Yep... ya did it the right way Steve, considering that you don't have a lathe and when doing it that way you usually don't go wrong. Just measure 7 times and cut once... and take your time...lol... Believe me... if you want accuracy, this is the one area that you should not take shortcuts or rush.
You can use course valve grinding compound then fine valve grinding compound also. It cuts faster with excellent clean results and although usually not needed, you can still use a pumice or tooth paste to finish it further if need be. As for the tool, I use a push rod from the old days when they were used in the valve train. Almost perfectly true and extremely hard ball surface. If recessing the cut, I usually make it about 15 degrees and about .075 to .100 deep. Just enough to give the crown good protection.
Oh.... and before you start, push a pellet about in about a half inch into the muzzle head first with the skirt facing out. Keeps the crud from getting down into the shoot chute.
I just reworked and put on a 24 inch barrel and did a crown job on my AS-2250. Carried it on over to Gene's and we (he) set up one of my Golden Antler scopes up on it and dialed it in and it stacks them at 20 yards and clover leafs at 35 yards dead center. Talk about accurate. For being cross eyed, that Gene can sure shoot.
