Update, my trigger problem is fixed

I contacted Rich and he suggested I remove the plastic spacer which was included in the kit.  I tried that and it did the trick.  I went out for a few shots this morning, no scope, no sights just to test it, and let me tell you.  No twang at all.  Just a "CaTUNT".  The rifle is still dieseling pretty badly, If it doesn't calm down in a while I might have to remove some lubes, maybe I put too much.  Oh well, great to have her back shooting again.  Thanks for all your suggestions too!!!  Really appreciate them.

[Big_Bill]

Hey Josh,

That's great news ! But if the dieseling very hard, it can cause damage in you rifle. What lube did you put into your compression cylinder with the seal ?

Bill

I put some moly around the seal, and some clear in and around the piston.  Both were light coats, at least I thought they were.  I don't have anything to compare the dieseling too, but previously there was 0 dieseling with this rifle.  Now after a shot, I can blow into the barrel and a air amount of smoke comes out.  I also put a bit of spring tar on the spring, more on the guide end than the piston end.

[Big_Bill]

Hey Josh,

I can only tell you what CDT has posted, or the best that I have written in my notes, as I am no Pro in any way,

If you used Clear Tar around your piston seal, that is your problem, you should use 100% Dielectric Grease or Moly Paste in the compression chamber.

I was hoping a tuner with more experience than myself would have stopped in.

[LPC]

you are not suppose to put any kind of lube/grease on the seal, just a smudge of grease on the face of the seal can cause deiseling. everything below the seal can be slap happy greasey. just make sure that before inserting the piston back into tube, the tube must be cleaned of all grease. must be dry.

not just noisy and inaccurate shooting but deiseling will warp even a maccari spring. not to mention burning holes down the side of the piston seal wall that touches the tubes ID surface.

[CharlieDaTuna]

Big Bill is right. You do lube the seal and the piston.

You want the tube to be clean but certainly not dry.  An excellent way to damage or destroy a new seal. :0  The seal would never be lubricated and you would neverdevelope any combustion which is critical to the power that is being developed.  Just keep it behind the seal.  I use 100% Dielectric silicone grease (or you can also use a light film of moly paste) around the outside edge of the seal, and I prelube the compression chamber itself with a very light film of another lube, moly the piston the behind the seal and at the rear of the piston. The secret to a good tune to is both how and where to lube, the type of lube to use in a specific area depending on the gun and how much. As Gene can tell you, I use as many as seven different lubes in a gun. Shut yo mouph Gene  

After a few hundred shots, the dieseling seems to have stopped.  Last I checked, there is no smoke in the barrel after a shot.  On a side note, the gun seems to be a lot more hold sensitive than it was before.  At first I thought the gun didn't like meisters anymore, because they were grouping over an inch at 15 yards, then I tried an ultralight hold, I used to grasp the gun, but I tried to isolate myself from the gun as much as possible and I was stacking pellet upon pellet.  Need to do somore testing to find out the best, most consistant hold for me.