The B-19 tuning guide that is in the library was an earlier published version and I didn’t realize that it was the one that Gene installed. I don’t know how to manipulate the info there. The later version that is on my website states using 400 grit instead of 220 grit. Early on, I used 220 grit and did not see any problem other than it did cause a little excessive drag and did cause the seal to squeak sometimes initially as well as smoke a bit until it was broken in. I never saw “excessive†wear.
I don’t argue JM’s point, especially if done incorrectly, however, if you read and believe in the guru “Cardewâ€, and I do, cross hatching is essential in promoting the development of the power potential in the springer. To deliver the full potential, you need a small amount of combustion (not detonation) in the compression chamber. This is provided by introducing a very minute amount of lube into the compression chamber. This is enabled by the passage of that lube past the seal. The crosshatching provides this avenue as well as keeps the seal itself lubricated. If done correctly, it provides both increased power and consistency.
If the correct lubes are used, then any wear is practically negated as the lube fills the very fine lines/marks caused by crosshatching allowing the seal to pass over them and at the same time provides access to the needed fuel for combustion.
It’s for this reason; most Pro Tuners do use the cross hatch method of compression chamber preparation.
In addition, this is just one of the reasons that I suggest using the proper lubes in the right locations and that it’s not always a very good idea to stray from using the recommended lubes. But to each his own.
Hope this makes sense.
