Help me De-tune a Beeman RS1

[Gopher]

No problem at all. That's why I posted the photos, so we would all be on the same page. There seems to be so many copies and variants that there was bound to be confusion at some point. I know that I'd have to drill out the third hole. My machinist friend is going to do that so it is exactly in line with the other holes. (that is if the trigger assy fits in the first place). If it doesn't fit or seem possible, I'm going to shorten the spring and take as much of the preload out as I can without having it rattle around. With a weaker spring, it has to be easier to shoot just by having less pressure on the trigger. Having just purchased a B-26 and B-25, I really need something low power to shoot in the yard at 10M because the 25 & 26 are destroying my pellet trap at that distance.
I'll keep updating until I'm done.
Thanks again for the advice and support.

[Bogey]

Gopher,  I have read your post and while I cannot give advice to help you, your comment regarding variants seems to be right on the money.
I have an RS-2 branded rifle and it bears no, I repeat, NO likeness to your photos as posted.   I was quite surpised when viewing the photos.  As an example my rifle has a solid trigger blade and an entirely different assembly of the housing area.  And the interior view of the backend that you have  is different compared with my rifle.

I  thought the rs-1 and the rs-2  would be more similar in design.

[roix06]

I understand  gopher, but still I feel bad about steering you in the wrong direction.  You know where you will run into problems is with the inside diameter of your tube, like I said mine is right at 1 inch (measured with a scale, so it could be + or - a 64th of an inch).  That is what size thin walled (but strong) pipe or tube I have been looking for to modify into an adapter to tear down my Titan.

I too am a machinist gopher.  Your slot, where the trigger goes into the tube looks a little shorter than mine also and the smaller diameter, of your tube, will make the trigger assy hang down further into the stock.  If you can even get the trigger housing pushed in far enough to line up with your holes.  If I remember right there is only 1/8th, maybe 5/16th's of an inch clearance between the top of my trigger housing and the 1 inch tube.  With your tube being only 5/8ths of an inch it will be Very tight.

I have pics but they aren't mine and wouldn't use them without permission.  They are Genes.

I mean No offense Gopher, just trying to help.

Roy
N. Ca
Unknown Chinese Underlever .177cal; Unknown Chinese Youth-Sized Breakbarrel (w/Thumb release to disengage chisel latch on breech end .22 cal; Hammerli Titan w/Leapers 3-9x32 full-size MilDot Scope .177 cal.;
Hammerli Titan Custom built & Tuned by Gene_SC & CDT .177 cal.A very smooth shooter!!!; QB-57 2 pc Rifle in Hard Case w/Walther 4x32 Scope .177 cal.(markings on scope say "Hammerli"); 2 Gamo PT-80 Pistols.177 cal., one needs CO2 cartridge Tip Seal, 2nd one works great!!; Walther CP99 CO2 .177 cal. Pistol another Great Plinker; Walther CP88 CO2 Pistol .177cal. "Cream of the crop in my pistols collection"; Beeman P17/Marksman 2004 One-Pump Pneumatic.177 cal. Very accurate;Crosman 2240 Carbine w/ 17" .177 cal.barrel Built from the bottom up with spare parts by Mike N., 1/2" @ 20yds;Tech Force® S2-1X Air Pistol .177 cal. makes a good "Soft Mallet" if nothing else!!

[Gopher]

No, You're more correct than you think. I made a mistake in measuring, but I couldn't correct my post.
See the RS 1 album for the correct measurements and spring information. When the new trigger and seal arrive, I'll get started.
The tube is 1" like yours.
Until then, I'm working on making a spring removal tool as shown in another post since these RS models are different than most.

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?msg=update&albumid=120

-Gopher

[Gopher]

Can someone who has a Beeman RS2 or RS3 post a clear picture (or link of one) showing the trigger assy setup like this one.
So I can picture how it's supposed to be.

Thanks

[Gopher]

All the parts finally came in. I had to cut out the body a little and drill the third hole so that the TF-89 trigger would fit.
I aslo added a new seal, custom spring guide and brass top hat in addition to the trigger.
While I was waiting for the parts, I polished up the trigger internals and piston. After putting it all together, I have to say...
It's one smooth shootin piece of iron now. It cocks real smooth and the two stage trigger is real crisp.
It is a long way from the 100 lb. trigger pull I started with. I have to find someone on Long Island who has a chrony.
I'm curious as to what the FPS is now. Regardless of what it is, I'm leaving it alone.
The whole purpose of the de-tune was to get the trigger pull down to an acceptable level. Now that it's as good as my B-26 trigger,
I will shoot it as is and find something else to shoot in the yard.

Being told by more than a few people that the direct sear RS1 was a throw-away, helped me do it to.   :)
There wasn't much to lose and everything to gain.

Thanks everyone for the advice and motivation to try my first mod.

Gopher

[Bentong]

Great post..only proves that success is achieved by finding ways and not excuses on why it's not going to work.

[Lerchy]

Glad it worked out. Looks great.

[roix06]

My hat is off to you and your machinist friend Gopher.  I am glad you stuck it out and ignored the negativity I provided.  LOOKS GREAT.  Sorry for not keeping up with what was going on, but I couldn't find the original post.  I was looking in the wrong section.  BTW I sent you a reply to your PM asking where the original post was, but I have found it.  Have fun with your new shooter.
 
Roy

[Gopher]

I have to say that it was not as hard to do as I thought it would be.

I used a Dremmel Tool to cut forward into the cocking slot about 1/2" and made a channel that would allow the trigger to fit in.
The hardest part was determining were to drill the front pin hole for the TF-89 trigger assembly.
I dry fit the trigger without the spring and grease to find just the right depth to make sure the piston catch would engage deep when cocking.
I had to make sure that it was at the bottom of the piston catch. The last thing I wanted was for it to fire unexpectantly when it was cocked.

Since I had to move the trigger forward, it meant that the spring space was also shorter.
I wound up re-using the old spring because it was straight but 1" shorter than the new spring.
I don't know if the new spring from Beeman was already set or not.
If it wasn't, maybe it would have shortened to the same length as the old spring when set. Until I need to change it, I'll never know.
If I decide to lower the power later, I can cut down the old spring, and I'll still have a spare to bring the power back up later.

All in all, it wasn't an expensive fix. The Tivar plastic spring guide, brass tophat, TF-89 trigger, piston seal, breach seal, and grease came to about $75.
I need to buy a new trigger guard because the new trigger hangs down lower the the old one. I'm hoping the RS2 trigger guard fits.
So, I still have to add that cost.
If I would have re-used the original spring guide and did the shrink tubing fix, the cost would have been about $50.
So, yes as I originally thought, if I sold the RS1 for $50 bucks and added the $75, I could have bought something similar, but
This is soooo much cooler.

If I had to rate the difficulty from 1-5, I would have to rate it a 4. Not that it was hard to do, but that you need an extreme amount of precision
to drill the new pin hole and get the trigger to catch safely. If it caught too shallow, it would hold, but it would be unsafe I think.
Once the hole is drilled, that's basically  it. If you don't get it right, it's over.
While I feel that this mod was done with complete success and safety in mind. I will probably be the only one that will shoot it just
because of that little paranoia streak that I have.