Shadow - Matte Clear Spray Question

[Bob Fairchild]

I was a 'lurker' for a while and followed your Camo job.  I'm really impressed with the success you've had and the outcome.  Somewhere (which I haven't found again) you mentioned the paints you used.  I'm not an artist, so I don't want to try camo, but would like to know the type Matte Clear finish you use and if it is available in aerosol spray cans?  Thanks for any guidance.  Bob

[shadow]

Bob I use the "CREATEX" airbrush brand but if your looking for a rattle can matte clear I would use the "RUST-OLEUM" " brand. I've had great result's with it on other camo project's I've done like my camo hut for the " Ding Donger" motion senser, camo gun racks etc. I've tried the "KRYLON" brand but wasn't happy with it. As with using any paint types try to use the same brand's to keep them compatible with each other. Ed

[Bob Fairchild]

Ed - Thanks for the quick response, I hope others find it helpful also.  I'm partial to Flat Black MRO (in a can) made by Seymour.  I'll try to see if they make a matte clear and if not I'll try the Rustoleum.  I'll let you know how it works out and do a post after I'm finished.  Thanks again and ain't GTA great!

[shadow]

Happy to help Bob and you might try the flat black in the brand you mentioned and try the Matte clear of RUST-OLEUM , you can mix certain brand's with good result's. Do a test piece first, if you get no wrinkling or peeling within several minutes you should be ok. Ed

[Bob Fairchild]

Thanks for the new advice - I usually get that wrinkling and peeling after I ride the Harley without the do rag.  It might be fun to watch something else wrinkle and peel.  In fact, that might be a great new finish to do everything in, That way I could match the gun.  Bob

[shadow]

LOL ...they do have a paint finish that does just that on purpose . I'm working on a camo idea that uses textured color paint right now, will see how it turns out. Ed

[airiscool]

Ed,
Yes they do ..... and  it's called "wrinkle paint" of all things (don't laugh guys).

It was used on early auto radio equipment, starter motors and generators.

'Illinois Bronze' is one brand I use (their #333 "British Brown" chocolate brown)  when restoring Owen Dyneto starter motors and generators.  

Or any autoparts stores that carry the' Plasti-kote' brand (#217 Black).

I've only seen it in the black and brown, do you know of any other colors ?

I've never tried to recoat it, so I can't say if it's top-coat sensative or not.  I'm interested to see how yours turns out.

Paul.

[Bob Fairchild]

aha!  I knew there was someone else out there with an idea on how I could get more wrinkled and peeled.  Right now I have a semi mess from using Krylon.  The textured approach may be an idea whose time has come - at least for this one stock.  We'll see how badly it turns out after a bit of sanding and repaint, then maybe texture just for fun.  This one is just for practice anyway since I plan to cut into it and try an adjustable cheek piece.  Texture, hummm?  Bob

[airiscool]

Bob,

I'm with Ed - I hate Krylon. Used to be good stuff 30 years ago, but now it's like spraying colored water.

Paul.

[airiscool]

What about a 'sand finish'

You can get 'painter's sand' at paint stores. While the paints still wet sprinkle it on - shake off the excess. Second coat over it when the first coat blows off. You can even add more sand in successive coats of paint. If done unevenly, it  makes a very 3D finish that is very tough to scratch.

Puts real desert in yer desert camo !  

Paul.

[shadow]

They have the rattle can textured paint that look's like stone etc. and I think that would look great blended into a camo pattern. Ed

[Bob Fairchild]

OK Guys!  I barely got my head wrapped around texture and now you throw in 'sand'.  I like the thought of that even better (of course in flat black since I am not a desert dweller nor did I get to do the storm thing - too old and all).  I've messed with a sand application on a few other things and I like it.  Since I'm doing this for my Whispers - how about just a sand blasted synthetic stock?  I have a small sand blaster that I use on my Harley parts (I'm not a flashy chrome guy).  Anyone tried sand blasting?  Might even do the camo with different grits to lend variety.  Bob

[airiscool]

Bob,

Not a gun stock, but I do sandblasting and bead blasting on delicate parts as part of my business. As you may know already, sand and it's dust travels VERY easily, so  be very careful where and on what you use it.

I wouldn't do any sand on, or near mechanical parts. That would need some very tricky  masking to prevent any posability of sand or dust  getting into the mechanicals, but for a plastic stock with all other parts removed from it...

You can try the paint/sand combo, or light sandblasting just  inside the butt of the stock to see if it's a finish you can live with.

If your gonna sandblast, use several layers of duct tape to mask off any areas you don't want blasted. If it's not what you want, the paint/ sand combo can be cleaned out with mineral sprits and paper towels - followed by a good scrubbing with warm water  with a  bit of dish detergent in it. Then a warm water rinse. Blow dry with compressed air. That way, nothing will show of your test after the gun is back together.

And don't use any harsh solvents on the plastic such as lacquer thinners. They not only melt the surface of many plastics, they can soak into almost al forms of plastics and cause them to swell, possably crack after they dry out.  

Whatever you do, if it involves sand, make absolutly sure to keep all the mechanicals well away from where your working with the sand. And before you re-assemble the gun, make sure to give the stock a good wash, then blow dry with compressed air after your done. Even if you eventually use sand in a painted finish (and especially if you do any sand blasting), it should be thoroughly  washed and blown dry with compressed air after the paint is well dry so that there is no chance of any loose sand or dust left to get in the mechanicals.  

Paul.