Mike,
To be honest, as this particular airgun is my match FT rifle I have changed the geometry on the unit that is featured above as well as making a new blade. I have altered only one suface on the interior though, for safety's sake.
I played with first and secons stage screws in the plastic triggers with good results. Placing at different locations on the blade where they contact the lever can reduce effort required. I opted for only one screw in the brass trigger as a first and second stage were just not needed.....its that light and crisp now. (brass trigger is much more steady/positive than the plastic trigger, no side wiggle)
I altered about five units in my own guns, took them out to unsafe limits and brought them back again using principles that I now feel are constants. Only one sear surface needs altering, leave all sear edges square not rounded, leave all springs as are, lengthen the blade to give more torque.
I have subsequently modified mates' triggers using the above principles with the exception of replacing the blade as it takes a time commitment to make the blade by hand I have not got to give. It has given them back their rifles with great trigger results, although I want to push the trigger blade design more than the sear alteration, and get the same results for a "drop in" custom replacement part.
Recommending the sear alteration mod has its perils as you would know, safety and parts availability being one, and liability being another.
I truly believe a GRT type blade replacement could do the trick somewhere down the line,.....Bob says no,....and fair enough he knows what cost and effort has to go into developing it.
In the meantime I would encourage any who want to try a custom brass blade to give it a go. Flat blade is the way to go.......
cheers GS
