Been re-reading the passed posts on these variations, and last week I did a lube tune on the Chinese version for a friend of mine. Now I've worked on a couple of the Turkish rifles, and found that they were alot easier than the Chinese. And to be honest with you,...I deffinately prefer the Hatsan over the ?!?! Chinese.
So here are a few things I came across with the Chinese PL1K. The first thing you can see is that the trigger group utilizes more of a Gamo/Theobin design that drops into the action and is held in place by a forward set cross pin. And where the spring and rear guides usually are positionned behind the trigger unit, the spring and guide isin front of the triggerassembly with the Chinese made rifle.
The 'anti bear trap' devise is similar in design with each other (sliding plate that blocks a tab on the trigger blade to prevent firing), but with the Chinese ABT devise, it has a long 'finger' slide that rolls the saftey on instead of the Turkish trigger that uses the trigger mechanism to 'trip' the safetyhinge rocker arm. The Chinese is more like a 'cam' activated mechanism.
Another thing I found interesting with the Chinesedesign is that the cocking arm is used to push back another thick tab in front of thetrigger groupthat engagesthe sear. Unlike the Turkish (and other brands)design that is set when the piston end engages the sear via a sliding action over the sear.
Now for the 'guts' of the trigger group itself. In a few words,....rough and unrefined!!!!! The design really isn't that bad, but they kinda dropped the ball on the production end of it. If I recall correctly, every component is pressed laminated steel in cluding the direct/piston sear. Only plastic part is the trigger blade.
Here's where things really get interesting. With this particular rifle,....there is no real adjustment in the blade,....and you know why?!?!?!? Because the coarse threaded screw is screwed in from above the blade. You guessed it,...the phillips head of the screw is what comes into first contact with the intermediate sear lever!!!!! WTH?
??Isn't conducive for a smoothtrigger pull at all. But I think this was done to give more mass and contact to the ill fitting intermidiate lever because it appears to be cut tooshort.
The Blade is also and interesting story. Looks like a trigger blade from another model rifle, and sloppily modified at the factory to fitthe PL1K. Almost like they hacked off the rear quarter toallow it the pass the housing unit when pulled! I could also see where it at one time appeared to have TWO adjustment holes in it and one looked tobe filled in with epoxy or plastic type cement.Regardless of the fact,....very very sloppy work in production. The heavy spring attatched to the front of the trigger to a housing bolt doesn't make matters much better!!!!!
Finally comes theallen head intermediate lever spring adjustment bolt in the rear of the trigger group. Guess what,....it's as worthless as the pseudotrigger blade adjustment.Also, if it's backedany, the action would seat correctlywhen re-installing the stock!!!!Pretty much no adjustment when the rifle's all back together.
These are a few differences I've observed in these to similar,...yet very different triggerdesigns. So here's what I did inan effort to lighten the trigger to what I guess you could call a 'sport trigger' pull.
Starting with the blade, I removed the coarse thread screw, tapped out the hole with a 3 mm tap, and ran ashort set screw with a tab endin its place. In retrospect I should have used a screw with out the tab end to get more contact with the intermidiate sear lever. Next I replaced the front blade spring with a weaker (Bic Pen) spring. This helped some, but there's only so much one can do with the rest of it!!!! Next I pulled the allen head of and used a long set screww with a tabbed end. Before I installed it, I removed the lever spring, stretched it out some and cut off about a coil and a half. But in doing this, I also had to drill out the plastic trigger guard hole so the screw would have enough clearance, and makeing it more easy to adjust.
Polished the contacts slightly, but didn't feel it was worth the effort to attempt toreally optimisethe inferior made components.
So if anyone feels like tryingwhat I've done, it will improve the trigger,...but only to an extent. A word of caution, Be very careful with the adjustments. To much either way with both adjustment screws will prohibitthe sear from getting a positive lock and/or won't allow the rifle to be cocked at all.
My final thoughts,......Not worth the effort, and I would choose the Turkish Hatsan made PL1K over the Chinese made one any day of the week!!!!!! The Rifles are close in actual performance,...but the poorly made triggers really ruins an otherwise decent economy shooter. That's my story, tjk
