I got this information from Mike T. over at TKO brakes. As mentioned above, I followed these instructions with very good results for both loading pellets and accuracy. Wanted to provide the details that Mike provided and also indicate that I used 600grit, not 400grit.
RE: The barrel lead in.
The lead-in to the bore of the barrel contains a short taper, the port were air enters the barrel and the beginning of the rifling. That area should be smoothed out so there isn't any pellet deformation when loaded. The bolt should slide in smoothly without any catching when the pellet enters the bore and engages the rifling. The #1 detriment to accuracy is if the pellet skirt is damaged on loading. You would need a small lathe or drill press to do a quick, perfect job, but you can roll up some 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper (used for automotive finishing) and make a tight cone out of it and using a twisting motion, polish the bore lead-in. You need to make a slow-tapered cone so it will enter the breech end of the barrel about 1/2". You would need to make 5-6 of the sandpaper cones and work at it for 30 minutes or so. That fine grit paper won't remove much metal, but will smooth out the area and make loading smooth as glass.