spring compressor question.

Hi, I'm going to try and build a spring compressor to deal with my gamo s1k and daisy powerline 1000.  I'm heading towards the design using a C-clamp from the kermit airgun site.  Like the one longislandhunter made, http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=2279&posts=9&highlight=spring%20compressor&highlightmode=1#M13731, but I'm confused as to how the compressor actually works.  Specifically which way the action lays in the compressor and how to get the spring out of the compression tube.  I can cross these bridges once I arrive to them, but I'm just currious right now.  I'll be sure to post some pic's of my spring compressor once and if I finish it.  Thanks

[CHUCKMATLOCK]

I just fininshed one and had the same questions. It helps if the action lays upside down so that the trigger is on the top. That way you can tap the pin out from the side. You also need about 3 or 4 inches to back off so that if the spring is pre loaded quite a bit you can relax it and get it out without having any pressure on it.

[kirby999]

I built one like that Kermit) and because all rifles are not the same length , I put pieces of 2x4 (approx. 6" long) between the end of the barrel and barrel stop on the compressor. I just add more tor less to adjust for length. The C-clamp shaft end is placed at the trigger housing (or end cap depending on model of gun) and you carefully apply pressure, just enough to remove the tension the spring has on the housing. Then you remove what ever pins are holding in the trigger housing (or end cap) ; then you slowly back off on the c-clamp pressure , easing out the trigger housing with spring and guide . With all spring tension removed , take a screw driver into the spring slot and guide the spring out of the tube. The slot can have sharp edges , that's why I'd suggest using a screwdriver. kirby

Thanks for the answers.  I am planning on constructing one this saturday.  I'll let you guys know how it goes.

I  use a carpenters rail / sash clamp with timber in the jaws to protect the metalwork to remove the spring on my diana M52, which is under a lot of pressure uncocked, clamp is fully adjustable for length with regular pin holes for loose jaw and plenty of travel in fixed, worth looking at, it saved me a lot of effort and the expense of real air spring compressors which look much the same

Heh, too late for that.  Luckily it didn't take me too long to build a compressor anyways.  Thanks for the advice though.