That information for the most part in my opinion is incorrect.
First of all, in the RWS guns, it makes absolutely no difference if it is a 350 Super Magnum or any of the other RWS guns. They all use the same two basic seals except for a couple of the lower guns and the seal composition is the same in all of them and the compression tube is of the same basic material and that is all that matters. You do not use silicone oil in a magnum compression chamber or any other synthetic seal chamber for that matter. And the RWS's are for the most part lubed in the same identical way (there are different lubing procedures in other areas between break barrels and side cockers) and are in fact made from the same material that JM's Apex seal is made of and why they last so long. In addition, they have in some part, their own lubricating properties. So no, there is no exception for Magnum springers. They are no different than most other springers in that respect.
You are right in saying that you need a very small amount lube (but not silicone) to mix with the air and create a small dieseling effect to increasing the power and velocity. But that's not just in the RWS-350 or any other magnum. That is an essential process for any mid to high power springer (and designed into it) no matter what gun it is, and applies for the most part to just springers. But it is a controlled release and detonation by design and there is a standard tuning procedure that is followed to accomplish it more efficiently although it is also part of the manufacturing process.
Springers should never be lubed (especially using silicone) though the port and there is no need to if properly lubed whether it's 3,000 shots or 30,000 shots (if the spring holds out that long). The seal should receive its lubing properties from behind the seal and not in front of it. If you stop and think about it, unlike a leather seal, lubing from the port is ridiculous because in a matter of a few shots it has all burned away and has no lubing value anyhow. All it can do in that period of time is possibly induce stress on the spring and cause seal damage. And then, depending on what 2 or 3 drops consists of, the damage can be severe.
The only time that I ever use silicone on a seal is during final assembly and then only on the seal retaining edges and piston seat and the outer rim and that is only for seating purposes and protection during assembly only. And it is never used in the compression chamber. The compression chamber wall and seal lubrication should be a moly based lube. In fact, JM states that on his web site in regards to the seals that he markets and should be applied in a certain manner.
The only time a seal needs attention usually is when it starts squeaking during the cocking cycle. If the seal does start squeaking during the cocking cycle, there is a lubing procedure to correct it but it's definitely not through the port.
How's come all of a sudden I feel like I'm talking myself out of business...lol
Now then, with that said, this is based on many years experience with well over a thousand guns passing over the bench as well as being tutored by some of the great old timers and maybe just my opinion and logic. I share a lot with almost every body and you take from it what you will and throw the rest out if you like.That's what I do....lol...
