, or 800 in 22 with the 22 dedicated gun. Sure beats claims of 1000-1200 that are only in ultra light weight pellets that can't hit anything or that, with the type of pellet shown and used here, only give mid to high 800's.

[Gene_SC]

Those numbers are realistic for the Titan, Beeman, TF-89 and many others that are made under different names etc. And again I have to add tat the .22 versions do push the 800 fps mark with Gamo Hunters. My TF-89 pushes hunters to over 800 fps. These air rifles are great shooters for the money especially the Titan.. Only problem the Titan only comes in a .177..

[70GTvert]

So see Gene, now those that want it in 22 will know were to go. And if they get the dedicated 22 version, it should do better!

[Bentong]

Did you refinish your beeman stock? Looksssssss glossy

[Gene_SC]

Ya John there are many brands of this power plant and trigger available in both .177 and .22. My first one was the Beeman GH-950 .22 and after that I found the other models with the same powerplant and trigger. These are exception air rifles. They really come to life after a good tune.

[70GTvert]

Me or Gene?  If me, yes and no. I never stripped the old finish off, just enhanced what was there. I took some light steel wool and scuffed up the surface then de-greased it before hitting it with a couple of coats of clear polyurethane (you could use the satin and it would look more like Genes and would also do away with the steps that follow). The factory finish although nice, had some spots where it showed clear was sprayed over dried clear, and it left a haze there. Being one who paints his own cars, this was a sore spot for me even if others may never have noticed. After the clear dried, I finished it he same way you do a clear coat on a car, some 600 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit and finally 1500 grit (it is not as bad as it may sound, it moves along quickly) After that I used my buffer and some Meguiars #3 and #7.

[Bentong]

70GTvert - 2/27/2009  12:08 PM

Me or Gene?  If me, yes and no. I never stripped the old finish off, just enhanced what was there. I took some light steel wool and scuffed up the surface then de-greased it before hitting it with a couple of coats of clear polyurethane (you could use the satin and it would look more like Genes and would also do away with the steps that follow). The factory finish although nice, had some spots where it showed clear was sprayed over dried clear, and it left a haze there. Being one who paints his own cars, this was a sore spot for me even if others may never have noticed. After the clear dried, I finished it he same way you do a clear coat on a car, some 600 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit and finally 1500 grit (it is not as bad as it may sound, it moves along quickly) After that I used my buffer and some Meguiars #3 and #7.

I was thinking on applying poly on my RS2 but after reading the instruction on it need to prep (sanding or 000steelwool) or de-grease the stock. I read that min. alcohol at most time crack the wood due to it's rapid evaporation. From your point what's good de-greaser, you see I applied minwax finish wax and poly will not adhere to the finish with the wax residue. Thanks for your very useful posts. :emoticon:

[leftcoast1]

Easyoff oven cleaner works very well. It takes a couple treatments but works very well. After it soaks for a bit take a small bucket or bowl of water and some bronze wool or even a greenie meanie and scrub the stock till the coating is of then you can sand it and refinish it.

[70GTvert]

Easy off can also strip paint, and is perfect for doing so on plastic as it won't hurt plastic. (click the www link at the bottom of the page, and on page two are some plastic models I used that easy off trick on).  I had some left over from car painting that I got at a local N.A.P.A. and is simply called wax and grease remover. It is used prior to painting cars, but I could not see why not on this. Worked fine. It has the number 3056 on it and comes in a rather generic looking gallon can. I just used simple Min-Wax polyurethane I got at a local home depot, could not justify dirtying up my cup gun. It had a fine orange peel texture that was remove via the sanding steps noted above. Also, that sandpaper is wet/dry type you can also get a NAPA or someplace similar. Keep in mind you do not want to remove 100% of the orange peel with the coarsest grit, but to gradually remove it as you progress through each finer step. You only want to remove the minimum needed. If you cut through to the old finish, you will have to re coat 72 hours later.

[70GTvert]

Opps, did not read the earlier post all the way. Were you looking to strip the paint? If so, the Easy Off is one option. As noted, I did not, I used and enhanced what was there as it was not too bad to start with, thus only scuffing the existing finish and the need for wax/grease remover. If your stripping it back to bare wood, you don't need the wax/grease remover.

[fnash]

How is the firing cycle of the RS2?  Is it pretty rough?  Is it accurate? Sometimes these 1000 are hellish to shoot.... Frank..

[70GTvert]

In .22, it is one smooth baby. I can hit pop cans @ 60 yards standing off hand, although getting any kind of grouping is not possible. From my crouching rest, I can with the same .22, nail inside a 50 cent piece @ 60 yards with ease (as you can see, I like longer ranges). The cycle is so smooth that I mounted a “trouble” scope on it, one that kept loosing it’s adjustment on my Big Cat, and have had no problems.

The .177 is nearly as accurate, but not quite. It can @ 60 yards hit inside a 2-1/2 in circle. It has a harsher shooting cycle, but again, not as bad as the Big Cat. I will say this, it does have a habit of loosening the barrel set screw, thus the use of Loc Tite and my having 2 of them, so I can have each dedicated to a different caliber.

Biggest drawback is if you want a lighter gun. It seems nearly twice as heavy as the Big Cat or Quest, but those are each rather light. I don’t mind. Cocking is heavier than either of those other two as well, but again, not that big of a deal.

[billharmon2]

I also have a pair of these guns. I have just put the .177 back to gether after a lube tune. The .177 definitely has a harsher firing cycle. I am going to try taking some weight of the top hat. I think this might smooth it up some.