Hawkes scope problems

[thebookdoc]

In order to avoid the droop issues (or barrel bends or anything else) I came up with what I think is the ultimate solution to scope mounting, and it just so happens the hawke mounts are the solution. I use a HM17021 or HM17021s which converts the dovetail to Weaver, but has a vertical adjust. To that I add low Weaver mounts, so the whole acts like a one-piece, even though it is a pair of Weaver rings. You can get a LOT of vertical adjustment, and I've used that setup to solve any vertical issues I've had -- keeping full-range of motion with the turrets so you can use them for what they were intended. The whole thing is about $40, so it is less than the Hawke 1-piece adjustable, and I think it is actually more robust. The same thing made by B-square is at least twice the price...

If you have trouble locating these, I can get them for you as I have a dealer relationship with Hawke. I think they are a great company!

[Gene_SC]

Rich, I do not quite understand. Where are you adjusting the vertical movement. I am looking at the picture on Hawks site and do not see any up and down adjustment.

[thebookdoc]

You can't really see it in the shot they have of the 17021 or 17021s, but the whole center piece on these mounts can move up and down and can be regulated with a screw that comes down from the top. I really want to take some pictures of it to have on my web site, so I should do that for you here...I'll do it tomorrow. It is actually a pretty neat design, and the screws are HEAVY DUTY so everything stays right where you put it. There's a hinge on the right of the 17021 and the left of the 17021s in those pictures that you can barely see. Put the hinge in the front, and screw in the back, and you've got plenty of compensation. These also have a reversible pin that make them work well with raised RWS rails... Hard to believe these go for as little as they do. I like em a ton!

[Gene_SC]

I used a 1 pc. 11mm - Weaver Riser - (BKL 568) adaptor and low weave low mounts on my NPSS and a Hawk 50 mil objective and front of scope sits just over 3/8" above action. A bit to high for my liking. Do you know if your setupwould beany lower?

[clip]

Gene: I'm using a Leapers one-piece high mount. The tube is about an inch above the action with the objective bell approximatly 1/8 inch above the loading port of the TX200.

[thebookdoc]

Clip, the one-piece isn't adjustable vertically, is it?

Gene, the B-square on this page is the same thing as the Hawke -- but the Hawke is way less: http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/B_Square_17021_11mm_to_Weaver_Adapter_Adjustable/601
I'll take some pictures so you can get an idea of the clearance.

[clip]

Negitive, Richard. It's just a one piece mount with non-adjustable rings.

[Gene_SC]

Thanks John and Larry for you input. Will wait for more info..

[SUPERFITTER]

clip
I had the same problem with the Leapers high mount and a 4x16x40mm scope shooting at 15 meters. the center line of the scope and the bore of the rifle is app. 1 7/8" and app. 1/4" gap between the action and the front of the scope. I used a piece of plastic milk gallon as a shim under the rear scope mount. I was then shooting high and could adjust the scope down. At 10 meters I don't know if you can adjust it to hit POA because the scope is mounted so high above the action. I hope this helps you, I have gotten a great deal of information from this site.

Dennis

[clip]

Dennis: I'll give the milk carton a try. I can't seem to find a section of 35MM film negitive around here. Thanks for the idea.

[clip]

It appears that my scope problem has been resolved. I could not find any 35MM film negitave anywhere around the house so I used Dennis's idea about milk carton plastic. I cut a couple of strips from a yogurt container that the wife just finished. It did take two strips before the scope zeroed.  It's now hitting the POI where it's supposed to. Thanks to all you fellas for chiming in with a solution...especially to Gene for reminding me of shimming and to Dennis for the milk carton idea. I knew I'd find an answer here.

[djmyers]

This just answered my question about shimming and prevented a duplicate strand. While shooting yesterday I realized I only have 15 clicks of down left. Will set it back to center then shim the front I beleive. But just to make sure I have this right.

If you hit low shim the BACK to get it hitting higher.

If you shoot high shim th FRONT to bring it down.

Makes sense. Thanks for all the info all.

[spysir]

At 25 how did it do? I have only seen 50+ TX200's and have never seen droop, return the rifle or the scope. or find someone who wants a rare TX WITH droop.
 Shimming isnt all that great an idea (and sure I have done it myself), might be a rather poor idea on a springer, time will tell. No better way to bend a scope tube than shim it then really crank down the screws so it doesnt move on the slipperu surface the shim will create. I sure hope it all works out nice for you for many years to come but I have a funny feeling you may end up revisiting this scope issue, please do let us know how things are in a few thousand shots.

 John

[Magnum]

Based on your explanations. I would have to say its the gun not the scope. I always try to mount my scopes so that the (up down left right) is about centered to where I am shooting this is done via the mount system mild shimming if need be. In your case I believe you have gun with droop and I would agree with John/spysir not a good Idea if overcoming a severe droop condition... due to possible damaging scope.
I would likely try an RWS droop mount  like this  http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=348187 or possible even modify a utg n-460 base mount  from pyramidair with a dremmel? anyway just some ideas.  The TX200 is a great AG, lets know how it goes. Tony.

[thebookdoc]

Here are some pictures of the mount I suggested. I've got a shot here of a 40mm and 50mm objective. The 50mm leaves maybe 1/8th of an inch. The whole setup is $40 or less and it is tremendously flexible. Better than mounts I have bought for $100 and more.