B3 Cummins Tool. Model number?

[BumbleShot]

I don't know exactly how old this is.  But any guesses as to the precise model number would be apprecitaed.

It was bought from a Cummins Tool at least 15 years ago.  My cousin gave it to me for quick tune and the South Summit spring.  Thinking of going through it tonight.  I do know the barrel needs a good bending to line up the POI with the sights.  Actually, looking down the barrel, you can see it's curved like a hotdog!

Also, if the original seal is ruined, how bad is the South Summit seal?  Should I treat the new seal with anything?

Which Model B3 is this?

[BumbleShot]

Well I took off the stock and examined the trigger.  The guide I was referring to is immediately the wrong guide... So it is not a B3-2.
http://www.kermitairgunclub.com/airguntips/b3-2/

This model only seems to have 2 pins holding everything in.  One is above the trigger and the other is under and forward of the loading port.

Any idea where a guide might be to tis model B3, or whatever it is?

 

[BumbleShot]

But I have one part left over.  A thin and puckered washer I think was in the minimal trigger group.

Also, the South summit kit seal was not correct.  But it is leather.  The original seal looks like a butyl rubber gasket.

I'll sort this thing out.  The action is sitting in the compressor while I try to remember where this thin puckered washer goes...

[shadow]

That is a older model for sure and you say that the piston seal is a rubber type. Does it pop onto the piston or held on with a screw like the newer B's. If you can can you get pic's of the piston etc. for us, thanks. Ed

[BumbleShot]

The washer I was worried about is actually from the fore stock screws...  Not the trigger.

Yes the seal is held in place by a very polished flat screw.  With a white plastic 4mm washer behind it.  All burred up.  

The piston and seal didn't want to go into the chamber very easily at all.  But heck, it's not a Beeman. I pounded it together.  Not a great policy.

I deburred the lever slot.  Moly'd the outer sleeves.  Tarred the spring.  The spring is canting a lot due to longer length.  I'm not expecting miracles with this project.  Just another 20 years.  

A new seal would have been great. But oh well.  If you notice in the pictures the burring along the cocking slot, this rifle has probably shot 10000 rounds already.  It has beaten the knuckles off my cousin.  I'm just really glad he didn't lose his finger, with all the rat killing stories he told me he used this for!

I got the seal past the lever burrs.  I used white tar on the seal and inner chamber.  Took a little Hulk to get it back in.  I should have deburred those holes more.

Upon reassembly, I screwed up replacing the trigger.  The sear catch missed the group pin.  I have to take it down again tomorrow to fix that.  My wife has been a champ holding the flash light and telling me to rewash my hands with Goop.

I'll see about taking a picture of the seal, but I may have to opt out of that since the assembly is now covered in Spring tar, and moly and I don' want to degrease everthing again.  Man, what a mess the internals were.  Black metallic grease dirt everywhere.

I cleaned the bore out with GooGone.  The bore was very dirty and rusty, but remarkably even.  The last Q-Tip squeaked through the entire length.

This project is just a maintenance go-through.  Wish I could reseal it.  But not critical.  

Cost of original rifle: $15
South summit, $15

My Time in a hobby I love? $0  It's a hobby!

I'm not sure I want to tune my R9 myself!  

[mikeiniowa]

is why a springer should be torn down every once in awhile and cleaned up. The dirt etc. gets into the cocking slot and plays heck with the internals. A canted spring will shoot smoother than a straight one and it hasn't lost any strength...

[BumbleShot]

Believe you me.  I don't want to take the R9 apart myself. Already, I can't make a seal for the B3.  I screwed up the trigger reassembly. And got my hands and living room greased up and full of dirty paper towels...

The canted spring is what it is.  Glad to know it doesn't matter so much.  This old B3 has been around the block and I'm doing my Cousin a favor taking her apart and re-greasing for another 20 years.

I've tuned a Quest and almost a B3 something.  The Quest I took more time to do.  the Quest came out great...

When the funds come, I'd like you, Mike, to do what you did to my R7 to the R9.  Till then I have to snipe the critters with what I got.  I gots a lot!

I'll sort this B3 whatever in the morning over coffee and cartoons.  If I pull the whole works out, I'll get a picture of the tyre rubber seal for y'all.

Neil

[BumbleShot]

I sorted out the trigger issue.  I think it was actually because I was not cocking it hard enough.  A litte more Hulk and it works just fine.

The spring is not smooth yet, but now the rifle can go another 20 years!  BTW, my cousin dated it back to 1985, and he wasn't sure it was new when his father gave it to him.  So the rifle is at least 24 years old!  

Didn;t get pictures of the seal.  I did tighten it a lot which made it quite tight in the chamber, so hopefully this tune will last awhile.

The last thing to do is to bend the barrel so the POI is similar to the POA!

[BumbleShot]

I used a bar clamp to compress the spring.  It wasn't convenient, but it did the job.

You must be careful the rifle doesn't slide off it, but really, it made the job a lot easier to fit the trigger restraining pin in.  My wife supplied some support as well by standing on the rifle and bar when I released the tension.  

I wouldn't use a bar clamp on a rifle you are not willing to stand on and scratch the heck out of.  I'm sure a compressor of better quality could be made from a bar clamp.  Alone, it certainly is not idea.