Ok, what can I do to clean up my new RS2 w/o major disassembly?

[SirNomad]

Ok, to clarify, I have no problem with the feel of the trigger, and I don't have a spring compressor so I don't want to mess with THAT. I've read, however, that the grease the Chinese factories use is pretty lousy and that there are better things I can do. The airgun seems to have decent power, but I don't have a chronometer to test that. It's the interchangable barrel model from Wal-Mart (1073) and has the adjustable trigger. I do know that it can make a satisfying ricochet sound when I miss. LOL

[riarcher]

Do you realize that's like asking, "How do I add HP to the car without opening the hood?"
Most anything that will really make a difference is inside.
I have the same rifle. Was near brand new. Only problem was it was noisy (so I thought).
Kept wondering how much difference can a "Tune" really make? I mean it was new from the Beeman plant after all.
Gotta say, until you experience it yourself, you'l not believe the difference it made (at least to mine).
Was money well spent for sure. Would not hesitate to do it again.
Definately came back a totally different air gun.
Almost like Beeman sold me a "Kit Gun" that worked marginally (in comparison).
Gary

[Rolls-Royce]

Without disassembly, there isn't much. But you can check the breech seal and replace it if it looks torn or gouged or isn't protruding slightly above the breech face. Lube the cocking arm pivot area on the breech with a good quality non-detergent oil.  Definitely clean the barrel thoroughly with a patch soaked in GooGone then with dry patches until they come out clean (they'll never be perfectly clean). You want to get any rust or bluing residue out of the bore, along with the preservatives the barrel is treated with before shipping. On mine, although the gun had been lubed at the factory and wasn't dry, I removed the stock and put 5-6 drops of RWS spring cylinder oil onto the mainspring through the cocking slot. This did seem to smooth the gun out a tad, since it had seen almost 2 years of use at this point, and the factory lubes probably aren't the best quality. Don't add *any* oil through the transfer port into the compression chamber, as detonation can and will result.

If your gun is similar to my TF-89 with the two-stage adjustable trigger, the trigger should be cleaned and lubed. Mine was full of dry grease or cosmoline. If you remove the action from the stock to oil the spring, you can also flush out the trigger group with brake cleaner while the action is held right-side-up (don't want to degrease the spring or inside of the receiver tube now, do we?), then sparingly use a good lubricant (NOT WD-40!!) on all the pivot points.

[waunderin]

i bought one of those from walmart, too, i liked it so i bought another. have one in .177 and one in .22, and have mostly been working with the one in .177 so far. getting close to 2000 pellets thru it, and it is starting to break in. i could feel lumps in the barrel when pushing a tight patch thru it, and looking thru the barrel i could see what looked like leading. i got out the lead away patches and did a good barrel scrubing. the lumps smoothed out a lot and the gun started to tighten groops. i noticed, while cleaning, that there was like a rough lip at the  crown of the barrel. i used a cratex rubber abrasive thingy, no power, just by hand, and turned it against the crown. didn't take much, and the rough edge was gone. remenber, i didn't use the motor, just turned it by hand. so far this rifle has been responding well, groups yesterday were going onti a raged hole, finally. didn't have many flyers either. have found the rifle to be kind of hold sensative, but it is getting to the point that i trust it to shoot where i aim, finally.   john

[SirNomad]

I gave up messing with it and sent it to John in PA for a tune, and he did an awesome job. :-) Thanks John! I still want to know more about tuning these beasties, but I might just get some Chinese cheapies.