DIY lube

[moe1942]

Has anyone mixed moly powder with a high flash point oil to form a paste? The powder I have is pure moly and no graphite. Since my Super Streak turned out to be a non shooter I'm going to use it for experimenting. If I can find a suitable medium to mix with the moly I think it would be ideal for the piston and compression chamber area. I also think a moly dry kote film on the spring would work. I don't like the idea of tar or grease on the spring since that area is open.

[3n00n]

There is a reason for that. The reason is that ARH has done the research and testing so the prduct is the most effective available for the price.

`

Spring tar isn't "asphalt", but a blend of adhering lubricant and moly designed to remain on the spring. A one ounce container has lasted me for several dozen springs, and that includes the ones I over did it on, so I had to remove some 'tar' to getthe springto act properly again. Remember that less is better than to much.

`

If you insist on messing with moly, please be careful since molybdenum disulfidehas been known to havesome toxic results.

[SDale]

I've been making my own Moly paste for a while now. I get my Moly Powder from EBay in 1/4 pound containers in the form of 99.9% pure moly milled to 1-10 micron powder. I mix it with Trinity 25 weight 100% Silicone Shock Oil. I also get that from EBay in 2 ounce bottles.


I usually use Half the container of Moly and add Silicone Oil to it until I get a fairly thick grease. I also add a bit of Powdered Graphite.

I don't measure anything, it's all be feel. But if I were to do it by teaspoon the ratio/recipe would read something like this:

2 tsp. Moly Powder
3/4 tsp. Graphite Powder
3.5 tsp. Silicone Oil
Mix well until blended to a consistent paste
Bake at 350 for....OOPS!!! I got to thinkin of cornbread again!!! hehe

[3n00n]

but it'd shore'nuffbe slicker than a fritter

[fisherdude]

It was my understanding that spring tar was actually a commercial product known as open gear lube. It is a common in heavy industry.   Open gear lube is formulated using a petroleum base grease and asphalt. It is a very stick lubricant designed to stay on gears.   If I am wrong about this, someone please educate me.

[3n00n]

I've used alot of gear lube in machine shops I've worked in, and that stuff has slime floating on topwith a very potent 'petrol' smell. The ARH version is rather mild smelling and not slimey at all.

`

It could be a synthetic gear lube, but that stuff is insanely expensive, which might be an evenbetter reason to buy it from ARH in smaller quantities.

[DanoInTx]

I dunno what that stuff is, but it sure is tough to brush off your teeth:)

[3n00n]

but a sammich just shore'nuffain't da same wid'out it

[moe1942]

Well I always have been a maverick. Now that I live on a fixed income and prices are rising faster than the water in Iowa I find that going against the high price of tradition and "how its always been done for decades" is the norm for me..Please excuse me..

I will continue with my research and experimentation now..

[moe1942]

Glad to see others are mavericks also.

I am puzzled by something else though. A friend who is a petroleum engineer says I can use Dow Corning silicone grease as a medium for the moly and only need 1-2% by volume. He said a wee bit of moly goes a long way. I have also seen it said here that silicone in the piston/compression tube area will cause seizeure.

I am a cautious experimentor so I won't rush into this.

 I also read in my research that graphite is not good for what we use it for in air guns. Indicated that it has abrasive properties. The more I read the more confusing it becomes. I have used powdered graphite in doors locks for many years.

I want to calm the fears of one or more here. I plan to use this concoction for my own use and will give it to friends. I do not intend to break decades of tradition or go into competition with those who retail their concoctions..May they live long and prosper.

[moe1942]

Here is the reply from my learned friend. Lubricants are his bread and butter.

Re: Moly mix

-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by moe1942
Ron, I have a sizeable amount of powdered moly. Followed me home when I retired. I would like to make a paste with it to lube air rifle pistons and compression chamber. Can you recommend a suitable medium that withstands high temp and pressure?

I see TS 70 moly but it gets pricey..I'd like to use this free stuff if I can..

Thanks


Moe

I would get a good quality silicone grease, Dow makes several you only need 1-2% of moly in the grease. A little moly goes a very long way.



What I am trying to determine is why the requirement for such a high content moly in air guns other than more is better. As you can see he knows what I intend to use it for. He has always given me good and accurate advice..Maybe I need to ask Paul Harvey..

[CharlieDaTuna]

Spring Tar or Heavy Tar is definitely not open gear lube. Not sure where you heard or read that but it is incorrect. Jim spent a long time developing the "Heavy Tar" that is used today in the airgun industry and is the best formula available. I know most of the ingredients and asphalt is not one of them. If the were a better as well as cheaper product, I would know about it and use it. After all these years of working on and tuning airguns, I have found that there is nothing better and if the lubing is done properly with the right lubes in the right places, a springer can go for years without being lubed again and the life of the gun extended dramatically.

Heavy Tar will reduce the velocity but how it is applied and what geographical area of the country it is used in plays a significant part. The colder the climate, the less needed. The normal loss wouldn't be more the 10-15 fps in most cases.

 Also... using a moly blend or silicone oil  blend of lube on a spring is almost useless, and in fact can be detrimental to not only the spring life but also consistency of the velocity. It has no value regarding the spring vibration or the harmonics created and has little or no dampening effect. Silicone oil is of very little use in a springer airgun with the exception of being used as part of a combination lube used in leather seal guns.

Just my opinion based on many years and guns experience.

[Big_Bill]

Hey Gerit,

Your friend my know what you are using it on, but does he know the insides of an airgun. The forces in play, the heat that builds up inside the compression chamber ? etc. or how long this percentage will last ?

Bob is the MAN when it comes to airguns, and he has years of practice working on them. If he recommends 70% molly, I'm sure he has a reason for it !

If you wish to "experiment", that's O.K., but until you have some success, like 3 - 4 years of faithful service, I'll stick with the advice Bob has so kindly offered to us. :)

Bill

[moe1942]

Being new to this sport I started this thread in order to dialogue and find out what is used, why and where. It wasn't then and it is not now my intent to upset tradition. Tuning and modifying air guns is well within my capability and I will continue to pick  brains as much as I can.  I will come up with my own concoctions after thorough research into the subject. I have always been a maverick and as things progress technically I feel there is always a way to improve or replace. I'll just keep my recipes to myself since I'm the new guy here and don't want to *_*_*_*_*_* everyone off..

If anyone has their own ideas or  thoughts on the subject please PM me. I'm open to anything.. I'll get back with my engineer friend and tell him what Charlie passed on. Maybe he doesn't understand the nature of the action in an air gun.. I questioned the silicone paste myself..

I appreciate all of the input..My speciall thanks to those who have already pm'd me.

The censored word was four letters beginning wit p and ending in s.. Me thinks I should have lurked a tad longer..

[Big_Bill]

My point Gerit, is knowing all the parameters for the use is very important. Improvements happen all the time, that's how we went from leather to synthetic seals ! When CDT responds to a post, he is offering information gained from years of experience and experimentation. I hold that experience dear to me, and would never discount it for someone that is not an experienced Airgun Smith.

You, and anyone are more than welcome to experiment, as I myself and many do ! And your successes will be greatly appreciated. I'm just trying to point out, that he, your friend, may not realise all the crazy parameters that are found in the humble airgun.

I didn't post to put you down, just to point out the variables in the airgun, and how golden Bob's guidance is.

Bill