Older Daystate, FX and other top quality rifles?

[Zzyzx]

In my looking I ran across some articles and posts that mention the Daystate Harrier X. Then some older ones with other models from FX and AirArms, among others.
Any problem buying an older model if it has been taken care of and I am willing to have it checked out by one of the fine folks who do work on them?

The future purchase will definately be a PCP repeater. Would like to have adjustable power but not a necessity. Want it in .177 cal to augment my .22 Cal Blizzard. Older is not a problem if all works well. A stock that needs refinishing is no problem, I can easily do that myself.

So, any problems or specific areas to look at when I start getting serious?

Currently I have been looking at the Cyclone and AA s410 and possibly the FX Revolution. Am not sure on the Revolution as more technical stuff like the blowback semi-auto might be more complex and not last as long or be as trouble free as the other designs. Anyhow, I do plan on getting something very high quality this coming year sometime. All the information I can get will only help the decision process.

[spysir]

PCP's tend to last, we've never worked on the 11 year old Career 707II , I have an AA410EXTRA just about as old and only the bolt probe o-ring has needed replacing. Personally I find "most" pcp's easier to work on than "most"  springers.
On one of the other forums right now is an AA410Exrta for about $675,  seems a great deal to me. There are o-rings inside which will just die from age alone (hasnt happened to me yet) and one of the best tuners I know says you really should replace them every 8-10 years but thats somewhat of a guess.
 Buy used, have fun!

 John

[daved]

There are improvements and changes that the manufacturers throw in on occasion.  For instance, I know Daystate has changed valving recently, and I think they've done it before.  Same goes for FX, I believe.  And look at Air Force, and the early Condor valves.  The AA S4XX guns have gone from bolt action, fixed power, no safety guns to a slick side lever, adjustable power, and now include a safety.  In short, technology improves, and buying older guns CAN mean old technology.  Does it make a difference in how they shoot?  In most cases, probably not.  Maybe slight improvements in air consumption, or a better trigger.  Discontinued models can be hard to get parts for, but then, so can current models.  Most of the guns I've owned have been used, and it's worked out for me.  And you can sure save a chunk of cash over buying the latest and greatest!  Later.

Dave

[Jaymo]

If all you have to do is replace O-rings every 8-10 years, you really can't complain. I wish O-rings in hydraulic systems gave that kind of service. No, I don't. I get paid to replace them when they leak.

BTW John, I'm in the process of stripping my B50 today. It wouldn't cock sometimes and it has some valve lock issues when aired up to 3,000 psi. Sear engagement needed adjusting, hammer needs polishing, and tube needs honing/polishing. The barrel is about 1/4" higher at the muzzle end than it is at the breech. Dunno if it's bent or if the hole in the breech is at an upward angle. Gotta check it with straight edge(mill table/lathe bed) and machinist squares.

I also have to see if I have any brass rod the right diameter to make some bigger transfer ports. Or maybe some Delrin.

Can I replace the brass transfer tube and o-rings with a poly tube, like on Crosman/QBs?

[spysir]

Just checking here, you have seen :
http://www.klickcue.com/air_rifle/b50_51/technical_details_for_adjusting_the_bam_b50_51.pdf
right?
 Not cocking sound like either trigger adjustment or (the one that hung me up one) the stock swelled? You should be able to whip out transfer port no problem, I still use the stock design (but I have a wide variety of sizes) , cut and crown that barrel, the B50/51 is actually one of the best stock barrels around but the crown is awful. "I" have never seen one with valve lock at 3000psi with the stock spring, I have seen the needless screw on top of the hammer hang up (put it in the trash and dont look back). Polish everything and use no lube on hammer. Your trigger should adjust down to 7 ounces and work just fine there.
 a Bam parts picture:

an RWS48/52 parts picture:

and just for kick the B51 stock I use :


 John

[Jaymo]

John, I like that stock of yours. Is that purple heart?
Well, it appears that the barrel is actually at a VERY slight angle. May not be a problem, since the barrel band keeps it in place.
I think the cocking problem is either the stock or the sear adjustment. I seem to recall having this problem before, and after loosening the stock screw it cocked correctly.  I may have to do some inletting. Maybe the front trigger guard screw needs to be shortened a wee bit.

I'm going to polish the hammer, hammer weight, and spring ends. I think it's just not hitting the valve stem hard enough.

Do you recommend honing the inside of the tube, where the hammer slides? Trying to decide If I need to go ahead and make a valve removal tool.

Have you tried using a lighter valve spring to get more power? I want to get 35-40 fpe, if possible, while still maintaining a decent shot count for hunting.

What material did you use for your transfer port?


Yeah, that screw #26(I think) from the top of the hammer is long gone.