B21 rail RIVETED??

[thebookdoc]

I found a great deal on an old B21, and the owner said the rail was 'off'. I assumed it was screwed on, but apparently it was riveted?? 5 Rivets. Should this be riveted or screwed? If screwed, any suggestions for fixing it? Or am I screwed??

[shadow]

If the rivet hole's go into the compression chamber I'm assuming that they were flush with the ID of the compression chamber, screw's would probably not work. The holes in the tube would need to be threaded and screw's set in but flush with the ID of the chamber. Here's a idea that worked for me on a Magnum airgun I wanted to mount a big scope on my 1250.22 so I scavenged a rail off my Viper mixed up a small batch of JB WELD and applied it to the bottom of the Viper rail. I then slid the rail onto the 1250 dovetail and let it fully dry/hardened. The rail and scope haven't budged a millimeter and you might want to think about doing this to your shooter. Just make sure that the rail is square with the action before it set's up and I would think that it will hold up just fine. Ed

[fisherdude]

The JB Weeld epoxy is probably the easiest way to get it back on - what do you have to loose by trying?  I supose it could even be spot welded or soldered if it is steel.  But if you put your mind to it, there is probably a way it can be riveted back.  To me the tricky part would be grinding down and honing inside the body after it was riveted.

[kiwi]

not a prob....drill the rail and plug weld it...
use a mig so the heat is guick then cool it stright after each weld
to stop heat traveling ...

[thebookdoc]

wow, Kiwi, I don't even understand that! I can break down a rifle and put it together, but I have no idea what to do to weld. Plug weld? Mig? Do you think I can find a service locally that will know what that means?

[thebookdoc]

I think I'll be trying the JB Weld option. The rivets are still there, so that'll help it line up.

Thanks!

[shadow]

That would work great if you can find someone to do the job and do it right as not to distort the compression tube. Ed

[airiscool]

Some additional sugestions.

Oil and epoxies don't play well together. Make sure you wash anywhere the JBweld will contact, with a solvent that leaves no residue. Laquer thinner, or alcohol are good. Keep soaking/wiping until a clean paper towel shows no trace of any dirt/oil being wiped off the parts.

Mask off the reciever up to the edge of where the rail will sit so it will be easy to clean off excess JBweld that may squeeze out of the joint  by just pealing off the masking tape later.

Put a layer of masking tape over the rivet holes inside the reciever so that the JBweld doesn't ozz through them into the reciever.

Epoxies like to "slow creap" - line up the rail with the barrel by using a long straight-edge then tape the rail in place while the JBweld cures.

Paul.

[mjb108]

You may find the following webpage interesting:  http://olympia.fortunecity.com/kickbox/377/sm1kindex.html#very%20top - check the paragraph on the scope rail not quite half-way down the page.

Apparently this was a known issue with the early guns.  Screws and glue were found to be the solution, and Tim at Mac1 may have specific info on a fix.

HTH,

Mike

[thebookdoc]

thanks for the info mjb, I'm looking into it!

[kiwi]

thebookdoc - 4/28/2010  5:35 AM

wow, Kiwi, I don't even understand that! I can break down a rifle and put it together, but I have no idea what to do to weld. Plug weld? Mig? Do you think I can find a service locally that will know what that means?

Ok...
drill 2 or 3 holes in the rail about 6mm dia..
sit it on the gun and weld though the holes
till they are fill of weld...Use a Mig welder because the weld
is faster and you can cool it before the heat travels out past
the rail to stuff up the blue where it can be seen  

Pete