Making a stock for the S1K

[Rixtrix]

The stock blank from my Dad arrived to day. Looks like a hard,  dense grained piece of lumber. Only thing is that it's a quarter-sawn piece, fo the grain goes perpendicular to the way you normally see it in a stock. Research into this type of woodcut says it's stronger with less tendency to split, crack or warp. The guy that cut it from the log is a furniture maker and they supposedly prefer this cut.

Anyone have any experience making a stock from this type of cut? Thanks!

Ric G

[DanoInTx]

Don't worry about it too much.  There are odd cut stock blanks also.  Just layout, cut, go slow, cut, shoulder, go slow, and enjoy the wood!  I can spend hours just sanding a small area, of using a rifler file to find the "feel" I want.  I don't even care if it's alwful when I'm done, it's the time involved that I find relaxing.....need to order some wood while I'm thinking about it:)

[Rixtrix]

That's, right on , Dano.I guess that's mostly why I make most of my own stuff for shooting( besides being longer on time than coin).

Ric G

[Splash]

Ric, I think you will be ok with that blank, because the grain appears to be running the lenght of the piece. You might want to let that small not be on the waste side of the forearm, or if doing a thumbhole it may be in the right spot for it. I haven't started my S1K stock yet, but the easiest way I can come up with to drill the forearm screw holes. Would be to clamp a small piece of wood to your fac stock, flush and square to the top, then drill a smaller than needed hole from the inside out, at the correct angle. That seemed like the best way I could come up with, to be able to use hand tools. Then after the action is all inlet and the top of the blank squared, you have a gauge block to clamp on and get the holes in the right spot and correct angle. When inleting and shaping just go slow and remove alittle at a time, it's alot easier to remove than replace. I hope some of this helps and makes sence.
Mike

[Rixtrix]

Thanks, Mike. got some other advice that said with the quartersawn blank, it might be a little weak through the wrist of the grip, but a dowel or tenon installed in this area would tie the butt to the foregripstrong enough o alleviate any worries of cracking behind the action. Another guy said a thumbhole could cause hold problems, actually he's a friend of mine, but I barely touch the grip when shooting anyway, just laying my thumb on top or to the right side a little with my fingertip against the grip. Will build a practice blank to play with and maybe try some fancy sculpturing around the grip area to fit my style. Was thinking of getting some long bolts to screw into the action holes and put my digital protractor on to measure the angles, but, like you suggested, fitting a block to the front to gage the angle would be simple. Could even fit a block to the stock to make it as thick as the blank, then clamp 2 more blocks and drill through all. Then could clamp the outer blocks to the blank and presto. instant angle gages.If I get enough ideas, I might even be able to make something functional AND good looking! Thanks!

Ric G

[shadow]

Is it done yet Ric LOL. Ed

[Rixtrix]

Months, Ed, Months!

Ric G

[shadow]

Yup, takes some time to carve em out Ric. Good luck and can't wait for a update. Ed

[DAMAGE]

That slab looks fine to me  as for weakness bla bla bla don't stress about it but if it does play on ya mind just make it a little thicker in that spot simple you'll be fine, Cant wait to see it M8 and remember measure twice cut once dont rush it cause it ain't a race.

[Splash]

Hey Ric, just wondering how your coming with your stock. If you read my thread "Looking for ideas" I tell how to make a simple jig for drilling the forearm screw holes. I will take a pic of it soon along with a stock that I am working on and post it.
Mike

[Randino]

Hi, I was just wondering, have any plans for your Shadow's synthetic stock? I'm looking for a rubber but plate for my Hunter 220, so if you don't need it, let me know :) If you need it, No problem. Thanks, Randy

[Splash]

Randy, I will probably end up using this 1, not sure yet. Wally world has a slip on type,cheap, that the slip on part could be cut off real easy and attatched with screws, or glue. You could even cut a peice of white,or black 1/8" thick plastic to go between the pad and the butt. It ends up looking good when finished.
Mike

[Gene_SC]

Nice piece of nature you have there Ric..:) Like everyone else here, I can't wait to see it when you are done.

Gene

[Randino]

That doesn't sound too hard to make. Just looking to see if I can find one before I dive into making one.