Repalce Piston Seal (Whisper)

[Uncle J]

I think I may need to replace the piston seal on my whisper, need some advice. I'm building my spring compressor now so I can take it out. The seal is one gene put in so I will just us my micrometer to get the proper size for it, which seal do I order. Also do I clean all the old tar out of the chamber and what do I you use to clean it with, what lubricants will I need and how much do I put on. What do I need to know about taking the trigger assembly out.

Thanks,

Jeff

[djmyers]

Hey o just got done doing that same thing to my hunter on Tuesday. It's pretty easy. I have to threads one is called Molly and black grease the other is leaky seals advice needed. They have the links to the seals you will need and to a step by step with photos on how to break the gun down lube it and reassamble. The seal kits are 50 and come with the seals greas and tuned spring. I just bought another to have as a back up for when something goes wrong. The trigger is easy to get out. There is a c clip on the right side as you are lookin down at the gun with the trigger pointing up at you just remove it and pull the lever off of it the I put the clip back on so the pin dosent slide out. There is also a small spring that connects to the same lever at the front of the trigger assembly that needs to be disconnected from the lever. Once those are done and the and the bolt riight behind the trigger that holds the spring in is removed the whole trigger slides back then lift it out. The bolt holding g your piston in is 10 mm if I recall right.

The steps I took were compress the spring remove the bolt just behind the trigger then slide the pin out pull the spring and guide out then the trigger assebly then the cocking lever that actually moves the piston. It come out the front of the channel tha it slide in, you break the barrel and slide it to the front of the channel and rotate it up and out. Then slide the piston out the back. DEBUR all the whole in the receiver so they don't cut the seal on the way back in. Slide it back together and test fire. Mine shot in he 1190 range for almos 8 shots till all the lube worked out and now it's solid 886 avg with only a 8 fps window. That was with jsb 8.4 gr. Pretty god.

Well good luck and hope this helps.

[Uncle J]

djmyers,

Thanks, sounds easy, you said you had some links, could post them.

Thanks,

Jeff

[djmyers]

Another strand is called home made spring compressor. They are all here in the air gin gate. And the seal for mine was the apex small. And to clean the the inside I took a rag and twisted  it around a long screw driver so the the screw driver could not scratch anything then just twisted it up and down till all was clean.

[djmyers]

http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2006/08/spring-gun-tune-part-13-range-testing.html

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=25782&mid=203897#M203897

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=25718&mid=203397#M203397

here are the links to the strands for ya. I don't know why they keep getting smaller I am doing this from the iPhone.

[longislandhunter]

Hi Jeff,,,,

You said the seal is one that Gene put in.... are you saying that Gene did a  tune on your rifle   If he did then you shouldn't have to worry about deburing anything as Gene would've already done that as well as everything else that needed to be done inside the gun.  All you should have to do is simply pop off the old seal, pop on the new Apex small seal and you're ready to go.  As for the lubes,  you will no doubt have to wipe off the lube near the seal so you can work so all you should really have to do is apply some moly behind the new seal after its in place.  The rest of the lube in the gun will be the lube that Gene used during his tune and I can't see any reason to remove it all and re-lube, I'd just leave it be.  

Anyway, let us know how you make out.....


Jeff

[Gene_SC]

Hi Jeff. you should ckean everything up inside the tube, and clean all the parts up good. Check to make sure thet there is nothing leff in the cracks and crevases. THen start fresh with a lube tune. Use JM lubes only. I would wait before you buy a seal and see how the spring looks as well. If you have been shooting heavies or real light pellets then you may need a spring as well. Just to be on the safe side. Ifyou originally ordered a turbo tune then the spirng guide is made to fit a tarantula spring.Good luck

[Uncle J]

Gene , this is what the spring looks like, not broken but not straight, does it need replaced. Here are some pictures of the seal, a couple of scratches and a little nick. Would this be the seal I need. http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251485/2325552.htm
Been shooting CPHP 7.9 went to JSB 8.4 and RWS 8.3.

Jeff

[Uncle J]

It is a one inch seal. I'm  just not sure which one to order.

[CharlieDaTuna]

In looking at the spring and how badly it is bent and canted, it looks like it was shot using heavy pellets or maybe it had some lube introduced to the compression chamber causing detonation or both. The seal looks like those damaged areas could be burned/hot spots as well  although I really can't see it that well and can't visually or physically inspect it.

[CharlieDaTuna]

If a seal is being fitted to the bore, ten thousandths is far to much and should be just a thousands or so over.

[Uncle J]

Charlie,
I have not been shooting heavy or light pellets, 7.9 to 8.4. When I got the tube cleaned out and looked down in it, it looked burnt near the port. I've cleaned the tube and chamber with denatured alcohol, ordered a new 33 coil tarantula  spring, small apex seal and gamo .995 seal. May need some coaching on putting the moly paste on and how much.

Thanks

Jeff

[Uncle J]

gatonini,

Thanks Gatonini, but I talked to Gene on the phone he had used the 33 coil tarantula spring and used a custom spring guide for it when he tuned it. Good learning experience for me.

Thanks

Jeff

[CaptZippy]

Hey Jeff!
How's it coming with your tune?  
Did you get a new spring?  Which one?  What seal did you order....was it the one you gave the link for?  Very interested in hearing of your experience with your spring compressor (please send pictures) as well as all the lubes, tar, etc..  When you put everything back together, is it smoother? more accurate?....are you ready to do another tune?

Let us know...
Semper Fi
Tom

[Uncle J]

Very pleased with how the tune turned out, I did not have to deburr anything Gene had done that during a previous tune. I cleaned the chamber with denatured alcohol real good. I used small amount of moly paste on just the outside of the seal small amount  on the front and  tail end of the piston, did not lube inside the chamber at all, put moly paste on spring guide and inserted it into the spring, put moly past on top hat and inserted it into spring and on top of top hat. The seal i used was http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251485/2325552.htm the spring was 33 coil Tarantula from the same place http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251488/43410.htm.  I think if I need another seal and spring I will go though another place that sells the guide, top hat, spring, seal, and lubes as a kit for not a lot more than what I paid spring, seal and lubes. This is a target that I shot at 14 yards, as you can see the correct pellet is the final piece in the puzzle when tuning a gun, the RWS 8.3 rocks in this gun now. http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=26198&posts=11&start=1. This is how I rigged my spring compressor http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=25989&posts=3&highlight=spring%20compressor&highlightmode=1#M205510. I'm glad I did it

Good Luck

Jeff