Hi again, some more questions. Barrel lock up, and set springs.

The lock up of my barrel feels way too loose.  It takes little effort to unlock it.  After the barrel is cocked and replaced, the shock of setting it down a little more than gently on a rest is enough to open the barrel.  Are all the shadows like this or is there something wrong with mine.  If there is something wrong, how would I fix it?  I read somewhere that I could remove the stop block thing that holds the barrel closed, and replace the spring behind it with a stronger one, but don't know if this is the right thing to do.

Also, the kit I ordered from Rich has a spring that was pre-set.  I read on CDT's website that its not a good idea to set springs.  I think Rich specializes in Gamo stuff and I asked him to include the parts for a s1k.  Is it bad that the spring is pre-set?  Thanks

Oh, also is it bad to shoot a gun with a broken spring?  I've been shooting it for the past few days with the broken spring.  Am I hurting the gun or is it ok to continue shooting 'till my kit arives.  Thanks guys!

One last thing, I think I am going to buy a CDT trigger if my tune up works out, but I don't like the gold color of the trigger.  Is there anything I can do about that or should I just adapt and learn to love it?  I emailed Charlie and am waiting for a response.  Thanks

Heres a link to pics of my gun and shooting area if anyones interested.  http://www.network54.com/Forum/479035/message/1193711895/Update+pictures

Yikes!  I'll take it my barrel lock up is not normal.
Would pictures of the seal and breech area help determine the issue?
Thanks

[vinceb]

... and no, Gamo's shouldn't pop open that easily. Does it seem to have any barrel droop? When you sight down the side of the gun, is the barrel straight in line with the compression tube, or is it pointing down?

I wouldn't shoot it with a  broken spring. Fair chance it's not gonna hurt anything, but if a little chip of hardened steel gets knocked off the spring it could start gouging things. Better safe than sorry.

Setting the spring really doesn't do anything except make it easier to install the first time. Some Maccari springs come pre-set, and as he points out a spring gets set the first time a gun is cocked. All that happens is that the spring gets stressed slightly beyond the yield point, and it winds up a bit shorter.

As for the trigger, give Rich's insert a try (since you're getting it anyway)... especially if you prefer the look of the stock trigger. You just might find that it does what you want.

The barrel looks strait in line with the compression chamber, but there is a little play in the lock up.  It can be bent down just slightly where it is still in contact with the detent thing but definetilly not strait, if that makes sense.

[vinceb]

Offhand, it sounds like the detent spring is weak.

Thats what I was thinking too, but heck, I'm new to this.  The seal 'looks' normal to my eyes.  Anyway the accuracy seems to be ok, as long as I gently put the rifle down on its rest.

Anyone know how to take out the detent block thing and what type of spring I could replace the stock one with?  Thanks.

[vinceb]

I think that you merely have to drive out the pivot bushing after removing the barrel. That's the way the Crosman Quest works. As for a replacement spring, a Quest might fit.

I'll try to pop a Gamo apart tomorrow to make sure that the above is correct.

Thanks a lot.  I haven't taken apart my s1k yet, not until my kit comes in.  Once I do, I'll be able to give more detailed information about my situation.

[vinceb]

While I've only done it a few times, I've NEVER been able to take the pivot bolt out of a Gamo without using an impact driver like this:

http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,369.htm

With one of these, it's a piece of cake.

[Gene_SC]

Do not use the Cummins impact  driver.... The blades are to soft and bend. Also will mess up your slot in the pivot screw. Buy a better quality impact driver. I once had a S1K which had a poorly aligned lock up pin in action and removed the barrel from the breech block. It was impossible to repair after I got it appart and saw what the problem was. Just thought I would add my experience with the Cummins impact driver that I used..  I had to find a good one to finish the job and ended up at Sears to purchase one that the blades were hardened and would not bend or break under impact.

My two cents worth..

Gene

[DanoInTx]

I must have "mechanics hands", I did a barrel/breach block swap on two Gamo 220's.  Made one a .22 and made the other a .177 in a trade with another airgunner.  They ARE a real beast to break loose though.  I used a large Snap-On screw driver with the hex area at the handle.  Slapped a box end wrench onto the hex area and just did a lot of leaning and muscling.  It did come loose though with a good bit of shoulder strength behind it and with no damage to either the block screw or my screw driver.  I think they use blue loctite on those from the factory IIRC, a little heat may help.

[CharlieDaTuna]

As Gene said, you do not want to use a Cummins impact driver or any other cheap impact driver as it will do two things.... damage the head of the screw and shear off the head of the blade. Also, you must be careful just how you drive the impact driver as you can very easily damage/spread the yoke. And Gamo does not use Blue LocTite at this point but another thread locking material far stronger than even Red LocTite.

Briefly..... you do not need to remove the barrel from the gun but you do need to separate the barrel and yoke assembly from the action. DO NOT JUST DRIVE OUT THE BUSHING.  The exception here is if you have made a fitted soft brass driver, Delrin or maybe even a wooden dowel. The tolerances here are very close and you may damage the pivot bushing or cause a bur on it. There is no room for error here  to file or grind the surfaces.

 After it has been separated, depress the locking lug enough to relieve the pressure on the pivot bushing and just push it out. with something relatively soft. You can polish the inner and outer surface of the bushing as well as the shoulder of the pivot bolt shoulder with  #000 or #0000 steel wool. Be sure to then clean thoroughly before reinstalling. When reassembling, be sure that the lug is properly aligned and centered to  permit the pivot bushing to pass through.

I use Clear Tar at this point for lubing but if you don't have that available, you can use  moly paste on the spring, the outside of the bushing and lube the shoulder of the pivot bolt. Do not lube the bolt threads. Do not put any lube on the inside of the bushing.

I am getting worried about the condition of my gun.  

There seem to be so many things wrong with it!  I noticed something else today, that I had seen in the past but didn't think much of before.  When looking down the barrel from the breech side, you can see a small black dot looking thing on one side.  The bottom left side to be exact.  It is at the end of the barrel, near the muzzle.  I thought I'd see if my pellets were being affected by that, so I got a big plastic bottle, filled it with water and shot a shot into it.  I recovered the pellet and to my dismay, one side, maybe a 16th of the pellet, was flat.  There were rifling marks, then a flat spot, and back to rifling marks.

 Man, I feel like sending my gun back to Gamo and asking them to just replace the whole gun, but I don't want to wait another 4 weeks.  Also, my barrel got a little scratched up when I installed the Rich in Mich barrel shroud, so I don't even know if they would accept it.  I'm emailing them now to see if they would, but I really don't want to pay another 35$ for shipping and wait 4 weeks!  Ahh enough off me ranting.  Oh, and I had just ordered the 70$ tune kit

[DanoInTx]

Good to know about the "not blue loctite", I honestly couldn't remember, but I knew there was something there.  I do however remember thinking,"Man these are tough to take out".  Thanks for the memories.   Now I think I'll try to forget them:)

[DanoInTx]

It really sounds like the gun may need to go back to Gamo.  If it's not out of warranty this is the time to send it.....before you take it apart and void the warranty.  Just my $0.02