seeking clarification on seal/compression chamber lube

Hi all,


I am getting ready to do my first tune job on a RWS model 36.  I have ordered the spring kit, apex seal, and lube assorment from Jim.  I notice on his site he says to lube the seal with moly.  I also found an 11 page on-line tutorial that clearly shows moly liberally applied to the seal.  On the other hand, CDT advises a rather different way of doing things, one that makes a lot more sense to me, as moly paste is actually somewhat abrasive and does contain pertroleum products (IIRC).

So needless to say I am a little confused.  If I could afford it I'd certainly send the 34 to CDT and rest assured that things would be done properly but that simply isn't an option now.

So I guess my real question is, are both methods valid?  Or is one clearly wrong and possibly harmfull to my gun?  Perhaps times have changed and moly on the seal and compression chamber was considered proper in the past but experience has now determined otherwise?

Now please understand gentlemen, I am not looking to discredit anyone nor steal trade secrets.  I am just someone with a lot of family problems/obligations/bills that finds my pellet gun one of the few joys I have in life to keep me sane during these trying times.  I really can't afford to make a mistake.  So if anyone can find it in their heart to offer some sage advice I'd be much obliged.  If this is a question best answered in private my email is Rbrunt(at)mercymiami(dot)org.  Just don't mention "guns" in the subject header as work will block it.

Thanks in advance
Russ

[CharlieDaTuna]

Quick and simple.  They are both right. It's a matter of preferrence really but I do have my reasons for using silicone on the seal rather than the moly paste. I do use the moly behind the seal though.

You know how it is, when you see conflicting info from two respected sources it does make you wonder.

A product you might be interested in is Loctite #51048, a 65% moly paste.  PDF data sheet is at:
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/MOLYP-EN.PDF

Thanks again and I'll try not to ask too many questions.  Now if I was only brave enough to tear into the trigger!  It is crisp, with very little creep, but must be at least 6 pounds.  I will try soaking In Gene's sauce before I break out the arkansas stone and ball point pen spring collection.  I take it your trigger won't fit the Diana 36?



Russ

[CharlieDaTuna]

I'm assuming that you mean the GRT in an RWS-36.  No, it will not work in it.

[daved]

Hey, Russ, is that 34/36 a newer model?  Specifically, does it have the TO 5 trigger? Just one adjustment screw?   Reason I ask is you should be able to adjust it a lot lighter than that.  When I had my 350, the trigger was at max pull weight out of the box, and the adjustment screw was REALLY tight.  I was afraid I was going to break something before it finally broke loose.  Don't remember which direction is which, but by turning the screw, you will simultaneously lengthen the first stage and lighten the second.  Be careful, you can adjust out all the second stage, and then you have a very long, light single stage trigger that's hard to tell when it will break.  Also, the adjustment can shift.  I could get my 350 where I wanted it for 5 or 6 shots, then the second stage would go away.  I'd suggest adjusting to no second stage, then turning it back 1/4 to 12/ turn.  That should give you a nice consistent trigger well under 2 lbs.  If it's a TO 1, you'll have to look elsewhere for info, I think it's considered a better trigger, but I don't know anything else about it.  Good luck!

Dave

The older 2 screw model.  You can adjust lenght of pull for first and second stage but not poundage.  I suppose I have been spoiled by the likes of Jewell and Timney.  My older brother shoots NRA target.  I can hold my own with his pistols but my rifle technique needs work so I have been shooting the RWS 36 a lot more and really paying attention to groups and gun behavior.

I am surprised at the lack of aftermarket trigger options.  I suppose the gun isn't worth one but I think it would make a huge difference in my groups.



Russ

The trigger is removed.  I backed out both screws, cocked the trigger and held the blade down down.  Ran first stage screw all the way in and trigger didn't fire.  Then I brought the second stage screw in until it let off.  Turned second stage in 1/2 turn more as a reasonable compromise.  I'll repeat and see what happens when I get it back together.  Thanks.

How you making out on that 350?  RWS should think about helping with spring torque.  The guns are too nice to be hampered by being so picky/hold-sensitive.  I gotta tell y'all, when it comes to an honest 30-50 yard hunter them dark side PCP's are looking attractive.

No why do I feel like that last comment was a sin?



Russ

[daved]

The 350 was the beginning of the end for me and springers :-).  I sold it, bought an HW 77 specifically for it's reputation for NOT being hold sensitive, and got one that was hold sensitive.  That was the end, I traded it for a Talon SS.  Once I got the Talon, the rest of my springers went away in short order.  Went from 5 springers to one PCP in about 2 months, and couldn't be happier.  By swapping barrels around and making adjustments, I get power levels from 10 fpe to over 100 fpe.  My usual set up has .22 Kodiaks doing 900 to 950 fps.  That gives me 40+ fpe, sub 1/2" groups at 30 yards, and virtually zero recoil.  And a huge boost in confidence, I KNOW I'm going to hit what I shoot at :-)!  I recently added a second PCP, a B50 I got from a fellow forum member.  Still haven't had any time to shoot it much, but I'm looking forward to rectify that situation soon.

Hope your trigger work pays off, keep us posted.  Later.

Dave